SVE87600B Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

The expert said to replace the clock control and linked to the replacement part. The part was promptly shipped. The only difficult part of the repair turned out to be the removal of the ribbon from the old controller. I noted the tabs on the side of the ribbon receptacle and expected the ribbon to release when these were pushed in. What was actually needed was to not only push in but also to pull upward on the tabs in order to release the ribbon. That was not obvious and it took me a while to get the ribbon released.

The range had to be pulled away from the wall to access all of the retaining screws. Once all the screws were removed, the top was easily lifted away, allowing easy access to the clock unit. Three wire connectors were also easily disconnected, and the clock was secured by only two accessible screws. Reassembly was straight-forward; the only difficult, and time-consuming part was sliding the range back against the wall, as tolerances were tight. The repair took 45-60 minutes and the clock shines brightly!

Open the door and remove the top screws holding the hinge retainer plates. Remove the three screws holding the glass in place at the bottom, the three screws and two nuts holding the top cover. Remove the glass, then the two screws holding the hinge in place. Reverse order for reassembly. Easy fix, but don't do what I did. I went cheap and only replaced the side that was bad only to have the other side go bad a few weeks later. Change both at the same time.

I removed the 4 screws that hold the control assembly to the range and observed that the clock assembly/control board appeared easy to remove.

Ordered the replacement board and it came a day sooner than the shipping I paid for. Only took about 10 minutes to take the control assembly off again and install the new.

There were no instructions with the part....the ribbon connection to the board was a little tricky to figure out...when I first released the clamps that held the ribbon to the board and pulled the ribbon out, I thought I damaged it....never seen a connection like this.

The range works fine now but it should be noted that this part is the logic control board for the entire range. The board malfunctioned over a period of time. First time, the entire oven shut down in the about half way through the preparation of Thanksgiving meal a few years ago. I couldn't bring it back to life and luckily, we had another oven to finish the turkey.

Next, we had trouble with the electronic pilots on the burners. You would turn the knob for one burner and it would attempt to light another burner.

Then the oven would not shut off when the Cancel/Off button was pressed. Would have to go and trip the main breaker to turn off the oven!

This replacement part cost $126 which is a bargain considering a new oven would cost over $2000. And it works great now. But I don't trust this appliance and I get this feeling that I threw good money after bad.

However, my experience with PartSelect was great and I will use them again. I just hope I don't have to spend more money on this applicance.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

Replaced Clock display. This brought most functions back to life, but still had a problem with left side burners. Switched left and right burner displays, problem stayed on left side. Membrane switch panel was suspect as had switch bounce problem. Posted membrane switch repair question on All About Circuits forum. Received reply that membrane switches cannot be repaired, only replaced. Ordered new membrane switch panel and that solved the problem.

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

I only had to unscrew two screws to remove the existing element. Unfortunately, when I removed the element I found that the electrical wire connected to it had melted off, so the element is actually still good. I had to strip the wire back and put a new wire connector on. Once that was done I hooked the element back on and screwed it back together.

1. Remove four screws on metal panel between top and lower oven doors. Pull the panel forward. You may need to open the top door partially to ease removal of panel.
2. Reach behind panel and unplug wire connector from old switch.
3. With panel free, squeeze ears on old switch and push through opening to remove.
4. Insert new switch in to hole and push from front to seat the switch. BE CAREFUL NOT to mess with the ears--if you try to splay them out (to better seat the switch) the switch will come apart.
5. Hold the panel up to opening to connect the wire harness to the switch.
6. Realign the metal plate to holes for screws and insert screws. (You may have to twist and turn to get the panel lined up.)
Done!

My husband did the repair. He had difficulty removing the old element, probably because it had been in there for 20 years. Once he got the old element out, it took less than 30 minutes to install the new one.

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.

Make sure you turn breaker off install both wires and screw the bracket into the back of the oven. You could use a phillips screw driver but with my ovens age seemed like it wanted to strip it out so I used a socket instead. Turn on the breaker and it works like new

Ordered the part. when it arrived-quite speedily, I just unpacked it and put the cotton gasket around the glass and screwed it to the proper place in the oven. Very easy.

We simply removed the front knobs, the 8 screws underneath the front panel and dropped down the control panel. We removed two screws holding the assembly and removed the ribbon cable and the two other connectors. We put the new one in and reattached all the cables and reassembled and it worked great. Took 15 - 20 minutes.