EC5150WV1 Whirlpool Ice Maker - Instructions

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

Replaced with new part. Issue this the third time in about 3 years and I do not know why the part life is so short. Replacement is 5 minutes as the valve is just behind the from panel.

Turn water off. Remove front panel (2 screws) water valve on bottom right . Easy access .

I turned of the power, unplugged the electrical connection to the valve, disconnected the water inlet and outlet pipes, remover two small bolts that attached the valve to the frame of the ice maker and removed the old valve. The new valve was installed in the reverse order. It was a very easy install.

Impossible to pass the water tubing through the door as kitchenaid spliced the water tube behind the dispenser and also within the door with tube connectors and not to mention that it was also bundled with the wiring harness. I freshen the connections behind the door and after the tubing exited the door. No leak so far. The only piece of the purchased tubing I used was the spout and attached 12 inch strip of the tubing.

Determined coil was open when fill valve did not allow water to enter the icemaker tank. Checked coil with Ohmmeter, found open, and ordered part. Part came in in quick order and allowed me to replace fill valve and have machine making ice within 4 business days. Nothing like clear ice maker for making really good ice.

I took the freezer door handle off, removed the door panel covers, removed the ice/water cover, then removed the backing to expose the tubing from the broken spout to a coupling behind the enclosure. Cut the tubing to length on the replacement tip, secured coupling, installed adn then put the door back together.

Easy repair once you figure out how the door is assembled. Note there are two replacement parts supplied in the kit. You only need one, but.... don't throw anything away yet, we have a special use for the extra part. 1) Pull the surround to reveal the mounting point for the dispenser. There is an inner panel that has a couple screws that needs to come out. 2) Disconnect the switch plate from the harness. Ensure you have the wire colors written down. My fridge had them marked on the switch, but be sure to check first. 3) Disconnect the water line under the door. Instructions show a threaded coupling, but mine was a press fit. Easy to undo, just put pressure on the collar at the union, then pull the tube out. 4) Remember the extra tube in the kit? This is where to use it. The tube in the door follows a channel down to the door hinge. However, it sometimes hangs up on the hinge ferrel, which means you have to pull the door to fish it out. To avoid having to pull the door, use the extra tube as a "fish tape." String or twine works just as well. Tape (duct tape, electrical tape, etc.) the end of the old tube to the extra tub supplied in the kit. You can tell which one by comparing the nozzle ends, they are different. You want this tape joint to be smooth without a big bulge. 5) Remove the screw holding the old nozzle and gently pull the old nozzle and tube from the door. 6) Disconnect the old tube from the extra tube, then connect the new replacement tube to the extra tube. 7) Carefully draw the new tube into the door. 8) Disconnect the extra tube from the new tube and reconnect the new tube to the water line. 9)Mount the nozzle, re-install the inner panel, re-connect the switch assembly, then reassemble the surround.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.