ARG7600LL-P1143345NLL Amana Range - Instructions

Wow, ordered the part here and it arrived in 18 hours!! Job was fairly straight forward but the screw holding it in place was corroded and stuck. Several heating and cooling cycles with a torch and some spray lube and lots of patience and I finally rocked the screw lose.

Remove the cover over the burner, two screws at the rear, this exposes the burner tube cover, one nut at the center. Three screws will remove the holder for the igniter. I had to remove a sheet metal cover underneath the oven( pull the drawer out) to gain access to the plug for the igniter. A good tip on this is the same valve controls the broiler and the oven, if one works and the other doesn't, it's the igniter. If neither works the gas vale may be the problem.

I removed the cartridge from the range and used a screw driver to remove the screws holding the burners assembly in the housing. (Some prefer to remove the burner from the top by removing the two screws, but I've had trouble realigning the parts that way.) I removed the ignition wire and the screw holding the bad electrode in the burner. I then installed the new electrode, attached the ignition wire, put the burners assembly back into the housing, and put the housing back into the range.

Unscrewed the burners,lifted the top up,unplugged the burners.Took out the bad module,making sure of where the wires went and put them in the same spots on the new module,reconnected the burners lowered the top screwed the burners back in and the burners lit.

First I removed the knobs on the range, then the front cover and then removed the two screws that hold each burner in place. I removed the top and removed the Module and started replacing the burners and front ocver and knobs. The Module worked GREAT. Thanks for your fast service in getting me the parts.

Removed the top, 4 screws and pulled the contact wires off. Replaced the module and connected the contacts. Put back the screws and the top. When the stove was new it did not operate properly and we had a technician out, but naturally it worked for him. For the past 14 years intermittent operation has been agravating me. With the new module the burners have never worked so well.

Un plug elect. Cord. Remove door by pulling upward removed back stove panel, un did 2 wire nuts leading to igniter. Un screw igniter inside oven at top next to burner pad. Interchanged old ignitor with new plug stove back in. Thats it.

I went ahead with the repair after reading how easy it was. I located the wires which were spliced, held together with wire nuts and wrapped in black insulation tape which did not feel right. Not realizing that these were ceramic heat resistant wire nuts and not wanting to cut the connector off the new ignitor I tried in vain to find a way to disconnect the original from it's source. In vain I searched for a way to reach where it plugged in. Looking for diagrams on line I came across one mention of: when you can't reach where to unplug the connector splice the wires using the heat resistant wire nuts. Encouraged I did that without the black insulation tape and then tried to slide the ignitor into the protective housing. The filament broke! I was devastated. Out $50.00 plus ego deflated I called PartSelect and bless their soul they sent me a new one under warranty. I didn't even have to ask for it. Their turn around time was the same as before and within two days not counting the weekend the oven lit like a Christmas candle. Thanks to all before me who shared their experience. Curious though why no one mentioned the splicing method.

PriceSelect was the best. Special thanks to them.

Replaced the existing ignitor by removing the bottom drip pan/gas line/ignitor (apprimately 18 screws), unscrewing the wire nuts, removing the old ignitor, connecting the wires to the new ignitor, and reinstalling the drip pan/gas line/ignitor (18 screws).

Symptoms were sign of bad ignitor based on Goggle searches. Removed screws holding burner and ignitor to range. Disconnected ignitor at green connector below oven with lower drawer removed. Then removed burner and old ignitor. Reinstalled burner and then new ignitor being sure burner was still seated on gas outlet. (Note-burner removal may not be necessary) Replaced two screws attaching ignitor to oven wall and two screws attaching burner to floor of oven. Oven works perfectly now.

My husband took the oven door off then the bottom piece below the shelf took the old ignigter out put the new on in and now I have an oven again.

removed two screws from each burner, removed ignitor wires from burners, pulled range top removed old module and inserted new reattaching wires for four burners, switch and power to new module. reset top, attached wires to burners and reinserted screws

Easily replaced the stovetop burner bowls by removing the old ones and replacing with the new ones.

Parts Select provided easy online ordering and was nearly one-half the price of other online suppliers.The quality was excellent!

Although this was not a repair I wanted to let you know your service was outstanding and the price quite reasonable. I am very happy to finally have a much needed second rack in my oven that was not there when I purchased my home. Thank You

Unscrewed all the phillips screws holding the door together. Re-assembly indicates that you want to note exactly how the sides overlap the front and back steel panels, possibly take a cellphone picture before starting. The front and back panel will bend down the bottom attachment metal tabs, misaligning the sides, etc if you replace the glass with the door still on the range. Prob. best to have a second standing by or remove entire door first.