KESC300BBL11 KitchenAid Range - Instructions
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Oven Light bulb and gasket needed replaced
Removed the light cover - unscrew the bulb - place the gasket on the base of the light cover - replace the bulb - replace the light cover
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- Customer:
- Sharon from Lynnwood, WA
- Parts Used:
- WP9750967
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Broiler Element Had Cracked-No Heat To Inside Element
It was difficult to reach the back of the oven inside to remove screws. I had to use an extended socket with a bit tip. When I tried to remove the element from the clips, the clips slid back inside the insulation at the back of the oven. I had to take the back panel off of the oven, push the clips through the opening and then I used a bag clip to hold them so they would not slide back into the opening. I could not lift the door off-too heavy- to get closer to the back of the oven to put the clips and screws back on so I laid the oven on its back after putting the back cover on. The oven door was so heavy then that I had to prop the oven door open with my 24 inch rolling pin. I then leaned down into the oven and managed to get the clips and the screws back in. I then put the oven upright again, plugged it in, then had to re-level the whole thing. I turned it on and it worked. This probably would have been easier if I were not 65 years old and had some help. I was not giving up though. I got it done.
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- Customer:
- Darryl from Wildwood, MO
- Parts Used:
- WP9750213
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Bake element had broken causing the oven not to heat up.
removed the screws that secured the lower element. Disconnected the old element from wire contacts. Inserted the new element into the wire contacts.
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Plymouth, MN
- Parts Used:
- 9751362
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Replace damaged burner switch
Unscrew 3 screws across the front inside the oven door and the 2 screws on each side of the control panel. That allows for lifting the entire control panel from the front to access the switches from underneath. The old switch is held in place by the lug nut under the knob. Once removed, the 5 wires can be disconnected (carefully noting which wire connects to which terminal). The new switch is then connected, and then fastened back into place with the lug nut. The control panel is then re-secured by the five screws
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- Customer:
- Michael from Aurora, CO
- Parts Used:
- 8203536
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Dual element burner would not turn off
Remove three Phillips screws underneath front edge, raise front edge and lay it back on stovetop. Pull knob straight off, use pliers to loosen nut holding switch in place, remove nut. I took photos of the old switch with wires attached that also showed the numbers on the terminals in case I pulled off too many at once. The new switch isn't arranged the same as the old one, but follow the conversion table, and it will work fine. Remove and replace one wire at a time. When replacing the control panel don't try to just lay it flat and slide it back on -- it won't work. Easier if you hold it at about 90 degrees and pivot it back onto the rubber seal at the edge of the stovetop. Re-install the three screws, and you're done. The new switch fixed the problem perfectly. I took apart the old switch and found a broken metal piece inside, so I was confident this was the problem, and not some other component.
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- Customer:
- Vincent from Hutchinson, KS
- Parts Used:
- WP9750213
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
oven not heating up.
Remove two screws. Plug n play.
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- Customer:
- James from Buford, GA
- Parts Used:
- WP9781049
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Light lens broke when self clean cycle was used
I searched Whirlpool, Sears and random appliance stores and Part Select was the only company to have the lens available. All other manufacturers said the lens was no longer manufactured as a stand alone piece and I would have to buy the entire light assembly. Thank you Parts Select!!!!!
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- Customer:
- Clifford from Jacksonville, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP9750213
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The bottom heating element broke in one part.
TURNED OFF THE POWER TO THE RANGE, DISCONNECTED THE ELECTRIC PLUG. I unscrewed the element attached to the oven, disconnected the connectors. Reconnected the element and screwed the part back to the oven. EASIER THEN I THROUGHT.
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- Customer:
- Grant from Alexandria, VA
- Parts Used:
- 8009
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Light bulb failure
Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.
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- Customer:
- Warren from Mukwonago, WI
- Parts Used:
- 8053344
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Little or no heat when baking
That should have been an easy repair according to previous responders that replaced this part.
The first issue is the Phillips head screw that fastens the sensor to the back of the oven was frozen and I had to drill it out.
The second issue was I could not pull the connector through the hole where the sensor wires pass. I decided to cut the sensor wires and use wire connectors to attach the sensor as instructed in the sheet provided with the sensor.
NOTE: You MUST use third party "gray" colored wire connectors that you can purchase in a hardware store. - the connectors provided DO NOT have a metal insert and even after several attempts would not grab the wires.
Another caution is you should use a self-tapping sheet metal screw to fasten the sensor to the oven wall if you encounter the same frozen screw that I did!
After I installed the sensor I tested the oven but found that this DID NOT solve the problem! I needed to order the "hidden" bake element that is mounted under the bottom oven wall and also the broil/bake element that is mounted inside of the oven on the top. See my comments for the Bake Element (bottom)
The first issue is the Phillips head screw that fastens the sensor to the back of the oven was frozen and I had to drill it out.
The second issue was I could not pull the connector through the hole where the sensor wires pass. I decided to cut the sensor wires and use wire connectors to attach the sensor as instructed in the sheet provided with the sensor.
NOTE: You MUST use third party "gray" colored wire connectors that you can purchase in a hardware store. - the connectors provided DO NOT have a metal insert and even after several attempts would not grab the wires.
Another caution is you should use a self-tapping sheet metal screw to fasten the sensor to the oven wall if you encounter the same frozen screw that I did!
After I installed the sensor I tested the oven but found that this DID NOT solve the problem! I needed to order the "hidden" bake element that is mounted under the bottom oven wall and also the broil/bake element that is mounted inside of the oven on the top. See my comments for the Bake Element (bottom)
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- Customer:
- Marion from Centereach, NY
- Parts Used:
- WP9750967
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Heating element burnt out
Had difficulty removing the two screws holding element(range is eighteen years old.Screws were badly rusted)After that,it was a piece of cake
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- Customer:
- Christina from West Des Moines, IA
- Parts Used:
- WP8203546
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
range installer broke a screw off & busted the plastic piece
Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one
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- Customer:
- Rick from boca raton, FL
- Parts Used:
- 8203536
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Dual Surface Burner Pilot Light On All The Time Element Would Not Heat Up
Followed included instructions transfered wires from old dual burner switch to new dual burner switch per the instuctions the new switch did not look exactly like the original switch but the instructions tell you how to wire it up. It works fine now,
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Broken dual broiler element, broken interior glass, missing drawer roller
Turned off electricity at breaker, slid stove out from wall. Disconnected unit. Removed back panel (4screws). Disconnected double broiler wires from the back. Unscrewed element bracket from back wall of oven (2 screws). Removed and replaced element and replaced screws to back wall of oven. Reconnected wires on the back of the oven where element connectors protrude from oven wall. Replaced back panel (4 screws). Removed oven door by pulling forward (no screws involved). Removed screws from bottom of door holding trim on (7 screws). Removed bottom trim and side trim. Removed front glass. Removed inner portion of door (it's just stacked together sandwiching some insulation). Removed track holding 2 glass panels (6 screws and pressure brackets). Removed one screw from corner of track. Removed and replaced inner glass. Lay door flat on floor front down to reassemble. Place glass insulation (looks like rope) around window opening. Lay the track containing he replaced glass down (side with most shallow recess). Replace 6 screws and pressure brackets. Replace large insulation and inner door panel. Reinstall front glass in slots under door handle. Replace oven door back. Reinstall side and bottom trim in reverse order to removal. Replace 7 screws along bottom of door. Reinstall door assembly to oven by sliding tabs back into the range. Done!
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- Customer:
- Art from Parma, OH
- Parts Used:
- 8053344
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Bad tempature sensor
Followed instruction on web site
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