SVD48600BC Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

I did this job myself, but it might be handy to have a helper to assist in holding the control panel during unplug and replug stages of the process. Also strongly suggest you read through these and other posted instructions BEFORE getting started.

Kill Circuit Breaker Power To Unit.
Pull Four Burner Control Knobs off front panel.
Unscrew Phillips Head Screws from under each knob. (Be careful not to strip screw heads, I applied pretty firm pressure on screw driver to avoid stripping).
Open Oven door.
Remove 4 Phillips screws on trim piece under control panel and remove trim piece.
Unscrew 1 small Phillips screw on each side of panel to loosen plastic side trim pieces.
Use socket to remove 4 hex head screws holding control panel in place.
Gently pivot control panel top downward to access the circuit board panel. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO ALLOW CONTROL PANEL TO HANG BY FRAGILE CONNECTING CABLES!!!
GENTLY unplug the two white connector cables from the board. There is a locking tab on both that you can release with a fingernail or small flathead screwdriver while gently pulling the connector upward. (These connectors snap to lock more easily when you eventually re-assemble to the replacement board).
VERY GENTLY unplug the ribbon cable. This was a bit confusing to me at first, but if you gently squeeze the two very small tabs on both sides of the black connector, you can gently raise the center body of the connector upwards about 1/8 inch. (You might find it helpful to practice how this mechanism functions on your replacement part BEFORE you do the disassembly, it's really pretty simple once you see how it works). This will take the gripping pressure off the ribbon itself and you can gently wiggle the ribbon out free from the connector taking note of the two very small alignment holes in the ribbon connector as you do so.
Now with all cables free use a socket to remove 2 hex head screws holding the circuit board to the control panel.
Now install the replacement board by simply doing all above in reverse. Take care to line up cable connections to the board properly, noting the two alignment holes in the ribbon cable to tabs in the black connector. All three connections should snap in easily without undue force.
Your range display should be good as new.

Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor.
Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.

First, thanks to PartsSelect for getting the part to me so quickly. I went to the "Instant Repairman" , checked all that applied to my problem. The answer was the sensor, 99% of the time.I used a coat hanger to pull the latch back and open the door. I watched the video and followed the instructions to remove the old sensor. The wires were melted but the plug was still good. I used one of the adapters to install the new sensor, then replaced the two screws inside the oven. I pulled the stove out because I had read in the reviews that you needed to get the plug behind the insulation away from the oven wall. I was lucky ,there was a small hole in the back ,right behind the sensor.I gently pulled the wire and plug to the back ,well away from the oven wall. Put the stove back in place ,threw the breaker and was back cooking again!! My stove has a downdraft vent, took me longer to hook the vent back up than to install the sensor..Oh yes, did I say,I am a75 year old female and I did it all myself..

pulled out the old door gasket, it had little diamond-shaped clips, pulled out really easily, replaced with the new gasket. All the clips fit into the proper holes, stuffed the new ends where the old ones were. Perfect. less than 10 minutes. Thanks....

Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.

i'm writing this several days after installling parts and from memory so forgive me if i miss a step or get the # of screws wrong.

Clock assembly replacement was very easy. Open oven door and remove screws just below the display panel, remove burner knobs and remove the 2 screws hidden by the knobs, remove the 2 screws holding the side triangular pieces (1 screw for each side). you may need to pull range out and away from the counter to remove the triangle pieces. remove the display panel, flip it over and remove 2 screws holding clock assembly. gentle remove the ribbon cables from the old assembly and then perform everything in reverse to reassemble.

Replacing the igniters was more difficult and took up the bulk of the time. Warning: find some way to test the spark module first. I replaced both igniters (1 wire was broken so it needed replacement for sure, but the other igniter may have been good...) and they still do not work. I'm waiting on delivery of a spark module.

remove all burner stuff (grill, burner assembly, etc.), then remove the top of the stove, there are 2 screws on each side and several in the back, there are also screws around the inside rim of the burner pans. also remove the panel on the back of the stove, this allows access to the spark module. gently lift the burner pans, reach underneath the pan and unscrew the nut holding the igniter in place. fortunately mine were easy to unscrew and i could do it with my fingers, getting a wrench underneath would have been a challenge. unhook the igniter wire from the spark module and remove the old igniter. install new igniter in reverse and reassemble.

The hardest part was learning how to access the electronic clock assembly. Once I figured that out the rest was easy. Finding your web site to locate parts was great. Having the esploded diagram for the Jenn Aire was very helpful.

I did only tokeout the four tips balves like a screw 1/2 in. And replace the otherones and is it. Less than 5 minutes for all four to replace

easy to put in

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.

As the video described I just unscrewed the sensor from inside the oven. Although I couldn't pull the wiring harness through the insulation (the wires were gathered in back with a wire tie) just four screws to loosen the back panel for access to the connection. My wife says it seems to be heating perfectly now.

Removed the two screws holding the element in place. I then pulled the element and wiring out until I saw the connecter. I disconnected the two wires and then chose the correct connector from the package, snapped it back into place, put the screws back, turned on the breaker then tested the oven and found that everything was working correctly.
This is the second time I have ordered from Part Select, the first time was for a front LED panel on the same appliance. With the help finding the part you need and the comments from other customers I have saved a lot of money by repairing these problems myself. Oh, and the best part is the look on my husband's face when he came home and found out the repairs were made by me and not a repairman that he said I should call. He said he would laugh when the first repair by me didn't work but who's laughing now : )

Turned the circuit breaker to "off"
Unbolted the unit from its cabinet (4 screws - visible when the oven doors are open - secured the unit in its cabinet)
Slid the unit out of the wall about 2 inches
Removed the control panel.
Unbolted the cooling fan assembly
Unplugged the assembly from the wiring harness
Removed the cooling fan from the oven

Plugged in the new cooling fan
Bolted the new fan in place
Replaced the control panel
Slid the unit back into position
Bolted the unit in place
Turned the circuit breaker back on
Tested

No problems - the hardest part was having to reach to the back of the oven from the front.

I turned off the burner and allowed it to cool. I then checked the website for the part and also got a new grease filter and grill grate. When the parts came, I plugged in the new grill burner, replaced the grill grates, and dropped the filter in place. Total time was about 8 or 10 minutes--most of which was opening the packages. The grill burner is designed so that it can be removed and replaced with a standard 2 burner unit. No tools were needed. I was glad to find the parts for my 17 year old dual-fuel range.

First I removed the two screws that hold the bake element. I then pulled it out far enough to disconnect the two wires, and reversed the process to connect and secure the new element. I then removed the screws located under the control panel that held it in place. I removed the wiring, 3 cable connections, from the clock circuit board, and the two screws holding it in place. I installed the new circuit board, and reconnected the wiring, and returned the control panel to its place. The wife was upset that she had offered to do some of my chores while I fixed the oven when she found that it had only taken me 10 minutes to make the repairs. The parts were a perfect match, and the job couldn't have gone any smoother.