MGR6772BDQ Maytag Range - Instructions

Removed the entire oven door by slidding it up and off of the side brackets. Removed screws on the sides and bottom edge of door which enabled me to remove the metal edging that held the glass in place. Placed the glass in the bottome clips of the bracket and then positioned it back against the oven door and tightened the screws back in. Slid the door back on the side brackets. Closed door. Done. Very easy once I determined how it needed to be done

Did the diagnostic tests from the literature provided in a bag on the back of my stove I had no idea it was on the back of my stove because I had this stove installed when it was brand new
The final test indicated the igniter was bad and this is a common cause due to age wear and tear and just use of the oven
So I ordered one. It came extremely fast
It was a an OEM part
I had the oven back in operation in 15 minutes that includes R&R of the stove back and oven racks and inside fire tube covers and fire tube
I then replaced the bad igniter with the new one on the fire tube then reinstalled the fire tube
Then I did the Prefire test with the Gas turned off and the igniter lit beautifully
Then the final test was I turned on the gas and did the Prefire test again AND the fire tube lit up and beautiful blue flames came out the fire tubes tiny holes
Then I finished putting the back and inboard fire tube covers back on
Then I put the racks back in
This is what I did from start to finish and the Most important thing was I made my wife extremely happy

unplugged from electric; turned gas off behind range & removed back panel; removed rack & door (optional) of upper oven; slid & removed drip cover; removed flame guard; carefully unscrewed igniter bracket to keep from dropping fasteners; located and unplugged old igniter from range back; removed old igniter through front of oven, go slow as it gets caught along the way; fed new igniter through same path; reverse steps - plug in new igniter, secure in oven, replace guard & cover & door if removed; back panel installed; gas knob turned to align with gas line; range plugged back into electric wall socket

You Tube!!! Didn’t find my exact oven, but watching a couple of videos was extremely helpful. Replacing the igniter was basically simple, but since it was a first for me, I took my time. Probably saved $200. The part was just over $100.

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

Waited for my husband to do it, but when he didn't, I tried it. Very simple! Just pulled the old gasket out of the pinch pin holes in the door, then replaced it. Tuck the one end into the hole at the bottom of the door, then match up the little pinch pins on the gasket with the holes in the door - matches up perfectly! Be sure to tuck in each of pinch pins till they sort of "snap" into each hole. Took me 5 minutes, tops. Works great now, no more lost heat around the edge of the door.

Removed door from oven by pulling up at the first stop point after opening the door. Removed the outer shell by removing 5 screws. Disassembled the inner door by removing 6 screws. Be careful with the insulation blanket (fits in a molded portion of the inner door). Glass windows can be removed (for cleaning) via a couple screws. Old gasket/seal is held in-place via spring-clips; just squeezed each clip, pushed each thru their respective holes, and pulled off the worn-out gasket. New gasket snapped in-place by pushing the clips thru the respective holes. Reverse the process to reassemble the door. You can do this job in 15-20 minutes. Took us longer because it took some elbow-grease (and patience) to clean the crud off the glass windows.

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

Easy instal most of time was taking off and replacing back panel Found watching how to videos helpful

Removed door, oven racks, and cover at the bottom. Very easy to get to the actual ignitor. The more challenging part is getting to the back of the oven where the igniter plugs in. Once we got the oven pulled out enough to access the bottom of the back panel, we removed the back panel....just a couple screws and it slides up. Unclipping and removing the old igniter was easy. It's a bit of a challenge to feed the new igniter's wires under the insulation and up over a small ledge and out a small hole that's smaller than a quarter. Small hands help. You can avoid the whole part of attaching it in the back of you clip the wires of your old igniter and new one. Then use ceramic wire nuts to connect the new igniter the the old one's wires. We decided not to do that since it was already done once that way and figured it would be good to have fresh wires clipped in at the back. Overall, fairly easy repair especially if you decide to connect the igniter with ceramic wire nuts.

Remove the door, remove screws from all sides

Remove sides and face of oven door by sliding down from under the oven handle trim.

Remove screws on 2nd light of glass and set aside.

Now you are at the inner door panes. their should be two in an insulated type unit.

Remove the remaining screws from the handle pracket and the permiter frame for the glass/insulation. Remove permiter frame and set aside.

Pull out inner door glass frame. get a pair of pliers and bend tab on frame up so you can pull the frame sightly apart, replace the glass, secure frame tightly around glass slide tab back into reciever slot and bend down ( you may need another person to assist in keeping both lights in the frame while trying to ben tab back in to place)

reassemble door as it came apart carefull not to over tighten the screws, they strip easy.

Shut off gas supply
Pulled stove away from wall removed spark ignigtor box .
Installed new one .
No problem.
Good for another 10 years

From reading other reviews i thought I would have to dis-assemble the door but when I saw the new part I realized I would not have to, simply pop the beveled clips w/pocket knife and pop in the new seal clips. the ends tucked very nicely, an 80+ yr. old would have no trouble if they had their wits.

Maytag Gemini Freestanding Gas Double Range MGR6775BDS-Impotant Note: This Maytag Gemini is a double oven-so there is a smaller oven on top and a larger oven on the bottom. In the small top over, there are two igniters (broiler igniter on top of the oven and a bake igniter on the bottom). The igniters look identical (like the broil igniter) but have different connectors, and therefore different part numbers on the site . The top broil igniter is WP7400-7966 and the bottom bake igniter is WP7400-7399. They look identical but have different connectors. The repair was simple. Shut off the electric and gas to the stove. Remove the back panel (5 screws), and disconnect the igniter. The oven igniter is below the broil igniter for the top oven. Inside the small oven, remove the heat deflector cover (two screws right in front). Now remove the heat deflector (two wing nuts on top of the burner). Now remove the burner. There are three screws, one right in front (by the door), one in the bracket by the igniter and a third holding a small plate by the flame adjustment valve. Once the three screws are removed, fish the igniter wire (that you unattached in the back of the stove) through the stove wall into the oven area. Slide the burner a little to the left and remove it from the oven. The igniter is attached to the burner by two screws. Remove the igniter and attach the new one. As another tip, one of the screws would not unscrew (stripped in the metal). Maybe this is because of the constant heat and cooling of the metal. I had to saw off the old screw and reattached the igniter with my own screw and nut. Fish the new igniter wire through to back of the oven. Attach it to the connector in the back of the range. Reverse the directions to re-install the burner, heat deflector, heat defector cover and rear panel (on the back of the range).