JAS014J3 General Electric Range - Instructions

Moved into a house built in 1976 about 7 years ago that came with an old but nice looking GE electric stove.
Stove worked well until about a year ago when the switch for the 8" element became erratic. Having been raised where DIYS was SOP I didn't even consider calling for help instead, armed with the stove model number, I went to the internet (How on earth did I ever survive before internet?) and found this site where I quickly found the exploded view of my stove, IDed the switch, ordered and received it within a day or so. Fantastic turn around time!

Now I've never ever worked on an electric stove so I was quite methodical in my approach.

First I read the instructions (you know, when all else fails…) that came with the new switch, then I pulled the stove out, unplugged it and removed the tin back that covers the switches. I drew a diagram of the old switch orientation and which wires attached to what. Then I disconnected the wires, removed the knob and the two screws hiding behind it that hold the switch to the stove.

Oops, the new switch was not identical to the old!!

First: I noticed was that the stem for the knob was longer BUT they proved break off notches so that it can be shortened.
Second: the stem on the old switch was a half round while the new stem was square. I tried the 'half round' knob on the square stem and it went on firmly. Nothing ventured nothing gained.
Third: the terminal orientation did not match. So armed with my diagram and the instructions I made sure I knew which terminal was which (they are labeled). Once assured I knew what went where (I made notes) I installed the new switch and attached the wires (following my notes).

Being an optimist I reinstalled the tin back, plugged the stove in and pushed it back into position before (with my legs, arms and fingers crossed) I tested the switch (which was not easy considering the position I was in). Lo and behold, no puff of smoke and…ta-da…everything worked as it should.

All in all, upon receiving the switch the whole thing took less than 30 minutes.

Recent.

Less than two weeks ago one of the 6" elements fell apart, still worked but lost the supports that rest on the trim ring. Back to the internet to ordered a new element and new trim rings (just for the cosmetics). Again great service, I think I received my order the second day.

Along with the element they also supply new screws plus the spring clips which hold the ceramic insulator together. There's only two wires to contend with so its easy to determine which is the left wire and which is the right. The old terminal screws were locked in pretty good so I used pliers to hold the terminal while loosening them. There's very little slack in the wires so it was a tad awkward reattaching them to the new element.
I did notice that the threaded hole on the new element seemed to be slightly larger than the old. I noticed this when I used the old screws, one would tighten, the other did not so I replaced with the screws they supplied (Duh!). Well I do have an excuse, the new screws were longer which I feared would prevent the insulator from 'closing'.
I probably spent the most time attaching the insulator. I found I needed to fiddle with position of the terminals before the two halves of the insulator would meet. I splayed the wires out slightly then cocked the wire ends slightly so that the wires would neatly leave the side of the insulator. I also adjusted the terminals and the bendable wire part on the element so that they were parallel to each other.

ANYBODY can do this

Removed two clips that held the ceramic insulators in place. Removed two screws that held conductors to the burner. Replaced screws onto new burner unit, replaced ceramic insulators. Fastened clip to burner onto the range. Turned burner on and it worked great. Thank you for your quick responce to my order.

Removed trim ring and drip pan, loosened retaining nut and replaced the burner. I was very impressed at the fast service from your company. Thank You

Repair went a lot faster and easier than I anticipated. Instructions are similar to those posted by others.
1. Verify that new gasket looks mostly like old gasket as best you can since not all of old gasket is visible.
2. Shut off circuit to oven (optional, but good practice)
3. Remove racks, trays, etc from oven to reduce weight at Step 7
4. Remove oven door by partially opening door to broiler position (about 20 degrees). Door should catch and stay open on its own. Slide up and lift off door. The “hinges” are spring loaded so carefully return them to closed position so they won’t snap shut on fingers.
5. Remove Phillips screws, one on each side wall of oven liner.
6. Remove two hex screws and metal gasket-holder on top center of oven liner.
7. Pull and slide oven liner out of oven mainframe about 1/4 “ to 3/8”. This may be the most difficult part of the job.
8. If possible to remove just a couple of inches of one bottom of old gasket (right side is easiest), verify that the cross-section profile of both old and new gaskets are essentially the same. If not, you have the wrong gasket.
9. Pull and remove old gasket. If gasket is dry and cracking, it may be necessary to scrape it out with putty knife, flat-blade screwdriver, etc. if it has fused to metal over the years. Note how it was installed on the metal edge of the oven liner.
10. Locate the mid-point on the new gasket length and begin inserting it at the top-center of the oven liner where you removed the two hex screws. Continue installing along both left and right sides of the liner. Each end of the gasket should extend to just above the respective hinge. No trimming should be necessary. Ensure a snug fit all along each side and top.
11. Push liner back into oven mainframe. Replace Phillips screws, gasket-holder, and hex screws.
11. Pull out each hinge to broiler position.
12. Replace door by sliding down onto hinges. Close door and check for tight fit against gaskets. Gaskets will flatten somewhat over time
13. Restore power, racks, trays, etc.

