MGR6775BDQ18 Maytag Range - Instructions

Removed grills, lower burner cover and burner inlet cover. I then pulled burner out far enough until plug for igniter was exposed. Unclipped wire connection by squeezing in retainer clip and then pulled apart. Pulled burner tube/igniter assembly out and removed two igniter retaining screws. Then reinstalled in reverse order.

very simple fix. I removed the bake burner cover (the blue cover on the bottom of the oven), under that is the oven baffle which is held on with one wing nut and removed that. Then remove the oven bake igniter screws(two on the side), remove the orifice cover scew and remove then remove the oven bake burner gently. once these parts are off you need to remove the screws on the back of the oven ( I believe theres about 4 or 5 along each side and there are 4 on the bottom of the large metal plate. you only need to remove the large metal cover every thing else stays put. Disconnect the lower back burner attatchment which just clips into the connecter. once thats removed the part should come out easlily from the inside of the oven. Now take the new bake ignitor and feed the wires through the opening on the inside of the oven that allows the wires to come through to the back of the oven(you may need to feel around for the wires and move some of the insulation aside to feel them) once the wires come through the back connect the new part by clipping it to the harness the old part was removed from. At this point you should be able to reassemble the back of the oven exactly the way it was removed.Now go back to the inside of the oven, replace the bake burner gently over the bake burner orifice and put the orifice cover back on and reattach with it's screw. Position the bake igniter back into place on the side of the bake burner and replace the two screws previously removed. Once thats in place its time to put the oven baffle back on and secure with the wing nut and the last step is to place the bake burner cover. Just set the oven to bake and it should be working if thats in fact the problem..Good luck. Took me less than 15 minutes to fix.Some find it easier to remove the oven door but I didn't need to do this since I had enough room to access the front and the back of the oven without any trouble.

Followed instructions I found online at the Maytag site.

This is a no brainer. I am only doing this because you asked. Pull out the stove, tilt it back, remove broken leg, install new leg.

My used stove had been dropped by the previous owner. While I could live with the minor scratches on one side the wooden shims holding up one corner were annoying. A new leveling leg was less than $2. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to straighten the mounting hole and screwed the new leg in. This used stove was originally $2000 but I bought it for $999. the new leg plus shipping was about $10. What a deal.

Removed old gasket and replaced with new gasket'

Remove the big back panel (5 phillips screws). Confirm voltage is present when attempting to start the oven by unplugging the PROPER ignitor. I say proper because initially I thought that the broil ignitor was the culprit. Very upper ignitor is the broiler ignitor and the next one down is the ignitor for the upper oven. You will notice that the ignitor plugs differ between broiler and oven. New ignitor should have a male end. Once I confirmed that voltage was present when attempting to turn on the upper oven and probing the ignitor terminal plug, I proceeded to remove the lower cover inside the oven (2 screws very front side) and remove the burner assembly. (First you'll need to remove the oven door, easy, just tilt out part way and slide it up and off of the rails). The ignitor is mounted to the burner assembly. It's inevitable, the 5/16 hex screws (x2) will absolutely strip out so make sure you have some extras on hand. Replace the ignitor, reinstall and you should be good to go! I've read that you shouldn't touch the element with your fingers as this will compromise the life of the ignitor. Good luck!

the repair was not difficult ,take time cause back panel has to be removed to gain access to unplug the temp sensor ,it appear to work but the digital clock still flash not all the timebut it should not flash , not sure that i have fixed it

Removed stove from slot in wall. Bent rear left leg would not unscrew due to bent metal bracket. Used hacksaw to cut out leg, then straightened metal bracket with small hammer and was able to screw new leg in and adjust height by using level on stove before reinserting stove its slot. Recheck level after pushing back in place and adjust front legs if necessary. If not for bent metal receiving bracket, would have taken much less time. Still easy tho. R'cvd part in two days. Very quick.

Cut off the electricity at the junction box. Removed two screws from the sensor at the back of the oven. Then pulled the sensor with the wire out of the installation hole in the back of the oven. Disconnected the quick connect plug from the sensor and reconnected the new part. Reversed the process and screwed the two screens back into the oven wall. Turned the electricity back on and started up the oven. (Everything ran well for about three days when the oven again signaled "F-5" indicating the oven was again not functioning properly. Restarted the oven and is currently running properly. My spouse does a lot of baking with this oven for cookies, roasts, etc. Next time it fails I will be forced to call a repairman as I believe there is something wrong other then the heat sensor.

I think the installation instructions are fairly self explanatory. This is the second item I've ordered from Parts Select and I'm thrilled with their service. The items are always less expensive than other sites and they deliver what they promise. I would highly recommend them.

watched video provided when ordered part; follow the steps, easy as pie

I removed the sensor from the oven using a philip screw driver. The sensor was removed by removing the two screws holding it in place in the upper left hand corner of the oven. I had to disconnect the sensor on the back of stove. Then I pulled the old sensor through the hole inside the oven. Then I installed the new sensor by putting the wire of the sensor through the hole where the old sensor was removed. Then I hooked up the wire in the back of the stove. Then took the screw driver and replaced the two screws holding the sensor in place. It was very easy to do and the oven is doing fine now.

Undid screws on front and some on the back and replaced part and put screws back on and it fixed the proble

First, I called Sears who wanted $440.00 to send a tech out to repair the stove. Second, I visited various web sites to find out what the problem was. I watched a brief video on Part Select which showed the repair of the stove. I then checked other parts stores on the web and selected Part Select based on price and video. Installation was very easy just as the video showed. Stove was repaired in less than 30 minutes.