JAS014J3 General Electric Range - Instructions

1. Turn off power to range and remove element.
2. Remove clips from ceramic guards.
3. Disconnect wiring.
4. Connect wires to new element.
5. Install ceramic guards and clips
6. Attached element to range.
7. Restore power.

The package arrived with the bake element and two terminal screws.

It looks like this replacement would fit a number of different models made by GE. The mounting plate has a number of mounting holes to fasten the element to the oven cavity back plane. The leads are shorter and spaced closer together. The part I received did not match the one pictured on this site.

1. Unplug range
2. Open oven door and remove racks by sliding back and lifting out.
3. Loosen and remove the two element mounting screws.
4. At the back of the unit, remove the black cover by loosening and removing three screws, on at the bottom and two at the top.
5. Loosen and remove the two terminal screws and discard them.
6. At the front of the range, lift out and remove the old element. Insert the new element.
7. Position the mounting plate so a pair of mounting holes match the old screw positions on the back plane. Use the old screws to secure the element.
8. At the back of the unit, bend down the leads gently if the lead terminals are not accessible with a screw driver. About 30 degrees.
9. Use the new screws to attach the wire leads to the two terminals.
10 Reattach the black cover using the original screws.
11. Plug in the unit.
12. Test by turning on the bake selector, Open the oven door. Open a window or turn on a vent
13. When the element is cherry red, all the oils used in manufacturing boil off. Turn off the unit. Allow to cool. Reposition the range and it is ready to use.

replaced burner ( attached wth 2 screws )

Removed the hinge mounting screw and disconnected the wiring. Hooked up the new element and replaced the mounting screw. A quick and easy $45 repair (part +shipping) that I am quite pleased with. Jim W., Marco Island, FL

remove 2 screws pull out, and had a little trouble with the 2 power lines(breaker turned off), as they were around 60 years old, used a nut driver, and plyers to hold leads, and reversed to install. went well considering the age of the oven. tested, broiler works well,(let it heat up for appx 2-3 min to burn off dirt, etc)

Unplug range from its 220V source. Make sure range is not hot from recent usage. You’ll need a #2 Philips driver, preferably one with 14-18 inch length. The old screws will likely be very stubborn about coming loose. Two of them hold bottom element in. Remove the back panel so access to the two connectors on the bottom element are easily removable. Be very careful not to the let the wire connectors from the heating element drop down into the insulation. For the top element, there are four screws holding it in place, I found it was easier to access these two screws leaning the range backward at a slight angle. Take special care again not to let the wires drop down into the insulation. The connectors to the old element will likely need some extra effort to remove. The reconnection to the new elements should be ok. Make sure all screws go back in that were removed. The new elements will be amazing, and baking and broiling will be like new again.

I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My knob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

followed instruction that came with the parts. Looks great and was easy to install.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

I held a flashlight directly on the repair sight while my husband disconnected the old burner unit and put on the new. The extra light was essential as it's kind of dark and part of the repair takes place partly under the stove top and our bodies were blocking the light coming from above. Also pay attention to how it is put together and make a note of it before you take it apart. Other than that it was very easy to replace the bad burner.

I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.

Ordered part on Thursday - it arrived the next day -
I repaired the Stovetop burner the following morning.
all went well, even tho I found another element wiring
routing wrong and correct it as well while there. It's
all working well now.

Cut the power off to the range, unscrewed the burner from range and pulled off the element and unscrewed the two screws