EC5150WV1 Whirlpool Ice Maker - Instructions

I pried the old one out with a screw driver and pushed the new one in. I expected instructions in the box it came in but there were none.

Popped the old one out with a kitchen knife and popped the new one back in. It tool less than 15 seconds!!

My owners manual said to unplug fridge from elec outlet, use a kitchen knife to gently pry off the switch plate
(manual had a pictoral example), unclip the two wire, replace with on new switch and replace the switch. Close
door and plug back in. Open door to check that the lite
works. Walla! It did. Thanks!

Sincerely, Ron Marshall, Billings, MT

Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

Removed front panel by inserting stiff putty knife at bottom and gently prying snaps loose. removed two screws holding electrical board. had assitant hold both out to one side without removing their connections or wires. Cut off old water line about three inches behind broken nozzle. Cut head off a small screw and used threads to connect cutoff old hose to new hose. Pulled both through door and out bottom until new hose appeared. Very easy.

Replaced with new part. Issue this the third time in about 3 years and I do not know why the part life is so short. Replacement is 5 minutes as the valve is just behind the from panel.

Turn water off. Remove front panel (2 screws) water valve on bottom right . Easy access .

Determined coil was open when fill valve did not allow water to enter the icemaker tank. Checked coil with Ohmmeter, found open, and ordered part. Part came in in quick order and allowed me to replace fill valve and have machine making ice within 4 business days. Nothing like clear ice maker for making really good ice.

I turned of the power, unplugged the electrical connection to the valve, disconnected the water inlet and outlet pipes, remover two small bolts that attached the valve to the frame of the ice maker and removed the old valve. The new valve was installed in the reverse order. It was a very easy install.

Replaced the output nozzle and hose that goes through the door and down under the frig.Wasnt sure if I could push new hose down through door so hooked the two hoses together so I could pull the new hose into place. To hook them together i took a short screw, cut off the head and screwed it into both hoses and put one wrap of tape around it. Pulled through the first time.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.