IGS900DS04 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Removed old ingniter with screwdriver. Installed new igniter, but had to remove connector in order to electrically connect using twist on connectors.

1. Pulled range out from its cabinet setting and turned off the gas and unplugged the electric cord. 2. Removed all knobs (and soft pads) to burners. 3. Removed curved cover that covers the burners gas valves, gas manifold and igniter harness. 4. Removed a part that could be referred to as a flange or riser that is attached to the top of the range front at the burner level which the top of the curved piece is attached to. 5.The igniter attachments to the gas valves come off by pulling them away from the valve. I pulled away the one for the grill. 6. With these parts removed, eye sight and 1/2" open end wrench access is given to where the gas valve is attached to the burner gas line. 7. Disconnected the valve from the burner line. 8.Removed the bracket that holds the valve in place, thus removing the valve. 9. Installed new valve and bracket and attached valve to burner line. 10. Reattached the igniter part to the valve, then attached the flange (#4), then the curved cover, then the burner knobs (and soft pads). 11.Reconnected the electric cord and opened the gas valve. 12 Pushed the range back into its cabinet place and pushed the 'Cancel:' mark as directed by the digital read-out on the range's back riser control panel. Checked for gas leak. None. It took a bit of scrutiny to see what to remove and in what sequence.

You Tube!!! Didn’t find my exact oven, but watching a couple of videos was extremely helpful. Replacing the igniter was basically simple, but since it was a first for me, I took my time. Probably saved $200. The part was just over $100.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

Simply remove two screws take old one off and line up and put new one on and replace the two screws. Couldn't have been easier.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

Replaced Igniter, only problem was the connector was in the back of the unit. I had to take off the back of the unit. About 12 small hex screws to make connection. Other than that it was pretty easy.

Easy instal most of time was taking off and replacing back panel Found watching how to videos helpful

I repair it by shutting off the gas. removing the back panel of the stove . unplug the electrical sensor cord to the igniter. Then replace with new one.

Shut gas off. Took cover off of valve assembly. Removed broken valve and installed new part. Turned gas on and checked for leaks. Installed cover on valve assembly.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Just removed the shield (2 wing nuts) than the burner (1 Screw). THe back needs to be removed to unplug the igniter. I than reversed the process until I got to the plug and found that I had 2 male ends. I than had to remove everything and go back to square one until I find the part with the correct end (which should be Female) I'd check this before getting too deep into the repair.

Unplug range

Shut off gas supply

Remove rear panel screws and panel with nut driver

Disconnect power plug from broiler element igniter

Open upper oven door

Remove screw from the front of the gas burner.

Remove screw using nut driver from rear of gas burner

Remove gas burner from oven and pull cord through from rear panel

Using nut driver, remove igniter from mount on gas burner

Install new igniter on mount on gas burner using nut driver

Reinstall is reverse of disassembly

Connect power and turn gas back on. Test igniter by activating broil on upper oven