JBS26 General Electric Range - Instructions

The wire to the burners were old and needed replacement. When the new terminals arrived, my husband had gone hunting. When the parts arrived, I pulled the stove away from the wall and found the nut driver that I needed. I removed the screw on the terminal box under the burner and realized I had to remove the back panel of the stove. I unplugged the old wires and plugged in the new ones. I installed the new terminal boxes under the burners and plugged the burners back in. My stove works like new and I am thrilled that it was so easy. Thanks

Not really a repair. But would like to say, I like the price and shipping was super fast. Thanks.

Very easy. Followed the video instructions. Unplug stove. Cut old wires. Tape new wires to old wires to facilitate pulling new wires thru old hole to back of range. Removed back cover. Pulled old/new wires thru to back. Removed old connectors. Attached new connectors. Replaced back cover. Screwed new terminal block to front of range at burner. Attached new burner. Plugged in stove. Replaced stove in counter.

Found PartsSelect on the internet. Saw the video for replacing the Surface Burner Terminal Blocks with their kit. Turned a $400 oven replacement into a $25 quick repair, thanks to PartsSelect.

Lifted top, opened back splash, unplugged old wires and replaced with the new ones them connected to new elements

watch the vidio on your site very easy repair!i give you guy's 5 stars out of 5 !

replace element

Difficulty was in determining the right model number and part number of a switch. Noted that the left front burner came on when the switch for the left back burner was turned on. By inspection I found the left front burner switch had become faulty by actually hearing an electric arc in the switch and smelling the oder in the switch. With help from the person I called I was able to determine that the Model Number on the actual stove was wrong. It had an extra 0 between the W and F which she said was a common error in the GE model number. I then gave the switch number I found on the switch to the contact person and she was able to verify the right part number. It was relatively easy to replace the switch by taking off the back upper plate then taking off two screws that held the switch to the stove. The part came quite quickly once ordered. Sears repair wanted $75 just to diagnose then the cost of the part. I got the switch for $69.

Watched video,and used it as guideline.Biggest problem was removing tape from old wires.

Disconnected the electric burner from the terminal block, unscrewed the terminal block, removed the two back covers from the range, cut the two wires (since the wires that came with the replacement part were not long enough to reach the switch), spliced the new part to the existing wiring using wire nuts, installed the new terminal block and connected the electric burner to it. With the new terminal block in place, the burner does not lie completely flat like the old one did, but it is functional.

I simply followed the instructions on the PartSelect website. Since the range is 20 years old, I replaced all four terminal blocks. I used needle nose pliers to carefully nurse the old terminals off the burner controls, and used fine sandpaper to burnish the male contacts on the burner controls. Since the failed terminal block wire had overheated, I burnished the burner contacts that slip into the terminal blocks to eliminate any resistance that could cause overheating. So far, all burners are working great!

There was an excellent video demonstrating a very good method for replacing the terminal block at Parts Select.. I ran into a problem with the kit. The wires were too short. Instead of replacing the entire wire I needed to clip off part of the old wiring and solder the kit wires to them. I also needed to insulate the connections with electrical tape to prevent them from shorting out.

I can add nothing to the video you furnished on your website. I am generally all thumbs with home repairs - especially anything electrical - but, your video led me right through it. A good experience. We'll do business again.Thanks.

Just pulled old coil out of the plug. Replaced drip bowl and inserted new coil in. No problem.

had to pull range away from wall and unplug it so we could get behind to access the rear panel. we then removed old terminal block, by, removing screws from back panel, and one screw from under burner drip pan, inserted, new block, and reassembled. plugged it in to test and burner worked properly.