J408W1 General Electric Range - Instructions

Lifted burner element to remove pressure on ring and drip bowl. Removed old parts and replaced in reverse order. This not intended to sound sexist, but my wife who is not particularily mechanically inclined performed the task on her own.

Just lifted the electric components Remove drip plans and trim rings and replaced with new drip pans and trim. Your company was incredible in there delivery of the parts..One day. You made my husbands very happy.

the replacement items fit really good. It was a matter of remove and replace,

Just pushed the new timer knobs onto the stem. They fit and now I can set the oven timer without having to use a pair of pliers to grip the stem and turn it.

Two of the knobs fit perfectly.

The stem for the the clock was broken off and there was not enough of the stem left for the new knob to fit.

Removed the plug from wall socket.
Removed door to oven by lifting it straight up while partially open, in locked position.
Remove Baking shelves.
Removed 2 screws @ the back of element where it goes into the ovens back wall with a nut wrench and gently pull the element towards you until wires are exposed.
Using a flat blade screw driver hold on to the end of the element near the end with the screw and support it as you un screw the wire so the end of the element does not bend as you turn the screw.
After both wires are removed, remove the old element.
Install the new Element in reverse.
Very Easy!

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. connected the wires to the new element. pushed the element back in place the screwed it back to the back of the stove.

Due to this wall oven being vintage 1972, I decided to replace the broil element along with the bake element that had actually failed. The repair was pretty straight forward as seen on the videos, altough it can be somewhat tight to use screw drivers or nut drivers with long handles. You may find that shorty screw drivers or a 1/4 inch ratchet wrench and appropriate socket are easier to work with. There were two things that I was cautious about. The first was to be very gentle with the power wires since I didn't know what condition their insulation was in. I tried not to scrape them on the sheet metal opening as I pulled them gently out through the oven insulation. Secondly, I was very, very careful in moving the oven temperature sensor probe out of the way so I could undo the broil element. Before I started the job, I had learned that this probe isn't a separate piece part, it is part of the entire THERMOSTAT ASSEMBLY for the stove and it's not readily available. Furthermore, this assembly costs $250 to $350 !!!! The only negative with this job was that the old broil element has some kind of heat resistant material on the rear of the plate that attaches it to the oven wall. This old material fell apart during disassembly. I kind of pieced it back together during assembly, but I would have liked to have been told I needed this piece (since there wasn't an exploded parts view on the web for me to look at)or a new piece of this material should have been supplied as part of the broil element.

replace with new one

Disconnected range from power. Removed small / lower shield that protects element connectors from rear of range. Disconnected the power lines from the element using screwdriver. Removed racks and liner from oven. Removed screws at rear of oven box that hold old element. Removed the old element. Reversed steps to install replacement heating element. Tested oven heating using oven thermometer.

Used socket set to remove bolts holding the elements in place, then used a screw driver to remove the wires from the elements. Replaced with new elements, screwed in the wires and reattached the elements to the wall with the bolts.
It was easy, it was just a small space to work in.

Shut power off. Removed two outer screws, pulled heating element forward and removed two more screws. Ordered part and it arrived in three days. Installed in reverse order of removal. Easy fix. Cost was reasonable.

The part arrived ahead of time by mail. I removed the old coil, very simple,, I installed the new one just as easy , Turned on oven and it worked prefectly , its a very simple procedure, thank you

Removed screws that hold element in place. Disconnected the two electrical leads. Put the new element in place, hooked up the two leads and installed the the screws that hold the element in place.

Before ordering the new part, made sure the problem was the burner and not the wiring in this very old stove by putting an ohmmeter on the terminals of the burner after removing it. Since it showed no conductivity, the burner was bad (could have put the voltmeter on the wires and turned on the power to ensure power was coming in......but did not want to mess with 240 volt/high amperage. With power off at the breaker, installed new burner. One caution... since the wire on the burner terminals is pretty soft, don't bend them by putting too much torque on the screws. This turned out to be my only problem.....I had to clean up the screws and work them through the copper terminals with the burner outside the oven before attempting to screw them on the wire connectors in the oven. Not a big problem, but if you bend the terminals too much when you install the burner in the oven, you run the risk of shorting them together, or breaking one. And that would be a big problem.

Because of the age of the oven it took a little time to loosen the screws that held the element in. Once the screws were removed it was a matter of pulling the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, then it was a matter of repeating the steps in reverse. Very quick and easy