JBS26 General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- QUANG from LANCASTER, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10006
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
ONE OF SURFACE BURNER NOT WORKING
I UNPLUGGED THE WIRE, ASSEMBLE THE BURNER ELEMENT KITS
LIFTED UP THE SURFACE BURNER PANEL,
OPENED THE BACK RANGE COVER,
UNSCREW THE NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR, DISCONNECT THE REPLACEMENT WIRES ON THE BACK PANEL
TRACE THE NEW WIRES CLIPS TO THE BACK PANEL & TIGHTEN THEM WITH EXISTING NUTS
SCREW THE OTHER ENDS BACK WITH NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR
LIFTED UP THE SURFACE BURNER PANEL,
OPENED THE BACK RANGE COVER,
UNSCREW THE NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR, DISCONNECT THE REPLACEMENT WIRES ON THE BACK PANEL
TRACE THE NEW WIRES CLIPS TO THE BACK PANEL & TIGHTEN THEM WITH EXISTING NUTS
SCREW THE OTHER ENDS BACK WITH NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR
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- Customer:
- Jason from Charleston, SC
- Parts Used:
- WB2X8228
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Fix prior jimmy-rigged repair job
Prior repair job had spliced the terminal block wires with electrical tape; electrical tape caught fire while making pasta.
anyways, disconnect all power, remove burners, pull stove out. you'll need a 1/4" drive socket to get the back cover off; six bolts total. phillips head screw driver to unscrew the terminal blocks; replace with new terminal blocks; it did not seem to matter which wire plugged into the back. put everything back together. very easy.
anyways, disconnect all power, remove burners, pull stove out. you'll need a 1/4" drive socket to get the back cover off; six bolts total. phillips head screw driver to unscrew the terminal blocks; replace with new terminal blocks; it did not seem to matter which wire plugged into the back. put everything back together. very easy.
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- Customer:
- Jack from Georgetown, IN
- Parts Used:
- WB2X8228
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Burner would not stay in socket
I pulled off the back panel and the two wires were attached to the back of the know for the burner that did not work. I unhooked the wires, fed the new ones into the same slot and clipped the block in place. That was it!
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- Customer:
- Evelyn from FRANKLIN, NH
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10006
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Socket set
Two blocks kept shorting out.
After watching the video and ordering the parts and searching for the right size socket (which took most of the time) and finding medical tape as I had no electrical tape I took of the back unhooked the terminals and following the wires to determine which ones needed to be replaced I followed the video instructions on reverse as my son had spliced new terminal blocks into the old wires I taped each new wire to the one it was replacing and pulled it through the back of the stove and into the front attached the new wires to the new block and pushed the clips on the other end of the wires to the knob boxes. I rolled up the excess wire and taped it securely with medical tape so it wouldn't unravel and be in the way when I reattached the back shield on the stove. After I repeated the process for the second terminal (I had two that kept shorting out) I reassembled the stove plugged it back into the wall and used both burners that night to cook dinner! I have had no problems with those burners since then. Really if you watch the video first and follow the instructions you should have no problems. It is really quite simple if someone hasn't tried to repair the problems without replacing the wires. Splicing new blocks into old wires just doesn't work. If I have this problem again, which I hope I don't, I will be confident in my ability to fix the problem myself. Thank you parts select for repair video and the parts.
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- Customer:
- Karl from WINONA, MN
- Parts Used:
- WB2X8228
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The terminal block broke
Replaced the terminal block and used hi-temp wire connectors to place the new part into the circuit.
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- Customer:
- lucille from HAPPY CAMP, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10006
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
burner was not heating
unplug it and plug the new one in
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- Customer:
- Carolyn from Garden City, ID
- Parts Used:
- WB31T10011, WB31T10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Needed New Burner Bowls
Removed the old burner bowls, replacing them with the new ones.
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- Customer:
- Paul from PROVO, UT
- Parts Used:
- WB31T10011, WB31T10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Old drip bowls were badly tarnished . . . shine could not be restored.
1) Make sure unit switches are turned off. 2) Lift Calrod unit up and pull it from electrical receptacle. 3) Withdraw Calrod unit from old bowl. 4) Insert Calrod unit through large hole in new bowl. 5) Push Calrod electrical connectors into receptacle under range top. 6) Seat Calrod unit on bowl rim and insert the assembled Calrod unit and bowl into the hole in the range top.
