MGR5750ADW Maytag Range - Instructions

It wasn't the handle that was broken, it was what the handle was attached to that was. I removed the door by opening to first detent and just lifting the door upward. Once off, I removed the screws on the top sides and underneath - a total of 9. This allowed me to remove the edging on the sides and underneath - the front glass came with it as well. Then I removed the Top trim by removing a screw on each of the sides and two on the front - this was the piece that was broken. Since I had already disassembled most of the door, I went ahead and dismatled the rest so that I could clean everything. The pieces that would fit went into the dishwaser and the rest (including the glass) I washed by hand (except the white insulation pieces of course). I did take apart the double glass panel by lifting up on a bent tab on one of the corners - this allowed me to clean the insides as well as the groves in which the glass sat. After everything was clean, I reassembled everything in the reverse order substituting the new trim for the old.

Notes: The top of the trim piece has two diferent screws - two short ones that screws into the trim piece itself and two that go through to the door metal. The screw that I ordered ended up being one of the short ones and I wanted the other. The snap nut was correct, and was what the longer screw to the trim actually grabs on to. I ended up using one of my own screws that fit like a dream, but wasn't painted white. The other note is that the sheet metal that the trim piece screws into from the front was slightly stripped. All I had to do was to place the metal on a hard surface and hit the holes with a hammer to bring them back into a usable form - not ideal, but worked nonetheless.

removed racks, bottom plate. removed screws with a little bit of help from cooking spray. Unclipped old ignitor clipped in new ignitor, used old screws, and inserted insulation replaced racks, bottom shelf. Turn on oven and worked, been using it for about a week now. PS. ordered on monday morning arrived wednesday afternoon.

Unscrewed burners (1/4 turn and pop out) then removed set screws, opened top of range. Used 1/2" wrench to remove gas pressure fittings, popped new ones in, replaced wires. Placed top down and then put screws in to minimze movement of tubes.

I removed the door from the oven and set it on towel on the table, and started the repair of the door. I removed the screws one at a time, and one layer at a time. Becareful you need to take the whole door apart, and remember how it goes bact together. In the end it was worth it. The hardest part was getting the right part. I thought I could order the whole door, and found out after several calls they don't sell the whole door. Part Select both times I put in my order had the parts at my door within 2 to 3 days. I also had to return one of the parts and within 2 to 3 days the part was credited to my account

The burners turn and lift. I replaced two. One turned very easily, the other was stuck so I used liquid wrench and plumbers pliers. I did get it off. Once off, the old wires slipped right off and onto the new burners. Those twisted on very easily. Good as new easy breezy.

Confirmed that the solenoid controlled water valve (Part # PS358631) between the water source and the back of ice maker was defective. I did this by removing the valve and plastic hose from the back of the refrigerator and pointed the end that went into the icemaker towards the sink. I applied 110 volts to the valve and noted that no water was getting through. Replacing the valve was a snap.

Had to unplug unit, remove back of unit (6 screws), then unscrew oven sensor (2 screws), then unplugged old sensor, replaced it and put back of oven on...Moving the oven out and working in the tight space avaialble was the most difficult. Other than that, super easy job that probably saved me a lot of $$$...

First I unpuged the Range. Then I removed all racks and bottom tray of oven.
The Ignitor is located at back of oven, paralelle to the gas bar. I removed the 2 screws holding the ignitor and unpluged the wires. Then I put on the new ignitor, perfect fit, replaced the 2 screws and pluged in the wires , then pluged in the range. I turned the oven on and it lit in about 10 seconds.
Thank you PartSelect for having such a wide range of range & oven parts . no one should have to pay a service tech. to fix most problems, as long as we have a GREAT SITE LIKE THIS ONE.
p.s. You guy also had one of the lowest prices , my part arrived ahead of schedule .
THANKS A LOT !

After reading some of the repair stories, I was hesitant about doing this task. It was really very simple, I just removed the screws from the back of the stove, and removed the old element. I then replaced it with the new one and replaced the back cover. This whole task from start to finish took 10 minutes. The oven heats perfectly now just like a new oven.

I removed the two screws that attach the sensor to the oven wall. Then removed to more screws in the back of the oven and took off the rear cover, diconnected the sensor connector and installed the new sensor.

I was not sure what was causing the problem, I thought at first it was low water pressure causing the hollow ice cubes. After some trial and error testing I figured a likely cause could be the water valve in the ice maker itself. I replaced that part rather easily using the existing fasteners in about 15 or 20 minutes. The ice maker has been working flawlessly since the repair.

Turn off the gas supply and unplug the power cord. Remove the screw on the back plate for the metal tab that covers the valve. Bend the tab up to expose the valve. Remove the gas line that feeds the broiler with an adjustable wrench. Remove the mounting screw for the valve. Loosen the valve inlet gas line fitting with an adjustable wrench. Lift the valve out. Reverse the steps to install the new valve.

I removed the screws from the top of the door, the sides and the bottom of the door. I still couldn't get the door to come apart because there were screws on the inside. It took me about 10 minutes to figure out that I had to slide the glass plate off the front of the door to get at the screws on the inside. Once that was done, I was able to replace the handle without problem. The only other thing is that I cut the top of my index finger while trying to clean the door before I put it back together. I was careful to keep track of which screws went where because otherwise it would get confusing. My handle looks and works great! Thanks

Removed (6) screws to remove outer glass door. Note: the door handle has to be removed before removing outer glass door complety as the upper edge of the outer glass door fits in a slot in the door handle. Removed (4) screws to remove door handle. Removed (8) screws to remove door baffle with glass pane. Removed frame that holds (2) glass panes. Bent up tab on frame to remove the cracked pane. Cleaned all removed glass panes with glass cleaner including the new glass pane. Installed the new glass pane into frame and bent down tab on frame. Making sure the insulation was still in place I re-installed all parts in the order they were removed. The complete job took about 45 minutes. The drip pan kit fits perfect.

I screwed the light lens into the socket and went beautifully. Better than the original. (I am a retired, 75 yr. old woman).