JEM25DM2BB General Electric Microwave - Instructions

New part came -- perfect fit, set it in the microwave, no problem.

Installed new one. I do not know if these rings can be repaired

Removed the above stove microhood. Removed the side panels & the top panel. Diode located on right hand side of microwave. Removed with screwdriver & replaced new diode. It's best to get the microwave schematic online to pinpoint location of the part.

1. Using wire cutters, cut out sheet metal cover over motor on oven bottom. The stamped bottom is retained by the four corners which were not cut in the stamping. 2. Remove and replace motor. 3. Replace motor cover with supplied screw. (failure symptoms: turn table vibrated before it stopped completely.)

removed access panal, found soft switch as discribed on your web site. removed and replaced.

thank you very much.

I googled "Microwave stopped working", and after reviewing numerous websites with suggestions, I found the response noted below at "Help Owl" which was the most straighfoward and clear explanation to trouble shoot the problem. I first tested the Thermal Cut Out (TCO) per the instructions below and that was the problem. I didn't have to test the electrical fuse. Turns out that you cannot typically use the microwave continuously for more the 12 or 13 minutes or it may overheat and the TCO will shut it down. Extremely easy to test for and fix, and the part is only $15! See Trouble Shooting steps as follows: Make sure that the unit is vented properly and that if you are using it for prolonged periods while cooking, that you turn-on the vent fan.
If there is no display / power within the unit...first check your power source where you plug the unit into the wall.

If that is good, Remove the Cabinette/Cover "Note: it has 3-Torx Anti-Tamper Screws".

Then as you face the microwave from the rear, at the left rear corner is a small circuit board with a fuse. "Check the Fuse"

If the fuse is good, Check the following:

1 - The most common component failure is the "Cabinette TCO" (Thermal Cut-Off Thermostat).

As you face the microwave from the rear...It is located under the cover, on top, on the left front corner area.

It is a Circular, Black & Silver Disc Shaped component about the size of a dime in diameter and is about 1/2" in height.

It has Two (2) Wires attached to it's spade connectors and it acts as a safety fuse.

"IF YOU PUT AN INSULATED JUMPER WIRE ACROSS THE 2 TERMINALS THE POWER SHOULD RETURN AND THE DISPLAY WILL LIGHT"

Anything other than these two items should be checked by an Authorized Service Technician as these microwaves have components thay carry "HIGH VOLTAGE SHOCK HAZZARDS"

Microwave would not turn on. Lights and fan worked fine. Before the microwave stopped completely, it would turn the microware fan on even when door was open. I read the reviews and they were exactly the same issue that others were facing. Once I opened the front panel and got to the switches it was easy to figure out which switch was bad as it was the one that was soft (When clicking it). It was hard to take it out though (it seemed stuck). So, I used a plier to yank it out. I put in the new switch and everything worked just great! I would like to thank other comments that were left on the site to make my task much easier. Thank you (to the commenters on PartsSelect), you not only saved me money, but also ensured that I learn about the microwave more and give me the confidence that I could fix it.

First, unplug microwave. Unscrew two screws at top of microwave, slide grill cover left and remove. This allows access to single screw holding control panel. Remove this screw and lift up control panel to remove. Secondary door switch is black switch at lowest position. The switch is held in place by a lever in back and very hard to get to. Remove the wires plugged into the switch, then remove two screws holding the plastic switch mount that holds all three switches. These screws use a "star" type screwdriver. Once the plastic mount is free, lift it up, right, and tip it slightly to find the lever that will release the black secondary door switch (the lowest switch)...release the broken switch, snap the new switch in its place. Replace the plastic mount by lifting and replacing back into position and replace the two "star" screws. Now, replace the wires onto the new switch, and test operation. Replace control panel, and top grill. It goes faster than it writes...getting the old switch out through that difficult to reach lever was the hardest part...still less than thirty minutes.

Turn off main power bracker. Removed fan vent, removed control panel, disconnect leads to the three monitor switches. Replaced the secondary switch (top). Reversed procedures.

it was a simple screw in on both ends. no soldering