JGS905KEK2CC General Electric Range - Instructions

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Replaced worn or missing Grate Foot with new ones. Took less than 5 minutes.

Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.

Inserted the grate foot into the spot provided; after consulting the parts manuel to insure I was using the proper procedure.

I do use silicone to help hold the foot but it still won't hold

Cut off approx. 1/8" in length for correct fit.

I just removed the drawer and installed the rear supports as instructed on paper included with the part.

replaced Plastic Guides

First of all, there are FOUR panes of glass on the oven door and two different sizes. Make sure you're ordering the right pane. We initially got the wrong one and had to return/reorder.

Took door off hinges and set on table. Removed almost all screws. Two at the top are very long and almost spring loaded -- this was helpful when putting it back together.
When removing the layers, keep track of what/where screws are placed. Some are star-hole-head, some are hex-head (socket). Work slowly and carefully so as not to break additional panes of glass. Leave plenty of room in your workspace to set items aside while you get to the innermost part of the door.

For this part #, it's deep in the door layers and surrounded by fiberglass. Wear gloves so you're not itchy later. This part acts as a double-pane with a narrow aluminum frame around the two pieces of glass. Be careful not to bend the frame when removing the broken piece. One corner of the frame also has a hook-n-hole closure. Take care to not bend the hook too much.

We wiped all the glass pieces off to get all fingerprints, smudges, and baked-on foods removed. Then we put the pieces/parts back -- a lot like a puzzle. Had the oven back up and running with no problems. It may take two people to get the door back on the hinges just because of the weight and awkward position they need to clamp back together.

Replaced Spark Module and adjusted igniters

This went pretty smoothly. Watch the video and just follow along step-by-step and it goes well. It would have only taken about 30-45 minutes (even being careful and slow) but I ended up placing the glass twice (be very careful and triple check that all the insulation gets poked under the housing and none is sticking out). The first time I had a small piece sticking out. (Use gloves for this part so your hands don't itch). The second time I needed to redo part of it is I forgot one of the spacers on the door handle and had to get that in there so the handle worked properly. I also took the time to clean the oven while the door was off so that took some time. Total I probably had 1.5-2 hours into this project but at least half of that was me cleaning and being fussy. This is an easy repair. I'm not a confident repair person and this wasn't difficult. It was a little time consuming but well worth the cost vs calling a repair person or buying a new appliance. You do need to have a specialty star head on a screwdriver but my simple tool kit had all the tools I needed. The oven has been working great since the repair.

I did find instruction in the Q&A on how to to change the part was for an older oven.

Here are the instructions that matched my oven model "JGSP42SET1SS"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHg-O1-NnXM

I also had issues where the connector for the new part would not come through the hole in the back of the oven. I used a shoestring around the connector so I would have a good grip on it when I disconnected the old igniter.This allowed me to have a good grip to reconnect to the new igniter.

While you have this apart I would also recommend that you remove the burner and blow out any material that may have accumulated over the years,

Could not have been easier. All screws are 1/4 inch. Oven door can be removed to make it easier to get to screws in back of oven,but igniter can be installed with door in place. Remove bottom panel then remove four screws on flame spreader. Remove trwo screws that hold igniter in place. Replace with new igniter, it may be necessary to remove the clip on new igniter and splice the two leads. Now your cooking with gas.

Replaced new light housing.
Thanks to you guys for the prompt response

Flip toggles to release the oven door. Pull up on oven door to remove. Put door aside. Lift enamel bottom. Slide strait out. Remove aluminum shielding from around the igniter. Loosen igniter, unplug the igniter. Remove burner cowling. Plug in new igniter. Attach cowling to new igniter. Screw it all back in place. Stuff wiring connected back through the protective hole. Depress close door button and test. It takes about 10-15 seconds to ignite. Reinstall aluminum protector. Re install bottom enamel piece. Carfully slide oven door back on pegs and flip toggles to lock. Have a big glass of water and yell, Honey I fixed the oven!!