J408W1 General Electric Range - Instructions

First, turn off the power. Remove the two retaining screws, pull out the broken element far enough to unscrew the connectors, remove the element, reconnect the new element, screw it back in, turn the power back on. Yes, it is that easy! Took me all of five minutes. Took longer to find my tools!

Removed the screws. Pulled out the element and disconnected the wires. Attached the wires from the new heating element and screwed it in.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I pulled the element out and disconnected the two wires that hold it in place. I reversed the process for the new element and viola! The oven works just great. The element actually arrived a day earlier than expected. Thanks Parts Select!

My husband helped me pull the range out from the wall to unplug it, I removed the screws on the hinged bracket, pulled the wiring out a couple of inches and removed the screws attaching the element to the wiring. Then I reversed the process. Easy as pie. The most time consuming part was unplugging the range, but as it is 220v (can kill you) I consider it a nesessary step. The best part was the price and availability. I ordered the part on Sunday p.m. and got it on Tuesday p.m. at half the price quoted by a national chain.

I used a philip screw driver to remove two screws which enable me to pull the wires out about three inches from the back of the oven and replaced it with the new one after disconnecting the wires from the grill. The hardest thing was the limited space.

Turned off breaker,first . Then removed 2 nutscrews and pulled unit out , 4 inches ,removed 2 nutscrews joining the 2 wires and the 2 terminals of the bottom element. Removed bottom unit and replaced with new unit . reversing the process. Turned breaker on and tested the oven. Works fine. Took less than 15 minutes.

turn power off at circuit breaker box, remove old coil from oven, attach the new coil and attach to wall of the oven. Very easy to repair.

lift eye slide in bowl and trim ring, put the eye back down,

Removed 2 screws (with 1/4" nut driver) on bracket holding heat element at back of oven. Pull element forward to expose the 2 wires connected to element, remove screws on wire corrections with flat head screw driver. Remove element from oven......Reverse the steps to install new heat element.....very easy job....except I cleaned the oven while I had the element out of the oven.

Turn off electricity to the oven. A socket set was needed for the small screws in my old oven. Once the screws were removed the element came off easily from two wires in the oven. You have to be careful when handling the wires that they don’t fall back into the oven. The new part was attached to the two wires, screws were tightened on the new element and that was it. When the oven was turned on the new element smoked a little but I saw on the video that is normal.

I first unplugged the stove as that was easier than going to turn off the breaker. I removed both oven racks for more room to work. There were two screws to removed inside the back of the oven. After pulling the element out a few inches I was able to unscrew the two screws that held the wires onto the element. I made sure to note which wire went on which side. Then did everything backwards with the replacement element.Plug the oven back in and make sure it works. This was the easiest repair I have ever had to make on any appliance! It's good to note the new element could heat much faster and hotter than the old one. I plan to check the temp when baking. The replacement one also hinged so cleaning in the future will be much easier as well.

Before ordering the new part, made sure the problem was the burner and not the wiring in this very old stove by putting an ohmmeter on the terminals of the burner after removing it. Since it showed no conductivity, the burner was bad (could have put the voltmeter on the wires and turned on the power to ensure power was coming in......but did not want to mess with 240 volt/high amperage. With power off at the breaker, installed new burner. One caution... since the wire on the burner terminals is pretty soft, don't bend them by putting too much torque on the screws. This turned out to be my only problem.....I had to clean up the screws and work them through the copper terminals with the burner outside the oven before attempting to screw them on the wire connectors in the oven. Not a big problem, but if you bend the terminals too much when you install the burner in the oven, you run the risk of shorting them together, or breaking one. And that would be a big problem.

First I made sure the electricity was off. Then, I flipped the burner up, and loosened the screwon the hinge. This allowed the burner to extend onto the cook surface. After loosening the clips holding the ceramic insulator together, the wires to the element were exposed. The wires were then transferred to the new burner element from their corresponding position on the old one. The new ceramic insulator was affixed over the wire with clips, and the hinge reattached. The chrome ring was worked over the burner, and the burner reseated in its proper cook poistion. Testing confirmed the burner to now work as new.

Removed screws that hold element in place. Disconnected the two electrical leads. Put the new element in place, hooked up the two leads and installed the the screws that hold the element in place.

Because of the age of the oven it took a little time to loosen the screws that held the element in. Once the screws were removed it was a matter of pulling the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, then it was a matter of repeating the steps in reverse. Very quick and easy