D156W Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

I removed about 8 screws to disassemble the door to get the gasket in. This was an easy task. On the first use of the oven, it shattered one pane of the double glass door window. I think I installed it backwards since one pane is tempered glass, I believe. I installed the new window and am heating it up now - hope it doesn't break.

Removed two screws near the hinges and removed door and laid it on counter.
As we removed screws from each part of the door, we stacked the parts in the order removed. Tossed screws into a shallow pan for safekeeping.
Removed old seal and put new one in its place.
Reassembled parts in reverse order as I cleaned each one.
Put door back on the hinges and the job was done.
Would have been a much quicker job, but door had 24 years of dribbles down in it, and needed a good cleaning.

We ordered a new element also, as the old one had blown up. Very gratifying to know there were still parts for my favorite old range.

The hardest part of the repair was getting the old cruddy screws out of the old element. They were sort of "baked-in". Once we got the screws out the rest was really easy. Just inserted the element prongs & screwed the new ones in. Ordering & receiving the part was a snap...I would recommend your company to anyone. Thank you.

The hardest part was breaking the caulk seal between the range and the cabinet. An extra set of hands made the job easier, by holding the panel while I connected the switch. The switch was delivered promptly and I am very happy with Parts Select. I found the other repair stories very helpful.

Much to my horror, what was described as a simple, 15-minute replacement, took 3 days! In order to replace the oven door gasket, I had to disassemble the entire door. Every photo I saw of the gasket showed it as a flexible part: gently pull out the old one and push in the new. What I received in my order had a frame. In order to replace it, I needed to unscrew the door parts. Unfortunately, I made a few rookie errors, primarily because I kept thinking the next screw would release the gasket frame. So I neglected to keep track of the screws I removed, and I didn’t take any photos!
I must have used half a roll of masking tape to keep parts together; I did not have 5 hands! When I released everything and nestled in the frame, I had even more trouble replacing all the screws I took out. The majority of holes did not line up. So I just did the best I could, put in as many screws as I could. But after three days of working, I finally finished. It all held together, and the door did what it was designed to do. Really a repair horror. And I am not an incompetent novice!

First Inserted 2x4x 36" length of wood behind the spring loaded door hinges to ease removing the oven door as I worked alone (this was recommended in a previous post and was essential when working alone, TY). Removed 2 retaining screws on the interior side of the door at the hinge locations. Slid the door up an off the hinges, moved door to a cloth pad protected work bench. Took the door and glass panels apart removing all the related screws, retaining clips; taking note of screws, retaining clip and panel locations for reassembly. Removed the insulation, removed the glass window pack, and removed of all rust fragments (dust) between the 2 glass window panels. The glass window pack metal molding retainer, on the oven interior side of the glass window had completely rusted away. Removed the existing oven door gasket. Cleaned the glass door window pack, and interior side of the oven door surface. Installed the new gasket, which fit very well. Tightened the loose door handle screws. Reassembled in reverse order all door components noted above, and replaced the door onto the hinges, fastened the 2 door hinge screws, removed the 2x4x36" wedge holding the hinges in the open position, and closed the door. Job complete. Thanks to previously posted directions as a good guide. Hope this helps as well.

Fortunate to have the replacement parts available.
Wish a replacement door window pack was available, as the double glass, metal edge seal is deteriorating, and the metal molding retainer that held the glass in place is completely rusted away on the oven side of the existing window pack. Plan to find heat resistant caulk to seal the glass in the door, in lieu of the metal molding glass retainer.

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

remove two screws, pull out element, diconnect two wires, toss old element,plug in wires to new element, replace two screws and viola- done

Now if you just sold faucet parts I'd be all set.

First I removed the four torx screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
Then I installed the new element in reverse order. Recycled the cardboard box and the old element.

Replace filter

Simple plug in.

Ordered the leveling bolts, very fast shipping, parts correct as shown. Purchased a condo by the shore, frige had no levelers, they went in smoothly & was done in no time.
Steve

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

Unplugged and removed the old grill element by hand and installed the replacement element by plugging it into the socket. Tools were not required for this and it took less than five minutes. The new element is great and heats much better than the original did before it broke.

I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.