SRD520TE-P1313101WE Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the ice tray from the freeze. Turn over and remove screws holding the face plate on. Remove the 4 screws holding the crushing mechanism in place. Pull the entire mechanism out and remove the nut holding the blades together. Remember the alignment of the blades. Remove blades and then the pastic crush wheel. Replace in reverse order. Very easy.

Popped out broken switch with blunt flat edged instrument. Disconnected switch from unit . Plugged new piece in and reinserted into side panel of refrigerator. Very easy.

Removed the top hinge cover with Philips screwdriver. Removed the three bolts holding the top hinge in place. Removed the top hinge, and lifted the door off the remains of the lower hinge. Unbolted the remnants of the lower hinge closure mechanism and replaced it with the new set. Reassembled the door on the lower hinge, and then replaced and bolted back on the top hinge. Door back to full working order in less than fifteen minutes.

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

Removed old agitator unit - 4 nut-head screws removed, and installed new agitator and screws aligned easily.

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

I had to cut a groove in the bushing to put the elec. wires through it, & then just remove the hinge, put the bushing in & replace the hing.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Just plugged it in

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.