AE9233 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

It was so easy to repair that my wife did it. She used a screw driver to pop out the old, worn plastic part that the door latch goes into and snapped in the new part and it was all done. So nice to be able to fix it yourself!

Loosened the screws, took out the old one. It shorted out to back. Inserted the new one attached wires, Installed screws and it worked

Repair part just snapped into place. It took longer to open the bag then do the repair. I thought it was going to be difficult to find a part for this dryer but partselect had the right part.
Thanks

A simple repair. Just a screwdriver was needed (and of course the latch parts), Took all of 5 minutes

To remove and install the new parts, I followed the video instruction at whirlpool.com. Then removed the old knobs and put the new ones in. The new one created a rough contact and needed a little lithium grease to make a smooth insertion to prevent the friction from damaging the new part. It was an easy fix and took about ten minutes. Good luck in your repairs!

unscrew the screws at bottom front of dryer, lift outward, upward, the bottom of the front of the dryer. As the dryer front tilts outward/upward from the bottom, the area where its hinged at the top of the front will disengage from the main frame of the dryer and the face of the front of the dryer comes off. remove the old door latch by manipulating the plastic body of the latch (wiggle, twist pinch . . .) until, from the back, you can push the old latch forward through the front of the front of the dryer. At this point, you can put the new door latch back in from the front and push it in to place.

The dryer door on my mom's Maytag SG1000 (washer/dryer stacked unit) wouldn't stay closed; the latch had finally broken. The replacement kit includes both the female latch and the male striker. I replaced both even though the old striker was still good. The old parts were easily pried out and removed with a small flat-blade screwdriver. But what the PartSelect website, and the other "repair stories" found here, fail to mention is that the male striker is held in place with a small metal "door strike retainer" plate that falls down into the door as soon as you pry off the striker. You will need a small Phillips screwdriver to take the door apart and retrieve the plate. After snapping the new striker into the plate the door can be reassembled -- a simple job that only takes a couple of minutes.

clothes drier didn't work, tore the drier apart, found problem went looking for the part locally, didn't find it, got mad, went on line, found Parts Select, ordered part, part under $20.00 delivered, part delivered, put everything back together , can dry clothes again, didn't have to find $350.00 to go buy a new drier. Merry Christmas!

To start the repair, I removed the two front panels. Disconnecting the wiring to door and light. Next removing dryer drum and drive belt[ allows access to belt tensioner] replace tensioner roller, then reassemble. Dryer works fine

remove the housing under the dryer door. take out the lint trap. I took the whole bottom off the dryer to easily get to the tensioner pully. I then loosened the tub and slid off the old belt and replaced it.

Lifted the top of the dryer removed two screws and pulled the front of the Dryer forward. Slipped the new belt over the drum and over the motor pulley.
Pushed the front back in place and snapped the top of the dryer down and the job was complete.
I thought the part would take three days to get here.
It was delivered the day after I ordered it.

The instructions that accompanied the part was extremely helpful. I removed two screws, lifted off the front panel, used the pliers to remove the old latch, pushed the new latch into the hole. I then replaced the panel (The part that is attached to the door was not broken). I tightened the two screws and the job was complete. I saved a very expensive service call. :)

removed the front of dryer panel below the door. Cleaned out all the lint. Pulled two screws with an extended nut driver. slid out the old element. I dentified the part . ordered, when the part came in I put a few simple componets on the new, slid it back in. Turned on the power to make sure it was working then reinstalled the front cover. works fine

once I found where the heat element was, it took me a few mintues to remove the bad one and replace it with the new one that came before the due date. very good instruction in kit. Be sure and leave the old one hooked up until the new unit comes in so you can do a easy exchange of the wiring.

used one nut driver, basically took the whole machine apart. took snap ring off the idler shaft, replaced pulley, and put it back together. simple job.