MGR6772BDQ Maytag Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Kathy from HOPE, AR
- Parts Used:
- W11596211
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
igniter bad - top oven's lower flame won't light
unplugged from electric; turned gas off behind range & removed back panel; removed rack & door (optional) of upper oven; slid & removed drip cover; removed flame guard; carefully unscrewed igniter bracket to keep from dropping fasteners; located and unplugged old igniter from range back; removed old igniter through front of oven, go slow as it gets caught along the way; fed new igniter through same path; reverse steps - plug in new igniter, secure in oven, replace guard & cover & door if removed; back panel installed; gas knob turned to align with gas line; range plugged back into electric wall socket
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- Customer:
- Linda from La Salle, IL
- Parts Used:
- 74006637
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Glass door was bumped and it shattered.
Removed the entire oven door by slidding it up and off of the side brackets. Removed screws on the sides and bottom edge of door which enabled me to remove the metal edging that held the glass in place. Placed the glass in the bottome clips of the bracket and then positioned it back against the oven door and tightened the screws back in. Slid the door back on the side brackets. Closed door. Done. Very easy once I determined how it needed to be done
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- Customer:
- Robert from KNOXVILLE, TN
- Parts Used:
- W11596211
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Upper oven bake igniter went bad
You Tube!!! Didn’t find my exact oven, but watching a couple of videos was extremely helpful. Replacing the igniter was basically simple, but since it was a first for me, I took my time. Probably saved $200. The part was just over $100.
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from BOWIE, MD
- Parts Used:
- W11596211
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
. Bottom oven would not heat
Replaced Igniter, only problem was the connector was in the back of the unit. I had to take off the back of the unit. About 12 small hex screws to make connection. Other than that it was pretty easy.
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- Customer:
- Daniel from Katy, TX
- Parts Used:
- WPW10162384
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Needed to replace the oven door gasket/seal
Removed door from oven by pulling up at the first stop point after opening the door. Removed the outer shell by removing 5 screws. Disassembled the inner door by removing 6 screws. Be careful with the insulation blanket (fits in a molded portion of the inner door). Glass windows can be removed (for cleaning) via a couple screws. Old gasket/seal is held in-place via spring-clips; just squeezed each clip, pushed each thru their respective holes, and pulled off the worn-out gasket. New gasket snapped in-place by pushing the clips thru the respective holes. Reverse the process to reassemble the door. You can do this job in 15-20 minutes. Took us longer because it took some elbow-grease (and patience) to clean the crud off the glass windows.
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- Customer:
- Trace from Ofallon, MO
- Parts Used:
- 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven was not correctly heating to set temperature
Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.
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- Customer:
- Linda from Oneida, NY
- Parts Used:
- W11665456
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Broken levelling leg
Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.
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- Customer:
- Harlen from Spring Creek, NV
- Parts Used:
- WPW10162384
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Door gasket was hard and brittle from baked-on grease - heat leaking around door
Waited for my husband to do it, but when he didn't, I tried it. Very simple! Just pulled the old gasket out of the pinch pin holes in the door, then replaced it. Tuck the one end into the hole at the bottom of the door, then match up the little pinch pins on the gasket with the holes in the door - matches up perfectly! Be sure to tuck in each of pinch pins till they sort of "snap" into each hole. Took me 5 minutes, tops. Works great now, no more lost heat around the edge of the door.
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- Customer:
- Michael from VALLEJO, CA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10162384
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Gasket was worn out.
Put a new one in.
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- Customer:
- Rob from Yakima, WA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10162384
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
door seal contaminated by a boil-over, not flexible
From reading other reviews i thought I would have to dis-assemble the door but when I saw the new part I realized I would not have to, simply pop the beveled clips w/pocket knife and pop in the new seal clips. the ends tucked very nicely, an 80+ yr. old would have no trouble if they had their wits.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from East Freetown, MA
- Parts Used:
- 8215557
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
No spark at top burners
Shut off gas supply
Pulled stove away from wall removed spark ignigtor box .
Installed new one .
No problem.
Good for another 10 years
Pulled stove away from wall removed spark ignigtor box .
Installed new one .
No problem.
Good for another 10 years
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- Customer:
- William from MCHENRY, IL
- Parts Used:
- WP74007399
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Small Top Oven Would Not Turn On
Maytag Gemini Freestanding Gas Double Range MGR6775BDS-Impotant Note: This Maytag Gemini is a double oven-so there is a smaller oven on top and a larger oven on the bottom. In the small top over, there are two igniters (broiler igniter on top of the oven and a bake igniter on the bottom). The igniters look identical (like the broil igniter) but have different connectors, and therefore different part numbers on the site . The top broil igniter is WP7400-7966 and the bottom bake igniter is WP7400-7399. They look identical but have different connectors. The repair was simple. Shut off the electric and gas to the stove. Remove the back panel (5 screws), and disconnect the igniter. The oven igniter is below the broil igniter for the top oven. Inside the small oven, remove the heat deflector cover (two screws right in front). Now remove the heat deflector (two wing nuts on top of the burner). Now remove the burner. There are three screws, one right in front (by the door), one in the bracket by the igniter and a third holding a small plate by the flame adjustment valve. Once the three screws are removed, fish the igniter wire (that you unattached in the back of the stove) through the stove wall into the oven area. Slide the burner a little to the left and remove it from the oven. The igniter is attached to the burner by two screws. Remove the igniter and attach the new one. As another tip, one of the screws would not unscrew (stripped in the metal). Maybe this is because of the constant heat and cooling of the metal. I had to saw off the old screw and reattached the igniter with my own screw and nut. Fish the new igniter wire through to back of the oven. Attach it to the connector in the back of the range. Reverse the directions to re-install the burner, heat deflector, heat defector cover and rear panel (on the back of the range).
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- Customer:
- Donald from Hudsonville, MI
- Parts Used:
- WPW10406878
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Head burner had something spilled on it which stained it and left a large dark brown spot
Simply remove two screws take old one off and line up and put new one on and replace the two screws. Couldn't have been easier.
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- Customer:
- Stephen from Wolcott, CT
- Parts Used:
- WP74007399, 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven not heating up properly, taking way to long, not maintaining temperature, poor performance. (45 min to heat up to 350)
Change Temp Sensor-Turn off the power or unplug unit, remove oven racks, removed the two screws that hold temp sensor, pull out and unplug.
Change Igniter-Remove two front screws holding bottom cover on and lift out of place, next remove the two wing nuts holding square plate on, next remove the three screws holding gas tube in place, remove gas tube pulling wire carefully through and unplug it. Remove the two screws that hold igniter to gas tube. I found it easier to pull stove out and remove back bottom left square cover held in with four screws to fish the igniter cable back through.
Oven now heats to 350 in 8 minutes.
Change Igniter-Remove two front screws holding bottom cover on and lift out of place, next remove the two wing nuts holding square plate on, next remove the three screws holding gas tube in place, remove gas tube pulling wire carefully through and unplug it. Remove the two screws that hold igniter to gas tube. I found it easier to pull stove out and remove back bottom left square cover held in with four screws to fish the igniter cable back through.
Oven now heats to 350 in 8 minutes.
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- Customer:
- Ronald from SPRINGFIELD, PA
- Parts Used:
- W11596211
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Upper oven won't light
Just removed the shield (2 wing nuts) than the burner (1 Screw). THe back needs to be removed to unplug the igniter. I than reversed the process until I got to the plug and found that I had 2 male ends. I than had to remove everything and go back to square one until I find the part with the correct end (which should be Female) I'd check this before getting too deep into the repair.
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