D156W Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Removed two nut screws (accessed with oven door open) with nutdriver, panel dropped out. Transferred wiring one-by-one to new switch, removed old switch with allen wrench, installed new switch, replaced panel. Done! However, the problem is not corrected and all other possibilities have been explored with no solution in site. Ideas needed.

lift out old filter, wash, put in new filter.

Easy job. Anybody can do it. This replacement is accessed from inside the oven.

1. Remove the two Phillips sheet metal screws that attach the backing element plate to the back wall of the stove.
2. Carefully and slowly pull out the element as far as you can to expose the two Faston connectors and wire.
3. While holding the heating wire exiting the baking element with the needle nose pliers, carefully remove each female Faston connector.
4. Installation of the new heating element is the reverse of above. I highly recommend that you use the needle nose pliers to hold the heating wire behind the male (spade) Faston connector while installing the female connector. This will prevent bending of the heating wire.
5. I also recommend turning on the new baking element to a high temperature for about 10 minutes with the door partially open to get rid of the new heating element odor before you bake any food.

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

Unscrew the two screws. Pull the element out a few inches. Unclip the wires by pulling them apart. When we did this the wires retracted back into the opening. It was difficult to reach them and pull them back out. Be sure to hold the wires or clip something on them to hold them out till you can attach the new element. Attach the new element wires and screw the plate back on.

Opened oven door, took four screws out of the front control panel, removed the two screws holding the burner control switch to the front panel, removed the wires from the old switch one at a time and installed them on the new switch. secured the new switch to the front panel, put the four screws back into the front panel, and closed the oven door. Real easy repair.

Remove Vent Cover, Remove Old Filter, Replace With New Filter, Replace Vent Cover, Repair Complete

We cut off the electricity to the stove before touching anything. We removed the 2 screws on the plate that is mounted to the inner wall of the oven. Then we pulled the element out 2-3 inches and disconnected the wires. We connected the wires on the new bake element and pushed it into place, inserted the screws and DONE!

The bigger part of the "repair" was the clean up of the fire extinguisher residue inside the oven due to the fire.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.

This same repair 2 years ago thru a Factory repair "professional" had cost $200. My cost $42.00!! Cost to replace the entire range...$1700.00.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

easy enough. Before you start, draw a picture of where the wires go on the old switch ( or take a picture).

Removing the oven door and several layers of metal to get to the seal, is a fairly easy process. Our door had three different fasteners, torx head screws to remove the door, a very small flat head screwdriver to remove the chrome door trim screws, and a nut driver to remove the inner panels and glass. The replacement seal is over-large and must be trimmed. Care should be taken when fitting the integrated wire. Bending at the corners only, makes assembly much easier. Reassembly is the reverse of diassembly. Care must be taken that the seal wire hasn't popped out of it's seat when the cover is installed. This is the most time-consuming and frustrating part of the repair. Patience is paramount to get a good fit. Because I had made an odd bend in it, about one inch of wire was not properly seated after the cover was seated and tightened down. I was able to gently squeeze it into the seat with a flat tip screwdriver without removing any screws. The final problem area is reinstalling the door. Although two people would be helpful to accomplish this Task, I was able to accomplish it with the aid of a three foot piece of 2x4. By wedging the piece of lumber behind both hinges, they were held open under tension to allow slipping the door on. Once partially installed, the 2x4 can be removed and the door seated. Hope this helps.

Removed the door removed 2 inner panels Installed and reassembled A Cake Walk NOTE be careful not to strip threads