Took Switch panel off range. Disconnected Infinite switch. Reinstalled infinite switch.. Replaced panel. Repair was very simple and self explainatory.
Knott County Housing Authority Maintenance Personnel

Replaced the burner. Still no heat. Decided to take the front off and test the connections (Power Off!). Found no output from switch to burner. Ordered new switch from PartSelect. Switch arrived in 24 hours, just like the burner (I'm in FL, but still fast!) My only problem was that the know didn't quite fit -- too long. Cut the metal correctly, but still too long. Had to cut the plastic adapter slightly. Now it fits like the others, but it's not quite as secure due to shortening the piece that slides on the metal shaft.

Read and follow the instructions. Be careful when stripping old wires to attach to new element. Fit the element to ceramic casing prior to attaching wires. If new element does not seem level after replacement heat a large pot of water. The element will expand and the weight of the pan of water will settle the element. "Physics 101"

A friend had stopped by and insisted on replacing the heating element on my 32 year old range. It took him all of 45 minutes to replace it, and now it works like a charm.

removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.

Followed instruction that came in the new parts. Each element took about 10 minutes to remove, inspect the wires, clean the connections and reconnect the new elements. The element covers that came with the kit were easy to install, and everything fit just fine. Most important thing is to turn of the electrical power to the unit BEFORE you start.

I looked for a new terminal locally, but no one had s terminal that would fit a 40-year old range. I went on line to PartSelect and could not find my model range, so I looked through all the terminals listed on the website (about 500) but found only one that was close to mine. Mounting holes did not match, but it had 3 connectors with 220 capability, so I ordered it. I requested express shipping by UPS and thought I paid for the extra charge. When I got notification of shipment. I saw it was via ground. It went from Louisville to Jacksonville to Clearwater, FL. I ordered it on Thursday night and received it the following Tuesday night. Meanwhile, we had no stove to cook on. When the part came, it took two days to get the contractor back to our condo. He drilled new holes on the mounting box and jerry-rigged the wiring to make it fit. The range is now working, but I was disappointed in the delay in shipping which I agreed to express shipping.

I initially only purchased the heating element since this usually the cause of the broil element not functioning well. It took a little longer to receive because I had to order it over the Holidays. Once it arrived it was very easy to replace. It worked very well after installation but the broil element still did not function. I then purchased the broil element and received it within approximately 4 days. It took just a little more time to replace because there was a brace that was attached to the upper oven that helped to hold it in place. Once the wires were attached with the screws it worked very quickly. It's nice to have my oven back in use again!

Unplug range from its 220V source. Make sure range is not hot from recent usage. You’ll need a #2 Philips driver, preferably one with 14-18 inch length. The old screws will likely be very stubborn about coming loose. Two of them hold bottom element in. Remove the back panel so access to the two connectors on the bottom element are easily removable. Be very careful not to the let the wire connectors from the heating element drop down into the insulation. For the top element, there are four screws holding it in place, I found it was easier to access these two screws leaning the range backward at a slight angle. Take special care again not to let the wires drop down into the insulation. The connectors to the old element will likely need some extra effort to remove. The reconnection to the new elements should be ok. Make sure all screws go back in that were removed. The new elements will be amazing, and baking and broiling will be like new again.

1. Turn off power to range and remove element.
2. Remove clips from ceramic guards.
3. Disconnect wiring.
4. Connect wires to new element.
5. Install ceramic guards and clips
6. Attached element to range.
7. Restore power.

The package arrived with the bake element and two terminal screws.

It looks like this replacement would fit a number of different models made by GE. The mounting plate has a number of mounting holes to fasten the element to the oven cavity back plane. The leads are shorter and spaced closer together. The part I received did not match the one pictured on this site.

1. Unplug range
2. Open oven door and remove racks by sliding back and lifting out.
3. Loosen and remove the two element mounting screws.
4. At the back of the unit, remove the black cover by loosening and removing three screws, on at the bottom and two at the top.
5. Loosen and remove the two terminal screws and discard them.
6. At the front of the range, lift out and remove the old element. Insert the new element.
7. Position the mounting plate so a pair of mounting holes match the old screw positions on the back plane. Use the old screws to secure the element.
8. At the back of the unit, bend down the leads gently if the lead terminals are not accessible with a screw driver. About 30 degrees.
9. Use the new screws to attach the wire leads to the two terminals.
10 Reattach the black cover using the original screws.
11. Plug in the unit.
12. Test by turning on the bake selector, Open the oven door. Open a window or turn on a vent
13. When the element is cherry red, all the oils used in manufacturing boil off. Turn off the unit. Allow to cool. Reposition the range and it is ready to use.