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- Customer:
- Mario from RENO, NV
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10006
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
burner terminal block was worn out
I unhooked the main power cord, unhooked the worn out block terminal cut the tape that was holding all the wires together. Removed the back panel and followed the wires unhooked the 2 wires and installed the new block terminal. Tied all the wires back, attached the back panel and plugged the power cord back into the outlet. i tested the burner to see if it was working. The burner is working great, instructions were easy to follow and my wife is happy. Thank you
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- Customer:
- Charles from MECHANIC FLS, ME
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10006
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replaced the outlet the one of the top burners on top of my stove, it went very well.
I followed the instructions on the video, the only thing they left out is where the wires go through to the back of the stove being that there are sharp edges. A role of glass tape would have been handy to replace the old tape. Thanks for asking, I hope this helps someone else.
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- Customer:
- john from MILROY, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10006
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
on off switch smoked and smelled hot
standard procedure, very simple
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- Customer:
- Streeter from Millersville, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X8228
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Burner socket disintegrated...2nd time.
Unplug the stove. Remover back panel. Remove coil and pan. LIft stove top. Remove screw(s) holding element in place and follow wires to the back of the stove and disconnect. Replace with new kit. Easy.
This is the second time the unit has gone bad. None of the other three burners has ever had the problem.
Thanks for having the part available.
This is the second time the unit has gone bad. None of the other three burners has ever had the problem.
Thanks for having the part available.
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- Customer:
- Lisa from MERCER ISLAND, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X8228
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
The terminal block was arcing and flickering, the burner did not heat up
First and foremost I read each of the blogs from your site from other people who have repaired this part. It was great.
First I unplugged the stove. Removed the back plate of the stove by unscrewing 6 screws. Removed the heating element & drip pan. I lifted up the stove top to examine the receptable, and removed the receptable held in place by a single screw using the nutdriver.
Once it was removed, I cut the wires attached to the receptacle with pliers. I screwed on the new receptacle, and taped the new wires to the old ones which led back to the back panel where they were attached to the switch.
By doing so, I was able to easily lead the new wires to the back side of the stove panel. I removed each old terminal wire and replaced it with the new one. (I had read in a previous blog that the polarity of the new wires didn't matter). I replaced the drip pan, and heating element, turned the switch and everything was working just great! I replaced the back panel, and that was it!
As you probably can guess I have never attempted to repair any type of appliance...ever! But your website and the people who shared their stories empowered me to do the job. Thanks so much!
First I unplugged the stove. Removed the back plate of the stove by unscrewing 6 screws. Removed the heating element & drip pan. I lifted up the stove top to examine the receptable, and removed the receptable held in place by a single screw using the nutdriver.
Once it was removed, I cut the wires attached to the receptacle with pliers. I screwed on the new receptacle, and taped the new wires to the old ones which led back to the back panel where they were attached to the switch.
By doing so, I was able to easily lead the new wires to the back side of the stove panel. I removed each old terminal wire and replaced it with the new one. (I had read in a previous blog that the polarity of the new wires didn't matter). I replaced the drip pan, and heating element, turned the switch and everything was working just great! I replaced the back panel, and that was it!
As you probably can guess I have never attempted to repair any type of appliance...ever! But your website and the people who shared their stories empowered me to do the job. Thanks so much!
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- Customer:
- Brian from Landisville, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X8228
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
My son turned on the burner to make something and then there was a pop and stove would not work.
First I removed the burners and pulled the stove out to get the back cover off. Removed the back cover after main power was shut off. Removed old burner terminal blocks and replaced with new ones. Replaced back cover and pushed stove back into place. Turned on main power to stove checked burners and they worked. DO NOT REPLACE OR DO ANY ELECTRICAL WORK ON ANY MAJOR APPLIANCE WITH OUT FIRST TURNING OFF THE MAIN POWER SOURCE.
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- Customer:
- Charles from NEKOOSA, WI
- Parts Used:
- WB25T10041
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Hot burner light lens broke off.
Pull range away from back wall. Remove panel behind control knobs by removing the screws that hold it on. Find hot burner light that holds lens. Remove broken part of lens. Insert new lens into hole on front of control panel and into hot burner light receptacle. Replace back panel. Slide range back into place.
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