PLES389DCC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

The repair was simple; first I removed the 2 screws from the old element and disconnected the wires and then I inserted the new element reconnected the wires and replaced the screws . The repair was easy and took less that 15 min. The oven works as good as new and I saved alot of money by doing it myself.

Replaced clock control by removing surface burner control knobs and plastic nuts, and then the cover over the oven control. Two screw hold the clock in place, after removal and disconnecting the plug-in you can reinstall the new clock control. The Heat Sensor inside the oven will also need to be replaced. It is located inside the oven and attached with two screws; the back of the oven will need to be removed to unplug. Reverse removal procedure and turn the power back on to the stove.

I pulled my unit out of the wall and noticed that the insulation around the top broiler element was a bit brown. Closer inspection revealed that the element had shorted somehow to the oven itself and caused the element to become non-functional. I tried measuring the resistance first, and it was within typical values for the other elements, but I decided to replace the element anyway.

I ordered from PD and the part arrived just a few days letter by regular shipping. I undid the screws holding in the element, undid the wire connectors and replaced the broken element with the new one. The element worked like a charm and I was back in business for cooking.

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.

PartsSelect serivce was AMAZING - I ordered online on Sunday afternoon, and the part arrived Tuesday with standard shipping! First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires from the old element, then replaced with new. WARNING - you MUST kill the breaker, because the element is "hot" even when it's off.

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

Flip up top, remove wires and two screws. Replace in opposite way. Turn off power to stove first.

Found that the right hinge spring was sprung loose from its stock position. So I replaced both hinges. Remove the oven door, remove the side trim plate from both sides of the oven door. remove inside of the door to reveal the hinges. replaced both hinges, and replace all covers and put door back on.. I replaced both hinges because if one was wore out the other would not be far behind it.

Helps to have another person, but you can do it alone. Starting with the 6 screws under control panel, disassemble the panel entirely. Remove control knobs and twist off the 4 black retaining washers, remove panel. Pull wire harness connections apart. Unscrew 6 screws holding metal plate with the control knob stems and remove. Unhook wire harnesses. Take out all screws holding plastic control panel shell and lift it off. Take out all screws behind it and on 2 brackets underneath on either side.
Now go around sides and back of oven taking out screws near the bottom of the cooktop. Top with pan assembly lifts off. Turn assembly upside down and remove screws holding the metal pan. Remove spring clips holding down all heating elements (you can bend the metal tabs holding the clips to help) and squeeze and remove indicator lights. Transfer all to new top and reverse.
Hints: Check placement of elements carefully on the new top. Use a plastic knife to help bend the new tabs up for the retaining clips. When replacing the metal pan, the front edge of the pan goes outside the bracket of the cooktop, the other 3 sides go inside. When replacing the plastic control panel shell put the top edge and gasket down first then swing the bottom down. Check that it is seated flush over the metal flange along the bottom. Double check all wire connections! They come off easily. Enjoy your new cooktop while it lasts.

I removed the two screws and then used pliers to pry apart the wiring. I unplugged the connectors and removed the element. The new unit arrived in three days and I plugged it in, replaced the screws and turned the oven on and made a pie! Very Satisfying and easier then I ever thought it would be. We figured we saved $200.00. The service place where we live charges $125.00 to come out and assess and then parts and service on top of that.

FIRST, SHUT OFF the entire CIRCUIT for the range/oven at your breaker panel/fuse box, and verify it is OFF by testing the range/oven. Then...
1) remove range knobs, 2) use flathead screwdriver to unscrew plastic rings beneath knobs, 3) lift up face plate and disconnect oven light switch wires, 4) remove screws for metal plate that knob switches mount to, 5) tilt plate forward and replace each wire onto the new switch, one at a time, being certain to match the markings, 6) remove old switch, by taking out two screws, and put new switch in its place, 7) reassemble everything and your done.

Took out the bad element and replaced it with the new element in less than 5 minutes. Simple Stuff with the right part. Thanks Parts Select!

Easier than painting my toenails!! The gasket came out easily just by pulling with my hands. Replacing it with the new one was even simpler. The clips are already attached to the gasket and easily slip into the holes on the door. I used the end of a tupperware orange peeler to push the unfinished ends of the gasket into a slot at the bottom and that was it! A new, perfect seal and it looks and works great!

ordered switch for on, off. Turned power off at breaker.opened oven door, underneath top console there are four philip screws.. remove top and take slotted screwdriver and unscrew four plastic nuts. I used pocket knife..remove plastic cover , and then remove four more philip screws to remove metal plate that holds all four control switchs. remove two screws that held switch in place
and unplug wires and plug new switch in... Saftey first gentlemen, there is no ifs and buts or maybes when it comes to your life.. make sure you turn your power off.. works like a charm , can adjust heat from 1 to hi..thanks for partselect great price and speedy shipping...James K. Luper

This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.