D156W Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

needed hammer to help loose screws .pulled out and replaced leement

First checked to see if there was power to the heating element. There was , so I knew the element was bad. I ordered a new heating element and it came in 3 days! I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Reversed the procedure with new element. Turned on oven and my wife cooked a delicious meatloaf.

The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

Took parts off from under the range, and replaced the motor. Then put the unit back under the stove and connected the vent.

Everything went fine. No trouble.

removed blower housing secured to floor with two screws then removed flexible vent pipe from blower housing then removed blower removed blower wheel and motor put new motor and wheel on put back on stove thats it..

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

Regrettably I have been unable to replace the bake element since the two screws are completely stuck. This doesn't appear to be a common problem.

Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.

Just replaced old with new, it plugs in same as old.

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!

Move stove out from wall. Unplug from power. Removed four screws from the left side of the back (the side the light socket is on. Reach in and unplug the two wires on the back of the bulb socket assembly. Inside the oven, remove the bulb cover and the two screws holding the socket assembly. Remove assembly. Install bulb in new assembly, reattach the assembly to the oven back, reinstall the bulb cover. On the back of the stove, replug the two wires and replace the screws on the stove's back cover. Replug the unit to power and move back into position.
Sounds harder than it is. The worst part is reaching inside the oven to get at those bits.

First thing
disconnect from electricity
Remove the back cover by unscrewing its fixing screws
Using philips screw driver, To remove the scocket assembly, pull the tow electric wires from the socket, using a fine plier.
Open the oven door and unlock the glass cover and remove it.
Remove the 2 screws fixjing the socket from inside the oven.
Now the socket is ready to be disassembled by just pushing the clips with tow fingers.
Replace the socket and do same steps in reverse way.
insert the lamp, and the glass cover, connect the electricity and you are done.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.