GW395LEPT05 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I called the place that I ordered the range from and set up a repair date. The repairman came out and diagnosed the problem and had to order the part (Valve). I noticed on the repair ticket the cost of $172.00. I checked out this site and found it a whole lot cheaper. I called the repairman and advised that I found the part cheaper and expected them to tell me they would adjust the price of the repair. They told me to order the part and let them know when it came in. I got it two days after I ordered it. I called the repairman who came out and installed it.

after reading tips on your site I just removed 1/2 dozen or so screws
took off back cover, part was right in the open, 2 more screws unplugged/replugged part, it worked! couldn't have been easier.

Due to the screws that hold the handle on being inside the oven door, I had to take the door completely apart to install the new handle. Once I figured out the pieces I had to remove the process was simple it just took time. Part was perfect.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Getting at the part was difficult. The top and both side panels had to be removed to reach the blower. Once they were off, it was fairly easy to swap out the blower. The repair guy wanted $140 for the part and $160 to insall. I did it myself for $94! If you do it yourself, keep a good record of what screws came from where as you go. This makes re-assembly much easier.

Open oven dooor. With a philip screw driver remove the gasket plate at the bottom of the oven holding the seal gasket. pull seal gasket away from oven seal channel and clean surface before installing new seal. align seal pins to to seal channel holes be sure not to twist the seal insert pins in one at a time.Install lower bracket however you may want to wet the fray ends of the seal gasket prior to screwing in plate to keep the ends from moving away from the bracket when scrwing it in place.

My Kitchen Aid (Model KGR1801) gas range would not preheat. I did some online research and found that the gas range valve regulator is most likely the problem. I spoke to someone from a local appliance repair shop and he informed me that the gas valve is known to fail on this particular Kitchen Aid oven. I ordered the part from PartsSelect.com for a very reasonable price, received it the next morning by 10AM. In about 10 minutes I installed the gas valve and fired up the oven. I highly recommend PartsSelect.com.

Replaced oven temp sensor, removed oven door and interior racks for easy access to oven upper rear sensor access. Used philips head screw driver to remove both screws, gently pulled old senor out of reat oven wall until electrical connector clear of rear wall, disconnected connector, connected new sensor and gently pushed wiring and connector back into opening, reinstalled door and racks. Ran open thru cycle and used oven thermometer to check temp. fast easy install

Remove rear panel - remove sensor from inside - unplug from rear - reverse to install - did not fix problem

Quickly

Removed old racks, installed new racks. Recycled old racks.

First I looked at how I would get to the blower - this took 15 minutes. I removed the grills to access the burners. Then I removed the burners that took approx. 15 minutes. I then had to remove the knobs for the burners. Next I had to remove the front control panel which had 2 screws - (did not disconnect any wires but supported it). Next I had to remove the side trim. Next I removed 4-5 screws that secured the upper burner range top. Next I removed the side panels which has a braket on the lower forward side and 2 rear screws on each panel. Next I had to remove the aft backspash guard. At the back I had to remove a support braket that had several screws - then I had to remove the exhaust fan back panel guard. Next I had to remove approx. 7 screws on each side of the stove that supports the burner valves. Then I lifted the left side most closest to the blower. This gave me access just enough to remove the mounting screws (4) and to remove the 2 wires. There was some cushioning material which I found inadequate to prevent any vibration when the fan and the valve support top sits on the blower - so I doubled it. Then I reinstalled everything. This job took me 4 hours. I suggest calling a Kitchenaid repair technician and not doing this yourself. Unless you are a mechanically inclined and really like frustration.

Pulled out stove and removed side panel, then removed old fan unit. Installed new fan unit and replaced side of stove then slide back in place, stove runs even more quiet than when it was new. And obtaining the new part from Partselect was even easier than dealing with a part store where you stand at the counter. This service really has the part down pat for us layman repair people.

The steel mounting screw tends to seize in the aluminum burner head. It is not easy to extract, or to drill out and rethread. My advice is to replace the burner head at the same time.

Pulled the stove out, unscrewed the back and plugged the new thermostat in. Screwed the back back on