JMP263D1 General Electric Range - Instructions

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

Turned power off to oven. Unscrewed back plate exposing wires connected to heating element. It was difficult to unscrew the connections between them as it was hard to reach in because the oven door was in the way, but i finally succeeded. Unscrewed the bracket holding the burned out element and then attached the wires to the new element. Attached the bracket and I turned on the power. I then tested the oven and it worked.

every thing went just fine. A simple job at best.

What went better was the prompt service.

Thanks

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

Removed the two screws that held the element in place. Pulled the unit out a few inches to get at the bolted wires. The hard part is reaching in the oven using bifocal lenses and trying to block out the oven light. Getting past that obstacle, the rest went very well.

shut off circuitbreaker.removed two screws.kind of hard since screws were 25 years old and were tight.then i removed the oven door and pulled out the elementout and removed two more screws that held the wires to the element,then removed the element and replaced the new one and screwed it to the wires and thenthe next two screws that held the element in place. turn on the circuitbreaker and it was a miracle it got hot!

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires and replaced the two wires that hold the element in place. I received the part within about 36 hours after placing order.

Removed the coverplate screws, slid the element outward, and removed the wire connecting screws. Positioned the new element to reconnect the wires, and discovered this isn't easy to see with trifocals. Succeeded after several failed attempts. Slid the new element into position, and reattached the cover plate.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires..Took out the old element and reversed tjhe procedure to install the new one

After an exhaustive search of local oven dealers and big box stores, I could not find a broiler element for my aged GE stove. I did find it online at Parts Select for about 1/3 the cost from GE online parts.

Replacement was easy-- just as described in posts for this part. The 'hardest' job was getting the screws started that hold the wires to the element-- small screws and small holes-- but just required some patience. A simple, inexpensive repair that avoided my having to replace the entire stove. Thanks!

husband said he would call repairman. I found you and ordered part. By the time my husband got around to calling the repairman, I was finished.
Only trouble was getting my hands to work in the small space. The cover plate was not as big as the former unit so I had to muscle it on. BUT, it was a very easy process and we saved tons of money on a repairman and a new oven/micro. THANKS.

Took out the old and put in the new! Easy and inexpensive repair (especially because my husband did it!)

The removal- replacement problem basically involves the shortness of the connector wires to the terminals. Because the burner is close to the top there is little room to use a screwdriver. The old unit used metal screws. The new came with open threaded holes in the terminals with two threaded screws. Used a small 1/4" ratchet which worked OK, but had to carefully bend the ends of the terminals to allow me to lower the element to an angle that would all room for ratchet action. (All design engineers should first have to work in maintenance before going to drawing board!)

S. Cooke, Houston Texas

On Thanksgiving Day, we were making a pecan pie. The lower oven started to smoke and flame. We quickly turned off the oven, removed the pie, and noticed that half of the lower burner element had turned into cinders. I copied down the part number and serial number of the oven, went to Google, and found the replacement part that I needed. Once the oven had cooled down, I turned off the circuit braker for the oven and tried to remove the burned out heating element. The good news was that I could remove it with my SAE socket set. I then ordered the part on line, knowing with confidence that I could do the replacement myself.
The part arrived one day after I got the email that the part had shipped. That is great service!
I waited till the next day to do the repair since I needed to have the right tools lined up and I needed to wear clothes that might get dirty when working deep inside the oven. A flashlight and a socket set with a 1/4 inch drive were the main tools I needed to do the electrical connections and the oven connection. I also used a blunt putty knife to clean out some of the goo in the oven.
After the repair, I turned the circuit breaker back on and placed a separate oven thermometer into the oven for the first test. The oven worked just fine at 250, 350, and 450 degree settings. Wife is now happy!

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.