ARG7600LL-P1143345NLL Amana Range - Instructions

opened up the oven to locate the position of igniter

disconnected igniter and checked the continuity of the igniter to find that I had an open circuit

once I found out the igniter was no good I google for appliance parts and found parts select had the best prices that I could find. I called a couple local parts stores and there prices were definately inflated. I chose to go with parts.select.com
I receive the part in two days! I installed the new part within 15 minutes and turn on the oven to have it light almost instantly. I won much praise from my wife. Parts.select.com recieves my praise for ease and quickness of part delivery.

left side hinge was broken. I removed 2 screws to release the old hinge and replaced it with the new hinge.
Part select.com made it easy to pick out the part from the diagram supplied on the web site. After it was ordered it arrived 2 days later.

I took out ruined racks. Cleaned the oven, getting rid of all the melted plastic. Once oven was sparkling clean, I slid in the new racks I bought from here. (The easiest part).

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I'm very thankful to have found this site. My oven has been "out of order" for over 3 years. It's so nice to be able to use it again! =)

Repair can be done through the oven after removing the dip pan on top of the oven burner. The drip pan slids out - no tools needed. Remove 1 screw that holds the element close to the burner and 2 screws that hold the element cover to the stove. Remove bottom drawer and remove wire nuts from element wires. Reverse the process to install new element. Care must be taken to avoid damage to the element as it can be easily broken. I cut and stripped the wires coming from the stove valve as they were not in good shape after removing the wire nut.

A Home Depot employee advised me on how to enter all my oven information found on the front of my oven on parts.com. I submitted parts information as stated, also very easy. My parts arrived 3 days later. I used a screwdriver & pliers, it took less than 15 minutes. Very simple and the entire process from order to installation went like clockwork. I would definitely order in the future. Thank you.

Removed the two screws that hold the element in place. Disconnected the wire to the electrode. The screw holding the electrode to the burner plate would not unscrew so I had to drill out the screw in order to replace it with the new ignition electrode. A little more time involved but if the screw would have come out it would have been a 10 minute job.When I ordered the part from you it came very quickly and I will certainly use you again when I have any other issues.

I first thought the burner was bad but after some
testing realized that the Spark Ignition Module was
faulty. You have to remove the screws from the four
burners to remove them and the stove top. Then it
is a fairly easy job to replace the module. Just be
careful to reconnect the wires in the correct places
that you removed them from the old module.

Subject range is in a rental house and receives much use and abuse. The repair was necessary due to the door having 2, 1-2 inch cracks one on each side so the door bent outward. Obviously in the past when the oven door was completely in the open position much weight was placed on the door cracking the sides and bending the door. Consequently, when the oven was in use and the door was closed being that the door was bent outward heat escaped from the top of the door heating up the control panel. The control panel would get so hot that it could not be touched without burning the fingers. Replacing this range would cost approximately $2200, so we had to try to repair it. I went to the ParSelect website and ordered the part I needed.
Being that the oven door is heavy and large it took two people to disassemble and reassemble the door. We had quite
a wrestling match with the door (consider too, that we never do this type of job) but after about 3 hours our range was almost like new.
Disappointing that a replacement mylar cover for the control panel is no longer available at PartSelect. We would appreciate getting our hands on one as the existing mylar cover is cracked.
The oven has been successfully used since the repair and we have a good fit and the control panel is now only warm instead of blistering hot. FANTASTIC!
THANK YOU


Time will tell.

Sincerely

Craig and Judy Crouch

i read other stories and found after checking rotating heat switch with ohm meter found the igniter was the problem, pulled up on door and it came off, found bottom of oven pulled up and out, removed wing nut from deflector and two bolts and one wiring connector, just reversed removal to install new igniter and all complete, took about 20 minutes,

Instructions with parts are minimal. Looked at exploded drawing and read other installation descriptions on site. From the read I knew it was easier than it looked. Opened oven door. Unscrewed screws about 1/3 of the way up on both sides on inside face of door; these are the only thing attaching the hinges to the door. (Save all the screws you remove - they make work better than the ones with the parts.) The door can now be pulled off the range. I pulled the broken part out of the right side with pliers. Remove the screws below and about 8" up from the hinge on each side. When this is done you can pull the hinge out from the slot from the front. Open the new hinges up and they will slip through these same openings and position them as the ones you removed were positioned. Replace the screws. On the parts I received the lower screw holes on the hinge were not tapped. The original screws worked a bit like self-tapping ones. If you lose any parts or need to get to the hinge from the back you can take out the drawer.

I took out the oven racks. There are 2 cross head screws and 1 screw with a hex head holding the igniter. Pulling out the igniter carefully and the wire nuts also came out. Replaced the wires using the existing wirenuts and slid the igniter into place. Replaced the 3 screws and DONE. Wish the igniters were a little cheaper as this is the third one to go weak. The new one draws about 3.2 amps while the old one only drew 2.85Amps, not enough to open the gas valve. Oven works Fine now. Thanks parts select for the rapid delivery.

First, I unplugged power to the stove. Next, I removed the grills, ceramic burner discs, gas knobs, and glass plate (under the knobs). Next, I removed the 2 screws exposed by the control knobs. Next, I removed the 2 screws holding each burner assembly to the cook top. I then unplugged the wires attached to each burner assembly and set the assemblies aside. Now I was able to remove the top. Once removed, it was very easy to locate and remove the bracket holding the old sparking module. Then it was just a matter of removing the wires from the old module and attaching them to the new module... attaching the new bracket to the stove and then re-assemble the cook top. Honestly, this was a very simple repair... and probably took me longer to describe the steps than actually execute.

i had to remove quite a lot of screws in the bottom "pan" of the over to get to the igniter wiring. once it was apart, it was easy to see how to disconnect and reconnect the new igniter. the trickiest part is to put the igniter into the metal sheeted housing before you try to thread the wiring through to the plug at the back of the stove. overall, this is an easy rip out and replace process.

Removed oven door. Removed three screws on ignitor holding bracket. Pulled out the range from the wall and reached underneath to access the wire nuts on the wires. Removed old ignitor and replaced with new one. Reconnected wires and then and replaced bracket and that's it. Works great now.

I called the local appliance parts store and they said it would cost $60-80 and take a week to order. I paid $16 and received my rack in 2 days!