KP2671 KitchenAid Mixer - Instructions

Took top apart and installed new housing and two gears. Reassembled

Remove screw at back of mixer,remove metal sleve and remove three more screws (front and sides. remove screws and plastic cap of gear box then remove holding ring in post and remove damaged ring installation is opposed of removal.

I did not do the repair myself, however, I contacted a suggested service company which in turn was a company I had used before when I had problems with my JenAir microwave. Excellent service, prompt and very professional. Thank you JenAir for your assistance in providing promptly the parts needed to complete this job.

Took screw off band. This revealed 4 screws to upper housing. Removed 4 screws and lifted upper housing off . To my surprise I found no screws holding gear housing cover in place. You could tell they were there at one time. Should be 4. I removed cover disasembled what was left of gears. Cleaned old grease ordered parts. Thought since there was only 1 screw on diagram it would ship 4. No big deal. After recieving parts further inspection revealed no screws holding motor in place. This blows me away. Anyway off to local hardware store for more screws. Got home slapped it togethere in 10 minutes. Ordered this off TV about 6 years ago. They must have had it in for repair and forgot to put it back together. All that aside it runs better than ever. Thanks much Michael

disassembled unit gear head and replaced broken part, then reassembled

watched the youtube video on how to repair a Kitchenaid Pro 600.

Removed shroud and gear case top. No snap-ring pliers, so I used two small vice grips, one on each lobe, and spread and "worried" the ring up the shaft. Changed out all ghe grease in case of metal chips. Put it back tegether. Works fine.

This is a 6 Qt. made by Kitchen Aid Stand Up mixer 575. watts with 6 qt. bowl. A powerful machine. But not geared to crush Almonds. After about 2 quarts of Almond crushing to make Almond butter I heard the machine thumbing inside and turned it off immediately. Mind you, I am a 60 year old man with Maintenance Mechanic, and Machinist skills. If you listen to my instructions which aren't that hard you can do this. REMOVE THE POWER CHORD BEFORE CONTINUING. First you have to find the screws that hold the top half of the machine together. They are under the silver Kitchen Aid Stainless Steel 5/8th Band that runs around the middle of the machine. On the back of the machine is a small machine screw that when taken out removes the band. Remove the band carefully as not to bend it because it has to go back on looking pretty. Comes off easy. You will then see 4 longer 3/4 inch screws around the middle of the machine head. When you remove these screws the top half of the machine head will lift up. The top half of the machine head lifts off very easy. Throw all your screws into the top so you don't mis place them. You will see a Motor some gears on the side and a shaft that comes from the motor going into a Cast Aluminum Casing with another 4 screws 3/4 exactly the same size as the ones you took from around the top mixer casing. This is easy cause you don't have allot of different size screws only the one small one that screws on the back of the band. After these four screws are removed, again lift up the top half of the casing but this time it will be full with gear grease. Put the casing aside and using paper towels wife a little of the gear grease off the top gear. In order to turn the gear you must use the side drive gear or look around the gear you will notice in some of the gear slots will be shinny and worn. This is the Bevel Gear. There is a C locking shaft cliff that keeps the gear locked in. You must have a multiple C clip remover pliers that has different size C clips for the holes in the clip must be spread apart in order to remove the clip all the way up the shaft. NOTE:; DO NOT USE A PLYERS TO TRY AND PRY THIS CLIP OFF IT IS STRANG AND YOU MAY MAR THE STAINLESS STEEL GEAR SHAFT. You must use the gear C clip remover, I found one moderately prized for 25 dollars at the Home Depot or any large chain hard ware stores will have it. After the C clip is removed, slide the gear evenly up. If it's stuck that's only because of grease unless you mar the shaft by not listening to me. I also replace the Top Hum Bevel gear which is in the top half of the hub. Parts select has a Diagram that shows you the parts and where they are. When putting on the Bevel Gear over the shaft be sure to lower it evenly and guide it onto the worm gear. There is a small pin that sticks out in the middle of the gear make sure this lines up when setting the gear into the worm gear. The Top Bevel Gear, falls right out and you can use your figures to pull this one out and put the new one in. If you replace the Bevel gear my experience as a mechanics is to always replaces the adjacent gear as well, both will be worn. attach the C cliff the same what as taking it off except opposite. Pull the tow clip holes apart and slide it down to the shaft groove for the clip. Put everything back the way you took it off. One NOTE;.. DO NOT DO TOUGHT THE SIDE DRIVE GEAR IT IS SET IN WITH BRASE LOCKING SHIMS AND HAVE TO BE SET A CERTAIN WAY TO CLOSE. When closing make sure the Top Hub is in line with these brace shims. After screwing the hub back down do not over tighten, just snug it tight. Be sure to buy axle gear grade and replace any grease removed, this chamber must be loaded with grease. There is never too much only too little as you will wear the gears down without the proper amount. DO NOT TOUCH ANY THING THAT DOES NEED TO BE TOUCHED LIKE THE MOTOR OR DRIVE SHAFTS OR SIDE MAIN GEAR…

