JVM1490SD003 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

This is a simple task. Removed the choke cover using a putty knife or small flat screw driver. Putty knife works best. Slide putty knife under the plastic choke cover to lift up over clips all around the door. There are 3 on top and Bottom and 2 on each side. Be very careful or you will break the catch clips that hold the choke cover in place. Lift the door latch up all the way and push towards the outside of the door, then pull the top or bottom out then the rest of it. Unhook the spring end from the door. Attach the new spring to the hook on the door and then to the door latch. Extend it up all the way so the 2 hook parts of the door latch can go back into their slots. Unlike some others said, the microwave door does not need to be removed. If you have someone to hold the door still, that's good enough. I did it by myself with no problem.

The repair was easy, just two screws but I was very impressed with the price and swift delivery of the part from PartSelect.com. The vent grille was almost $40 less than it cost on the GE website and I had the part in 3 days. Thanks!

I removed the door, by taking off the grill at the top. Then, take the puddy knife and screw driver and pry the facing off of the door. Please remember to be very careful because this is a sensitive piece. This is the most difficult part. It is a piece of cake after this. This should take about 15 minutes from beginning to end.

Unscrewed the screw, removed old cover, place new cover in place and re-inserted the scrw.

We opened the microwave door and essentially with a straight screwdriver worked to "pop" the plastic frame off of the door. We tried to be less aggressive in our efforts and this paid off since we didn't break anything! The area we needed to work on was now exposed to put the new latch in. It took 2 hands rather than 3 to get the new latch attached and then wah-lah, It was done! Microwave works perfectly now. Great alternative to buying a new microwave!

Remove upper grill, then control panel, then 2 screws hold door switch mounting bracket, that will let you roll the switches out to work on them. Remove each switch by carefully pushing back retainer clips. Diode a long pair of needlenose pliers is helpful. The control board in front of capacitor comes out with a flat screwdriver and pry up. Removing grnd wires helps

I replaced the TCO (fuze) through the vent opening after removing the vent cover and several small panels with a screw driver for visible access.. Some of the screws require a small offset screwdriver because of the limited access. I did not have to drop the unit from the wall over the range and was able to access through the vent opening to replace to failed TCO with a new one. The TCO is wired in-line with the power and other fuses to the unit and when it fails the enitire unit is cold with no power to lights or function of any kind. The GE service rep. said that the unit needed a new smart board but that was not the problem and they are no longer made for the older unit. I discovered the repair by looking at YouTube for repairs for the GE Advantium 120 microwave/convection combo unit.

Placed the new tray into the oven.

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!

unplugged power
removed main black cover.
located part WB24X10047 and replaced

We used the scresdriver(flat) to remove the frame inside the door, the remove several screws retaining the inner part of the door thenremoved the broken piece. We replaced the latch with the spring With a little patience, everything went fine. I broke one of the small tab, no big deal.
thanks, you saved me a lot of money/.

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now

remove with phillips screwdriver. insert 3 corners in to slots and insert and tighten screw.