KGRS505XBL00 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

I determined the bake igniter was not working. If the bake ignitor does not work, the sensing unit to turn on the gas does not activate. I examined the bake igniter it was blacked significantly in one spot. There were no apperant cracks in it. I did a web search for the part and ordered it. Three days later it was delivered. Take pictures of each step if you fell the need. Pull stove away from wall turn off the gas, unplug power cord, remove panel in back of stove that covers the electrical, unplug the ignitor/element. Move to the front of the range and remove the oven rack. Remove the cover over burner tubes, it secured with several screws. Remove wing nuts for heat shield. Carefully remove burner tubes along with the attached ignitor/element. You will have to carefully guide the ignitor wires out with the burner tubes. Unscrew ignitor from the burner tube, attach new ignitor/element. Reverse the steps.

I got from you good quality Knobs from KitchenAid brand (I tried them from a friend Range and then fit perfectly), and I easily replaced all of them, in less that 5 min.

ordered new broiler pan

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

unscrewed screws in the back of the stove. inside the stove, replaced the old bake igniter with the new one and connected the electrical wire in the back of the stove.

Removed two screws on sensor in the oven. Pulled out stove and after unplugging same removed the back panel. Sensor has an electric connection on the rear of the oven with a connection that is easily separated. Threaded new sensor electrical connection through inside of oven and connected on the back of stove. Pushed insulation back around the wire were in goes through to the oven. Replaced back on stove and screwed in two screws which hold sensor inside the oven. Replaced back cover on stove, plugged it in and pushed it back in place. Did the trick for me..

Replaced thrm

It was very easy to repair. Unscrewed a few screws and screwed the door handle on the glass first then screwed the glass onto the door. Don't forget to clean the glass on the inside of door and the new piece of glass BEFORE you screw it back together! Don't want to have to do it again!

Followed instructions I found online at the Maytag site.

very simple fix. I removed the bake burner cover (the blue cover on the bottom of the oven), under that is the oven baffle which is held on with one wing nut and removed that. Then remove the oven bake igniter screws(two on the side), remove the orifice cover scew and remove then remove the oven bake burner gently. once these parts are off you need to remove the screws on the back of the oven ( I believe theres about 4 or 5 along each side and there are 4 on the bottom of the large metal plate. you only need to remove the large metal cover every thing else stays put. Disconnect the lower back burner attatchment which just clips into the connecter. once thats removed the part should come out easlily from the inside of the oven. Now take the new bake ignitor and feed the wires through the opening on the inside of the oven that allows the wires to come through to the back of the oven(you may need to feel around for the wires and move some of the insulation aside to feel them) once the wires come through the back connect the new part by clipping it to the harness the old part was removed from. At this point you should be able to reassemble the back of the oven exactly the way it was removed.Now go back to the inside of the oven, replace the bake burner gently over the bake burner orifice and put the orifice cover back on and reattach with it's screw. Position the bake igniter back into place on the side of the bake burner and replace the two screws previously removed. Once thats in place its time to put the oven baffle back on and secure with the wing nut and the last step is to place the bake burner cover. Just set the oven to bake and it should be working if thats in fact the problem..Good luck. Took me less than 15 minutes to fix.Some find it easier to remove the oven door but I didn't need to do this since I had enough room to access the front and the back of the oven without any trouble.

My used stove had been dropped by the previous owner. While I could live with the minor scratches on one side the wooden shims holding up one corner were annoying. A new leveling leg was less than $2. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to straighten the mounting hole and screwed the new leg in. This used stove was originally $2000 but I bought it for $999. the new leg plus shipping was about $10. What a deal.

This is a no brainer. I am only doing this because you asked. Pull out the stove, tilt it back, remove broken leg, install new leg.

Removed six screws on the valve cover using Phillips head screw driver. Three are along the top on the burner side and three are underneath, needing the upper oven door to be opened to gain access. Removed the old valve using screwdriver and 7/16 end wrench. Used same tools to reassemble. Only problem is the valve retaining clamp is hard to get on unless you position it first, before connecting the valve to the line that runs off to the burner. Otherwise, it would have been fairly easy. These valves will stick if liquids are allowed to drip down and under the valve knobs. The channel in the valve stem takes the liquids down to the valve and can cause frozen valves. I bought 3 extra valves to have on hand in case of future failures.

1. Opened oven door and removed bottom covers plates to expose igniter and removed it. 2. Located hole in oven rear where the igniter connector and leads went through. 3. Pulled oven forward to allow access to rear bottom left cover plate where leads came through and removed plate to obtain access. 4. Installed replacement igniter in place of old iginter and ran its leads and connector through the oven hole. 5. Since the new igniter connector was unlike the old one, I had to replace the new igniter connector with the old one. Allowing sufficient lengths to properly make splices, I cut the igniter connectors off so that I could eventually match the mating connecter to the oven control circuit. I used a wire striper and pliers to make good splices. I covered the splices with plastic wire nuts normally used for insulating splices. I left the splices and the igniter connector outside the oven back for protection from the heat inside the oven. 6. After ensuring that oven insulation material was positioned to essentially cover the hole where the connector wires go through, I replaced the cover plate at rear of the oven and the cover plates inside the oven. 7. I checked oven for proper operation and found it now to be OK. Range was returned to normal position..problem corrected.

Remove the big back panel (5 phillips screws). Confirm voltage is present when attempting to start the oven by unplugging the PROPER ignitor. I say proper because initially I thought that the broil ignitor was the culprit. Very upper ignitor is the broiler ignitor and the next one down is the ignitor for the upper oven. You will notice that the ignitor plugs differ between broiler and oven. New ignitor should have a male end. Once I confirmed that voltage was present when attempting to turn on the upper oven and probing the ignitor terminal plug, I proceeded to remove the lower cover inside the oven (2 screws very front side) and remove the burner assembly. (First you'll need to remove the oven door, easy, just tilt out part way and slide it up and off of the rails). The ignitor is mounted to the burner assembly. It's inevitable, the 5/16 hex screws (x2) will absolutely strip out so make sure you have some extras on hand. Replace the ignitor, reinstall and you should be good to go! I've read that you shouldn't touch the element with your fingers as this will compromise the life of the ignitor. Good luck!