LER3622PQ3 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

just like the guy in the video. It was easy to folow his instructions, and the best thing of all i could stop the video if I had a question and then resume!

Unplug electrical
remove 2 screws from lent screen handle
remove lent screen
using putty knife, insert about 2" from each side at the front of the dryer just below the top cover to release 2 keepers.
pull up on cabinet top and lean top backwards out of the way.
remove 2 screws holding the switch located at the top right inside of the dryer door.
pinch the plastic keeper while pushing down to release wiring assembly from dryer cabinet
using a small blade screwdriver, disconnect wiring connection
discard old assembly
reverse all steps to replace with new door switch

I watched a U Tube video about banging sound from dryer. Once I recognized the problem, lifted the top, removed 2 screws holding the front, removed the drum, and bingo. Saw the worn out drum roller. Ordered the replacement parts from "PartSelect" on line (Great Company). Was in no hurry, so I chose regular mail delivery. 4 days later, got the correct replacement parts, put the dryer back together, and now, the dryer is quieter then when I bought it new, a thousand years ago. I will never again be afraid to tackle an appliance issue. THANK YOU !!!

Unplugged stove . Removed floor of oven . Easy . Removed the ignitor ,near back of stove under removed floor . .Left it in place to enable locating where wire came through back of stove . Pulled the stove away from wall . Removed back panel of stove . followed ignitor wire to its plug in position . Returned to the front of stove . Inserted new ignitor wire through back wall of stove . Went behind stove , pulled wire through enough to plug new ignitor into proper position . Put back panel onto stove . Pushed stove back against wall . Went back into oven to screw new ignitor into place . Replaced oven floor panels . Put cooking racks back in . Wife proceeded to bake once again .

Those 2 little parts I ordered
Door Switch Assembly
And
Thermal Fuse
I thought the Thermal Fuse was the main thing that caused the dryer to quit working, I was pissed lol, so I went ahead and installed the Door Switch Assembly, which hadn't work for quite awhile, and bingo it worked, oh my god I was so happy, and it was so easy to do!!!!

Went on line and determined the problem was the thermal fuse. Removed the rear panel of the dryer, removed the leads from the thermal fuse, hooked them together and started the dryer. That confirmed the problemwas the existing fuse.Ordered the new thermal fuse, installed the fuse, hooked up the wires and it works finel Very simple fix. About a 10 year old dryer.

I follow the instructions from the video you guys show the only issue is putting back the tensioner in place but my brother leaves next door and help me.

I checked the Thermal Fuse and it was okay. Then I tested the timer and it was not working. Then I ordered the timer from this site and installed it in about 30 min. The dryer is now working.

Turn off Gas, unplug electric cord, remove rear cover, remove two screws holding the lint trap to the top, raise top flip[ping to the back supporting it not to damage wiring, remove bottom front cover, remove door springs, remove front cover, disengage belt tensioner, remove drum. unclip right side roller and remove, unbolt left wheel mount from the rear and the bracket in the front, remove clips or cut off (new ones come with new clips). clean the wheel shafts, light sanding if needed, apply light coat of lithium grease. replace wheels and reassemble dryer in the reverse order from disassemble. roll drum by hand after front back on to ensure it rolls without catching. Finish and test.

Unplugged dryer, unscrewed back, and replaced fuse. Easy as 123. Video showed what to do step by step! I am not a handy man, just a woman trying to be money5 smart. Anyone could do this and save on home repairs.

removed the rear panel to gain access to the internals of the dryer, removed the one screw that retains the fuse, out with the old and in with the new.
delivery of the part was 2 days sooner than expected.
could not have been a simpler process!

replaced internal dryer filter housing

I remove the lint trap and the two screws that held the top down. Next to unscrew the two screws that holds the door switch. I prized the top up with a screwdriver . I unplugged the door switch and plugged in the new one. I inserted the switch into the door and replace the screws. I snapped the top back into place and replace the screws in the lint trap. I close the door and turn the dryer on and it worked. I followed the directions you provided on line. They were very easy to follow.

First and foremost turn power off to dryer at main box. Next remove screws say lint filter, then gently pry right and left front corners up with putty knife. Raise top and secure. Disconnect switch wire by using flathead sliding in between connection. Next remove 2 screws under front opening to dislodge switch. Repeat process in reverse order...takes 30 min. tops...

Hi, I am a working mom, and my dryer quit just after it had been behaving strangely. At first, it kept spinning after the door was opened. It eventually stopped working, and I assumed that the door switch must be the culprit. I purchased the part from the catalogue, and watched the installation video. Repair: After unplugging the dryer and removing the lint screen, I used a philips head screwdriver to loosen and remove the two screws located at the lint trap. I then inserted a flat screwdriver into the area between the top of the dryer casing and the face. Per the video, at approx. 2 inches in from the left and right side. I did this while gently applying pressure from the back of the dryer top to the front. This loosens the clips allowing the top to be lifted back and out of the way. I then opened the dryer door and commenced loosening and removing the two screws that hold the dryer switch in place. I used my screwdriver to gently separate the wiring harness connection, as it also has a clip to keep the connection tight. With these items free, I simply popped the little black thingy back through the hole (The black thingy just keeps the slack in the wiring from sagging, I think). With the old part removed, I then installed the new part accordingly. I reversed my way back out of the process respectively. I plugged her back in, and turned her on. Back in business.