JBV42G304 General Electric Range - Instructions

First shut the power to the stove,then had to slide the stove out so I could get at the back to remove the panel screws.Once you have the back off remove the knob on the front.Under the knob is 2 phillips screws that you need to remove.Next I took the new switch and matched up the wires to the old switch.Reinstall is the reverse.Once the switch is in place you must remove the excess shaft to match the length of the old one.This is done with the use of 2 pliers,you grasp the shaft with both pliers and snap it off where you need it.The kit comes with spacers so you have got to match up the right one so the switch is solid on the shaft.This finishes the project,next turn the power back on and check that all is working ok.Job finished.

First I pulled the heating elements from sockets
Removed 1/4 " screw from socket brackets.
Removed two wires from socket , reversed procedure, tested , work fine ,wife happy, me happy.
Parts were delivered in 3 days.

I had already removed the terminal block assembly, a total of three screws. When the part arrived it was as simple as connecting the two wires in the back of the assembly (power turned off!) then one screw to attach the assembly to the stove top. Power back on and a brand new burner. The same day I went and ordered four drip pans to replace the old ones and the stove looks like new.
Finding the part at the on-line site was the best part since I tried two other sites that were not very easy.

Plug-in new element

Just pushed the new timer knobs onto the stem. They fit and now I can set the oven timer without having to use a pair of pliers to grip the stem and turn it.

Two of the knobs fit perfectly.

The stem for the the clock was broken off and there was not enough of the stem left for the new knob to fit.

Was able to slide it right in

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Took Switch panel off range. Disconnected Infinite switch. Reinstalled infinite switch.. Replaced panel. Repair was very simple and self explainatory.
Knott County Housing Authority Maintenance Personnel

orderd new gasket part removed oven door disassembled installed new gasket reassembled works great just like new

Unplugged bad surface element and plugged in replacement.

The Surface Element on our GE stove made in the mid 70's finally gave up and would not heat. I went to several of the big home improvement stove with not luck in finding the right heating element for our stove so I turned to a local appliance stove that carries GE products, they did sell me an element and asured me it was the correct one, but once again the element was the wrong one. Then with a simple google search for GE replacment parts I found partselect.com. With the detailed description and images with measuring grids I was able to quickly find the correct heating element for me stove. I am very pleased and the stove is back to 100%.
Thanks partselect.com

I found an exploded view diagram of of my microwave model which was very helpful. You need only remove outside metal skin by removing 4 screws on either side and 4 more on the back. Remove 4 plastic hole plugs from the top mounting inserts. Gently pull sides out and lift up and back to remove outer skin. The fuse is located on the back right corner behind the control panel. You access from the side. The fuse is under the spreader bar. Lift fuse up gently to remove.

P.S. It was the MSP Capaciter and or the interlock switch, snap apart 21A (19) failure that actually caused the ceramic fuse to blow.

Pulled range out from the wall. Unplugged cord from outlet. Removed old knob, removed two phillips screws a very top of chrome trim, removed six nut-head screws from back to reveal the switches...removed two set screws from the front at knob base. Visually checked to make sure wiring post of new switch matched the old one. There was enough slack in the wiring to remove one wire at a time and connect it to the new switch in its appropriate place. Put new switch in the panel and secured with the two set screws. Select the bushing that would take up the slack for the old knob to fit on the new switch stem. Held new stem at its base with pliers and used another pair of pliers to snap the stem at appropriate length. (The new stem could not be broken off short enough to have the knob as flush to the panel as the other knobs...this was the only negative factor in the repair) Replaced nut-head screws and phillips screws. I was especially pleased with the quick delivery of the part...even without special shipping rates I received the part in less than 18 hours from the time I ordered it online!

The terminal blocks become brittle and carbonized with age resulting in very poor contact with the electric burners. The burners lose capacity to heat fully and eventually stop working.

Unplug the stove first! There is a risk of dangerous electrical shock if the power is not disconnected.

Repair involves removing the burner and the drip cup to expose the terminal block. Remove one screw on top to detach the block from the stove top. Remove the insulating cover and the clip that holds it in place on the back of the block. Detatch the two wires. At this point the age and brittleness of the blocks became apparent as they crumbled in my hand while removing the terminal screws. One screw had several layers of carbonization covering it and required needle nose pliers to get a firm grip in order to loosen it.

Inspect the wires to make sure there are no holes or cracks in the insulation.

Attach the wires to the new terminal block using the new screws provided. The new kit also included quick lock screw fastener clips to place over the holes in the stove top. It's a good idea to use these for more secure mounting and better grounding. Place the new terminal block under the stove top and mount it with the new screw provided. I had to unbend the mounting clip slightly to get it to fit, but it was easy enough to do with bare fingers.

Replace the drip pan and the burner. Plug the stove back in.

A pot of water now boils in under a minute compared to the 5 to 10 minutes it used to take.