KESC300BBL11 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Sensor matched perfect, but had to pull large upper rear panel to find location. From there took a few minutes to reassemble back. Did not un hook gas but turned it off. Obviously unplugged power. Oven works fine.

The repair was simple:
PartSelect always seems to have the parts you need and they get them to you quickly.
Baking element - I removed the two screws that hold the element to the back of the oven ( Philips head). Disconnected the spade type electrical connections from each end of the element. Note: use some type of clamp to hold the wires from pulling back into the outer section of the oven. I used wooden clothespins). Reverse the process to install new element.
Broiler element - I placed the shipping container over the new baking element to protect it. Then removed the four screws holding the top element to the back of the oven ( Philips head). Take care to mark the 4 wires for the broiler element. ( 2 for outer coil & 2 for inner coil) Clamp these wires also after disconnecting. Slide the 2 "L" shaped hangers out of there slots. When installing the new element connect the wires first then slide the "L" shaped hangers back into the slots. reinstall the 4 screws and your done. I did the repair with out removing the oven door ( ours is difficult to get back on ) with the door off the job will take less time and access will be easier.

removed oven door from stove. Laid door on work table. Took screws out of the bottom. Flipped each layer over until I got to the interior glass. Removed broken glass and installed new glass. Flipped pieces back in place and put screws back in. Placed oven door back on stove. Easy!!

Turned off electricity at breaker, slid stove out from wall. Disconnected unit. Removed back panel (4screws). Disconnected double broiler wires from the back. Unscrewed element bracket from back wall of oven (2 screws). Removed and replaced element and replaced screws to back wall of oven. Reconnected wires on the back of the oven where element connectors protrude from oven wall. Replaced back panel (4 screws). Removed oven door by pulling forward (no screws involved). Removed screws from bottom of door holding trim on (7 screws). Removed bottom trim and side trim. Removed front glass. Removed inner portion of door (it's just stacked together sandwiching some insulation). Removed track holding 2 glass panels (6 screws and pressure brackets). Removed one screw from corner of track. Removed and replaced inner glass. Lay door flat on floor front down to reassemble. Place glass insulation (looks like rope) around window opening. Lay the track containing he replaced glass down (side with most shallow recess). Replace 6 screws and pressure brackets. Replace large insulation and inner door panel. Reinstall front glass in slots under door handle. Replace oven door back. Reinstall side and bottom trim in reverse order to removal. Replace 7 screws along bottom of door. Reinstall door assembly to oven by sliding tabs back into the range. Done!

It was difficult to reach the back of the oven inside to remove screws. I had to use an extended socket with a bit tip. When I tried to remove the element from the clips, the clips slid back inside the insulation at the back of the oven. I had to take the back panel off of the oven, push the clips through the opening and then I used a bag clip to hold them so they would not slide back into the opening. I could not lift the door off-too heavy- to get closer to the back of the oven to put the clips and screws back on so I laid the oven on its back after putting the back cover on. The oven door was so heavy then that I had to prop the oven door open with my 24 inch rolling pin. I then leaned down into the oven and managed to get the clips and the screws back in. I then put the oven upright again, plugged it in, then had to re-level the whole thing. I turned it on and it worked. This probably would have been easier if I were not 65 years old and had some help. I was not giving up though. I got it done.

That should have been an easy repair according to previous responders that replaced this part.

The first issue is the Phillips head screw that fastens the sensor to the back of the oven was frozen and I had to drill it out.

The second issue was I could not pull the connector through the hole where the sensor wires pass. I decided to cut the sensor wires and use wire connectors to attach the sensor as instructed in the sheet provided with the sensor.

NOTE: You MUST use third party "gray" colored wire connectors that you can purchase in a hardware store. - the connectors provided DO NOT have a metal insert and even after several attempts would not grab the wires.

Another caution is you should use a self-tapping sheet metal screw to fasten the sensor to the oven wall if you encounter the same frozen screw that I did!

After I installed the sensor I tested the oven but found that this DID NOT solve the problem! I needed to order the "hidden" bake element that is mounted under the bottom oven wall and also the broil/bake element that is mounted inside of the oven on the top. See my comments for the Bake Element (bottom)

Had difficulty removing the two screws holding element(range is eighteen years old.Screws were badly rusted)After that,it was a piece of cake

Removed the light cover - unscrew the bulb - place the gasket on the base of the light cover - replace the bulb - replace the light cover

The repair was very easy. It took me less than ten minutes. There were only five screws including two to hold heat element that I have to unscrew and transferred the old clip the screw onto new heat element.

I got the new wheel and screwed it in by hand. It took like 4 minutes total between taking out the drawer, screwing the new wheel on, and putting the drawer back in

I took the back plate off of the oven by removing 3 screws and removed a single screw holding the sensor element in place, plugged the electrical 2 prong terminals back together and re-assembled the back of the oven. After the installation was completed we did a test run. It worked for aprox. 15 minutes and shut off again. It must have re-booted its self, cause when we tried it again it worked and still is working.

The Temperature Sensor was actually installed from the back of the oven. I had to remove about six(6) screws to remove a metal panel on the back of the stove. The connector the Temp sensor came with did not match the existing connector however it did come with wire nuts as an alternative. I cut the wires and connected them with the wire nuts and replaced the pannel. Very easy fix and my 13 year old oven still runs like new.

Replaced both rollers....Quick and Easy!!

I searched Whirlpool, Sears and random appliance stores and Part Select was the only company to have the lens available. All other manufacturers said the lens was no longer manufactured as a stand alone piece and I would have to buy the entire light assembly. Thank you Parts Select!!!!!

Removed the element by using a basic screw driver...two screws. Detached the slip on wire attachments (don't know what they are called). Re-attached new element and screws. Very simple. I was hoping elements were a little cheaper, but I was impressed with the speed that Part Select delivered my new element. I'll use them again.