J33201 General Electric Range - Instructions

Some times it's not the element at all, as in this case. After rmoving the element I found the wires broke. Fortunatly I had some high temp wire left over from a earlier oven repair. I used butt splices and heat shrink tubing to repair the wires. Then I crimped on a couple of eyelets and fastened things dow.n I received a big kiss form the wife for getting the broiler fixed so fast. Maybe a little extra work, but the rewards were worth it.

First turn off breakers. Undo all screws and remove burner. Easy to see how to replace old part with new. Self explanatory if you follow what you have taken apart.

The old burner was disconnected by unscrewing the wire connectors. The new burner was installed by reconnecting the same wire connectors although the white and red connectors had to be swapped to make the inner element go on when #2 or med switch is chosen.

The repair was very eash. The replacement element fit perfectly and only involved removing two screws, pulling the old element out far enought from the bak of the oven to disconnect the wires held by two screws . Disconnecting the two wires and installing the new element. This is a 25 year old appliance and is back to working like new. One note, be sure to shut the power off to the range because one of the wires connected to the element remains HOT! even if the oven is not on.

The repair went well and once again my stove that was installed back in 1968 is working perfectly. We will be buying another 6" burner and 2-8" so we have them when they begin to burn out. We looked everywhere for a replacement and was told they do not make them anymore, but we found it here. Thank you!

First I turned the power to the stove off at the breaker box. Next I removed the two screws holding the old element in place against the back wall of the oven. I gently pulled the element forward. I wound a couple lengths of spare colored wire around the two electrical wires before disconnecting the retainer screws at their connection points. This insured that the electric wires would not fall back inside and behind the firewall. I then disconnected the screws holding the electrical wires to the broiler element. I removed the element from the oven and discarded it. I then connected the screws through wires and the connecting points of the new element. I removed the spare wires hold the electrical wires. I positioned the broiler element in place and screwed in the retainer screws securing it in place. I turned the breaker switch to the "on" position and tested the new broiler element. It tested fine. Job done in 15 to 20 minutes. An able bodied person could do it in less than 10 I'm sure.

finally used painters tape to hold gasket in place while I tighten down the screws.

I tried first to replace them, with a set I bought at a local hardware store. But they were too small. So I went on the internet, and found Part Select, and thanks to a very helpful guy, who made the extra effort to find the exact drip bowls, I now have a nice, shiny stove-top again. Installing them took two minutes... tilt the burners up, and slide them in. No problem.

From inside the oven after turning off the breaker I removed all of the mounting screws with a nutdriver, I removed the wire screws after taping all of the wires together with a small piece of tape to prevent them from falling back into the opening. I installed the wires with the original screws as the provided screws would not fit the holes, tightened them, removed the tape and placed the element back into the opening. I then tightened the hanging brackets, after getting them to align and then tightened the rear mounting bracket. It did help to adjust the baking rack down and leave the baking rack in place to have a place to rest my arms. The install then became a piece of cake!

Shut power to unit. Tilted burner element back, then removed pan screw,with nut driver which holds rear hinge in place. Next step was to remove clips that hold porcelain cover that covers the wires.Used nut driver to remove the three the wires. Installed new unit in the reversed order. Just make sure wires replaced in proper order. really easy !

I thought it would be a simple matter of removing the inside glass (4 screws) and replacing the gasket, but it turns out that on this model I had to start on the outside, remove the drawer, then remove the front door cover, then undo a screw which held the inside two-tier glass in place, THEN I could remove the four screws and the interior panel which holds the gasket in place. THIS IS A TWO PERSON JOB unless you choose to use masking tape to hold the exterior door cover in place while removing/replacing the many screws which hold it on. WHILE REPLACING THE INTERIOR COVER WHICH HOLDS THE GASKET IN PLACE, YOU MUST PERIODICALLY STRETCH IT HERE AND THERE TO GET THE "SNAKE" TO EXTEND THE ENTIRE WAY AND TO SEAL TIGHTLY.

Unscrew 4 easy nuts and 1 most difficult nut, gently pull both long and short wires, at this point assure the wife that you did turn off the power.You may wish to attach a cord to short wire as it wants to vanish into the rear bowels of the oven On instruction of the wife clean the oven. Reverse dismantling procedure. Switch oven on. Bask in wives praise.

Even though my sons offered to do the repair, I opted to hire an appliance technician to do it and it took him at least 45 mins. with his experience and tools. apparently the inside wall wires were shorter and more difficult to access and grip and I'm glad I did. It should last another 20 years and I'll be dead!

1.Shut off power to stove. 2. Lift up non-working burner. 3. Unscrew retaining screw that allows burner to tilt. 4. Lift burner out. 5. remove clips from ceramic holder. 6. Unscrew 3 screws holding element, write down which color is attached to which element, or label wires. 7. unpack new element, directions say to cut off and tip the leads with solder, but I re-used the old circle connectors. 8. Screw the wires back on the new element (using nutdriver) 9. place element in new ceramic holder provided, and clamp shut. 10. place element in stove top opening and screw in retaining screw (honestly I could not get this to work correctly, so I just left the element sitting in the hole). 11. Turn power back on. This could take as few as 5-10 minutes, but I allowed 1/2 hour for turning power on and off or moving the stove to unplug it.

Removed old element, checked continuity and element was bad, Fit new element and everything was good. No problem except my arms were not long enough!! Repairs took about 15 minutes.