Removed the cover. Removed the gear assembly cover.. Extracted the C clip with a tool. Removed the bevel gear. Pushed out the dowel pin. Used rubber mallet to push the shaft off the worm gear. Replaced the washer and the worm gear. Used a 1/2" diameter PVC, 3" long over the shaft and on the gear to push back the shaft through the gear with rubber mallet. Pushed back the dowel pin. Reinstalled the C clip. Replaced broken hub bevel gear. Added more grease. Placed the gear cover with 4 screws just tight enough to hold the cover but still allows movement. Turned the mixer to the lowest speed. Allow the cover to self adjust so that the gears have the smoothest sound. Tightened the screws while while maintaining the smooth sound. Turned off the power. Replaced the cover.

Used the meat grinder attachment, with the retaining ring too tight for the motor to turn the augur, so a gear stripped and the mixer would not run. I opened the mixer top, removed the transmission cover, removed enough grease to diagnose the problem (6 teeth stripped off the steel worm gear). I ordered a replacement steel worm gear and, while I was at it, a new retaining ring, bevel gear, retaining pin and the large planetary gear, as I could not tell the condition of these until I disassembled the whole gear train. I then removed the gear train components (needed a snap ring pliers to remove the retaining ring -- I don't recommend trying to remove it with an y other tool), washed them in acetone, cleaned out the transmission case and went over it with a magnet to get stray gear tooth remnants, replaced the worm and bevel gears and reassembled, using the original planetary gear, retaining pin and retaining ring. Filled the bottom of the transmission with planetary grease first, then, once the gear train had been replaced, slathered a big pile of grease over it, replaced the transmission cover. The machine then ran perfectly, so I replaced the mixer's top cover and decorative band and was back in business mixing with it about 30 minutes after cleaning the last of the grease off my hands. I should mention, I used a LOT of paper towels for this job. This was a fun job and I was sorry that it was so easy to do, as I enjoy working with gears and grease.

I had previously ordered several other gears after I found one of the worm gears stripped. After putting it all back together, the one major gear in the unit that I had not replaced because it looked fine, the bevel gear, also stripped. Learning experience: this is a unit worth several hundred dollars, so don't skimp on a $4 part. Once you work on this thing, you might as well spend a few bucks more and replace ALL the gears - even if they look like they are okay. Furthermore, if you only take 15 minutes to do this repair, as some on this site suggest, you are probably not cleaning the old grease carefully enough. Make sure you properly clean out the old grease to remove any metal from stripped gears, and use a good quality grease to re-pack the gear case.

The repair is actually quite simple. The Snap Ring Pliers are essential. Make sure you clean out all the old grease in the machine and replace with new grease. The metal dust will act like sandpaper and destroy your new gear. There are several videos on YouTube which go through the process of repair and part replacement, I found these quite helpful. Good luck! DIY!!!!

Worm gear strips usually after the lower gear housing breaks. Tore down cleaned grease and shrapnel out, replace stripped worm gear and lower housing. It's convenient that the lower housing plate comes assembled with new bushing and gear. This is now the third one of these expensive mixers I have repaired, word got out that I fix them, and this is a very common problem. Repairs have been for friends and Church, so I don't charge any labor, it's kind of fun, messy, but fun. Note to Kitchen Aid: Please strengthen lower gear case.

Removed top cover, remove snap-ring on shaft, slide top gear and worm gear off. Clean all the grease out and clean parts. Installed new worm gear and parts. Repacked with new grease, careful not to much, leaving room for expansion.

Watched the video. Ordered the parts. Watched the video again. Replaced the worm follower gear and bearings on the worm gear. Added grease. Installed new gear housing. Put it all back together and tested. Works like new. Now I get cakes and goodies again and have a happy wife who thinks I'm super handyman. Thanks