JBV42G304 General Electric Range - Instructions

The very first thing we did was turned the circuit breaker off and unplugged the range.
My husband removed the back panel and unplugged the switch. Drew a diaghram of the color coded wires. When we received the new one he broke the extension bar off to fit the knob, plugged it in and we were back in business. It was very easy for my husband as he is a mechanic (millwright). However, if you are mechanically inclined it is an easy fix.

First I removed the one screw that hold the terminal block in place. I then pulled the terminal block out about 3 inches and unscrewed the two screws and disconnected the two wires. Then I got the new terminal block and re-attached the two wires with the two screws. Then I screwed the terminal blocked with the one screw and then I inserted the 8" Surface Element and I turned it on and it heated up very quickly. It works better than it has in many years.

The interesting part of this story was troubleshooting the problem. Was it the element or the control? Turns out the element was making poor contact, generating excess heat ,which corroded the element contact generating even more heat, and so on and so on until the termional block eventually broke. The repair itself was simple once I separated the element from the terminal block. After that I removed the terminal block, one screw, removed the connecting wires, two screws, reversed the procedure to install the the new terminal boplck and element. Before the whole process began I made sure to turn the breaker to OFF.

I looked for a new terminal locally, but no one had s terminal that would fit a 40-year old range. I went on line to PartSelect and could not find my model range, so I looked through all the terminals listed on the website (about 500) but found only one that was close to mine. Mounting holes did not match, but it had 3 connectors with 220 capability, so I ordered it. I requested express shipping by UPS and thought I paid for the extra charge. When I got notification of shipment. I saw it was via ground. It went from Louisville to Jacksonville to Clearwater, FL. I ordered it on Thursday night and received it the following Tuesday night. Meanwhile, we had no stove to cook on. When the part came, it took two days to get the contractor back to our condo. He drilled new holes on the mounting box and jerry-rigged the wiring to make it fit. The range is now working, but I was disappointed in the delay in shipping which I agreed to express shipping.

Drilled out the screw on one wire as it was corroded to the metal socket. Sanded both wire terminations. Installed wires into terminal block. Reassembled all loose parts and installed into burner slot. Worked perfectly.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My knob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.

Unplugged oven from mains.

Removed screw holding terminal block to oven top. Used screwdriver to remove clip holding protective card to terminal block. Removed Philips screws holding wires onto terminal block.

Replacing the terminal block was just doing the above instructions in reverse. The only thing different was to put the speed clip on the range top before attaching the block to the range top.

Easy

Removed old terminal block by removing one mounting screw. Removed two wires from block. Installed new terminal block by reversing procedure.

I removed the burner, then the chrome dish. The nuts for the wires were rusted to the terminals, so I had to break the module apart and grind the nuts off.After that the new module went fine.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.