JGS905KEK2CC General Electric Range

Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.

After removing the door and the lower pan cover, I removed 4 screws holding down the flame spreader. Once the flame spreader was off, I was looking at the two screws that hold on the igniter assembly. For some reason, these seemed to be the worst part of the repair. One screw broke off at the head as soon as I tried to loosen it. The ... Read more other was apparently stripped during the initial installation. Due to lack of space to fit the dremel tool in the area, it took quite some time to remove the second screw. Once I finally got those removed, it was a piece of cake. The assembly easily pulled out approximately 4 inches to disconnect the plug. The new plug was easy to insert and push back in the cavity behind the oven. I had extra sheet metal screws, so the installation of the new assembly took less than 10 minutes. As I said, the worst part was the stripped screw and lack of space to get the proper tool to remove it.

LIke the other posters, this should have been an easy fix. From internet research my official self-diagnosis was that either the ignitor didn't work or there was a problem with a temperature sensor or control module. At $70 for the part vs. $230 to get a Sears repair main out here (in two weeks time?!), I rolled the dice and decided to o ... Read more rder the part.

Taking the door off of the oven took a bit of figuring out (back to the internet), but once you know how it's very easy - 10 seconds.

After you take off the door, you then take out what I would call a heat shield that goes across the entire bottom of the oven (no tools needed) and then remove the 'heat spreader' with a socket set. That came off easy as well. Total time maybe 5 minutes.

Then the fun started. One of the two screws that connects the igniter sheared off. Luckily it sheared in a way that it didn't hold the ignitor any more, and the other screw maintained its integrity so in the end I could re-attach the ignitor. Ignitor off in less than 5 minutes.

All the repair guides say that you just unplug the ignitor from the quick disconnect plug and replace it with the new one. Sounds great but I couldn't get to the quick disconnect - the wires wouldn't pull far enough out to reveal the quick disconnect. I could see it and feel it with a finger in the hole, but either the wires weren't long enough or it was caught on something (felt like the former). I tried pulling harder, but got to a point where I felt I was going to break something and so I stopped.

I then started looking at how I could get the back of the oven off or another way to get access to that quick disconnect. Long story short - you can't do it through the front of the oven, you have to pull the entire oven out and go through a hatch in the back of the oven. Once I had figured that out everything was ok, but it took me 2 days of poking around for 10 minutes here, going to the internet there, and back and forth to decide I couldn't get to it from the front and how exactly to pull the oven out (turns out the type with the controls on the front hangs down from the counter itself and doesn't slide out easy - it takes some elbow grease to actually do it.).

In the end I wasn't confident I could get it back in by myself if I slide it completely out, so I pulled it part-way and then climbed on the counter and then into the small space I had created behind the stove.

Everything said and done I spent a couple hours messing with this. It turns out that the wires for both ignitors were routed around each other incorrectly and when I reconnected the new ignitor correctly I could pull the ignitor through the front of the oven like you're supposed to do. Glad it's fixed, but nothing is ever as easy as it should be...