EF36IWFSSS1 Dacor Refrigerator - Instructions

Once I took new gaskets out of carton
and put out on patio to warm up I removed old gaskets pressed in new gaskets which made a great seal
Job was easy and took no skill

Pulled the broken pantry door off, and snapped the new door in place. Vry simple.

take the old one out replace with new once - no instructions required, no tools needed

Removed old gasket by carefully pulling it out of the retaining groove. Installed the new gasket starting the corners first and then seating the upper and lower straight portion gently in the retainer groove. Total time for installation was at most 5 minutes. After a week no ice or frost has been found along the bottom of door or freezer. Note: the new gasket came in a small box for shipping purposes and the new gasket was twisted in a v for this purpose. Upon arrival, I laid it out flat on table overnight so it could cool to room temperature and straighten. I would recomend this procedure for a perfect installation.

The replacement part provided was not an exact replacement. The part did not include a water reservoir. Instead, it had a 25 ft long water line that ran from the water filter to the water connection behind the fridge. The long water line was difficult to deal with, did not fit easily into the space provided for the water reservoir, and is coiled up behind my fridge. The part did work, but I'm unhappy with not having the resevoir.

The troubleshooting time takes about 20 to 30 minutes. After checking out the solenoid (valve water), the water line, and the electronic board (emitter/receiver) are working fine. The only thing left is the ice module. I called Partselect and talked to a sale rep to make sure I get the right part, and the lady was so helpful by sendind the picture of the part so I can review before ordering it. I received the part in 3 days ( normal shipping) and did the folowings:
1) Unplugged the power cord from refrigerator.
2) Removed the ice module by removed a 1/4" screw from under the right side of the icemaker that retains the icemaker and a “U” plastic clamp and then pull out the whole unit it from the track.
3) Unplugged the cable connected to the ice maker.
4) Using the phillips screw driver to remove the 3 screws. Carefully pulled out the ice module and installed the new ice module.
5) Put the ice maker back to the freezer, plug the cable back to the ice maker and put the clamp and tighten the nut.
6) Plugged the power cable back to the wall.

The first ice I got in an hour and a full bucket of ice in less than 24 hours. I spent less than $80 for the whole thing. Thank you so much Partselect for the great service and the stories posted, it really helped me to get it done.

Removed old starter and capacitor as per your website instruction.
Plugged in new parts.
Compresser turned on

Replaced filter and the water started to flow like the Nile River and the ice maker came back to life.

Took out the old and installed the new.. The fit was perfect.

It is as easy as is shown in the self-help video. (1) Disconnect the power, (2) Roll the appliance out so you can get to the back, (3) Using a nut driver remove all the screws from the lower back panel then remove the panel, (4) Remove the tensioner wire, (5) unplug the electrical connection to the capacitor, (6) gently but firmly remove the capacitor and starter relay as one unit, (7) preassemble your new capacitor and starter relay as one unit, (8) now simply reverse your steps for installing and you are done! These two parts saved me the cost of a new refrigerator. Almost as easy as changing a light bulb. PS: while you have the panel removed you can do a thorough cleaning with a soft brush and vacuum.

Replacing the part itself was easy, but getting the spring in position before installing the Yoke/Pad was a bit difficult. I had to insert the spring on the Yoke/Pad tab, then retract the spring (which was difficult) prior to putting the Yoke/Pad into place on the dispenser assembly. This requires force and would be very easy to bend or break the Yoke/Pad tab. I'm not sure if there is some trick to retract the spring and keep it retracted during the Yoke/Pad installation.

Replaced the left side endcap for the drawer. Three screws and it popped out. Easy process once I actually looked at it. Drawer cover now works as designed. Replaced inline water filter. Not problem there.

Unscrew filter. Screw on filter bypass

Since it wasn't possible to squeeze the seal in between the door groove and the bar which closes the gap between the two doors, I cut the seal side in half and snaked it in from the top and the bottom. Since the cut is behind the bar when the door is closed there is no compromise in getting a good seal around the door. Note there was no apparent way to easily remove this bar.

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.