JMP28BC1AD General Electric Range - Instructions

Replaced drip pans

I just follow Steve's Installation Vidio. My range works.
Thanks Steve

Cut 4 inch’s off the new terminal block wires then using my wire strippers stripped 1/2 inch off the ends , the old terminal block wires I stripped 1/2 inch at the ends using a wire nuts on both wires and electrical tape connected the terminal block to the stove plugged the new burner in and the burner worked 100%.

I followed the instructions given to me in the package and all went well. I cut the old wires off the burnt terminal block, stripped the wires, installed the wire nuts with the shrink rap, installed the new terminal block and burner. The new burner is working great! Thanks

switched off power to oven, unscrewed old broiling unit and installed new one.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out disconnected the two wires. THE PROBLEM IS THAT THERE IS HARDLY ANY WIRE TO WORK WITH. Otherwise I would have been finished in ten minutes.

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

I simply replaced the element. HOWEVER, the most wonderful parts of this repair...Because of the pictures and closeups and descriptions I knew exactly 'what' to order! And I had the replacement in less than 24 hours. I can do some home repairs but this company provided such detailed information AND speed of delivery...that this was a no-fuss fix. I'll definitely stop by to buy, again. Thanks!

Replaced

Lined up the prongs and slid it right in, took 30 seconds.

As with all of my orders from Part Select the part was as correct and arrived in a timely manner. The installation was easy. Remove two screws, unplug the old element from the wires, install wires on new element and reinstall the element. Restored power and everything worked fine.
Thanks,
Ken Fuelleman

The only hard part about putting in a new terminal block (and this time I had to replace the burner too, because that fried too) is stripping the stove wires, because that thermal insulation is very hard to get off. Otherwise, it's simple. In this case, I had already replaced this one (sigh), so had already cut & stripped the wires, so it was all easy. Frankly, the sane thing to do is buy a new stove, but wife is too cheap.

I watched a video of a similar model to familiarize myself with the required steps needed. I opened the back and disconnected the power cord and ground wires connected to the removable socket I then removed the lightbulb and removable socket from the oven interior side. I then removed the defective light socket cup and replaced it with the part I purchased. After replacing the removable socket and lightbulb, the bracket holding the light cover functioned perfectly with the new light socket cup. Final steps were to reconnect the power and ground wires to the removable socket. I then replaced the back cover over the light socket cup area. One word of advise. Be very careful when removing and reconnecting the cables to the removable light socket.

After watching the video and ordering the parts and searching for the right size socket (which took most of the time) and finding medical tape as I had no electrical tape I took of the back unhooked the terminals and following the wires to determine which ones needed to be replaced I followed the video instructions on reverse as my son had spliced new terminal blocks into the old wires I taped each new wire to the one it was replacing and pulled it through the back of the stove and into the front attached the new wires to the new block and pushed the clips on the other end of the wires to the knob boxes. I rolled up the excess wire and taped it securely with medical tape so it wouldn't unravel and be in the way when I reattached the back shield on the stove. After I repeated the process for the second terminal (I had two that kept shorting out) I reassembled the stove plugged it back into the wall and used both burners that night to cook dinner! I have had no problems with those burners since then. Really if you watch the video first and follow the instructions you should have no problems. It is really quite simple if someone hasn't tried to repair the problems without replacing the wires. Splicing new blocks into old wires just doesn't work. If I have this problem again, which I hope I don't, I will be confident in my ability to fix the problem myself. Thank you parts select for repair video and the parts.

I UNPLUGGED THE WIRE, ASSEMBLE THE BURNER ELEMENT KITS
LIFTED UP THE SURFACE BURNER PANEL,
OPENED THE BACK RANGE COVER,
UNSCREW THE NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR, DISCONNECT THE REPLACEMENT WIRES ON THE BACK PANEL
TRACE THE NEW WIRES CLIPS TO THE BACK PANEL & TIGHTEN THEM WITH EXISTING NUTS
SCREW THE OTHER ENDS BACK WITH NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR