NED4705EW1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

removed the back housing of the dryer and located the thermal switch. unscrewed the old one, popped in the new one and whala! I was back in business!

put the back cover back on the dryer and pushed it back into place.

Slam Dunk, in less than 1 hour I replaced the element myself I saved 100.00 over a repair man and 400.00 over a replacement.

Removed the back panel, took out two screws and replaced the element. Turned out the element was fine, the sensors were bad. Replaced them. Works like knew. I had the parts with in two days of ordering.

removed back of dryer heat element was easy to remove and replace with new unit,easy job

Repair was fast and easy,just took off back panel,and removed heating element part. just a couple nuts, and unplug old unit, and plug in new one! Part recieved super fast and exact match!

removed broken parts & snapped in new catch

After only 4 years, my Maytag dryer stopped producing any heat although it would continue to run (drum would turn) but never auto-shut-off. After reading several entries on this site I narrowed the issue down to the 'Heating Element'. I've never done a dryer repair before but I took a shot and ordered the part. I unplugged the dryer first (of course) then removed the 8 or 10 1/4" screws from the back of the dryer which removed the entire back panel. I also had to disconnect the dryer vent. The heating element is on the bottom right, covered by a silver aluminum casing. I removed another 2 screws to take out that casing (and the element with it). Next was simply using a pair of pliers to remove one wire at a time from the old element and connecting it to the new element in the same place. There were only 3 or 4 total. I put everything back together, plugged it in a voila - I had a working dryer again. I just took my time and made sure everything was hooked up exactly as it was before. This site was such a huge help, thanks!

I removed the metal piece which held the plastic "catch". There were no screws, squeeze to remove it. Then inserted the plastic part and re-inserted the metal part into the dryer door. Very simple. But even more pleasing was the easy ordering and the quick delivery of the part! Thank you so much!

Took back cover off, unhooked wires,removed screws,removed heating element,put new element on and reinstalled everything else..Now it has great heat!

Pulled Dryer away from wall and unplug. Removed back cover. Used my ohm-meter to check fuse ok. Then checked heater element no continuity. Removed two screws and three wires holding unit in place. Visibly checked coils and found break so I knew that was the problem. Ordered heating element and replaced in reverse order. Solved the problem now have dryer that works again.

Checked components that could be the problem as shown in the trouble shooting video, such as the fuse or thermal overloads. All of these checks are done with the multi-meter in the resistance (ohm) mode. All checks were good until the heating element check showed no continuity. Removed the heating element and could visibly see the break in the coil. Ordered the heating element. Installed it. The dryer works fine now producing heat as it should. THESE CHECKS ARE DONE WITH ELECTRICAL POWER TURNED OFF, UNPLUGGED, DISCONNECTED. FOLLOW INSTRUCTION VIDEO. Thankyou

I unplugged the dryer and took the back off the appliance.
I looked online to see what the problem probably was. I saw a diagram of where the heating element was. It had two small screws holding the element on. I removed them and detached three wires from the side of it being careful to write down what wire went where.
The part select repair site popped up on an internet search so I ordered the heating element, and the fuse and thermostat and another piece. Some of the wires were loose at other places so I reattached them and tightened them. I think the only part the dryer actually needed was the piece about a foot up from the heating element.It was in the thermal cut off kit that I ordered. After replacing the other three parts, I replaced that and the heat came on. Eureka! I love my cordless screwdriver. It made taking the screws out and reinstalling them a breeze. I did notice on this dryer that it says to only use a metal vent, not foil or plastic as they can be a fire hazard. I bought the dryer for forty dollars on craigslist and have spent about a hundred and fifteen dollars fixing it up including a new dryer belt and door latch. I am looking foward to repairing something else. From a 50 year old lady. It was easier than making biscuits.

I first unplugged the dryer and pulled it away from the wall. I had to remove the vent tubing to gain access to the rear of the unit, then removed the screws on the back panel of the dryer. I took off the panel and noticed that lint that had gathered over the years around the back of the dryer. I vacuumed it clean then proceeded to problem solve. I noticed four easily identifiable areas, the thermal cut-off switch and thermostat located by the heating coil and the thermostat and fuse near the venting area. I first checked the fuse with a ohm meter, it was okay. I removed each component one at a time and created a bypass with a alligator clip wire. Plugged the dryer back in to determine if heat was produced while testing each area one at a time. I determined that heat was produced after bypassing the thermal cut-off switch. I then ordered the thermal cut-off switch kit (arrived within 3 days) and installed it within 20 minutes. The longest time spent was trouble shooting, the removal and installation was very easy. By the way, I did use the ohm meter to check the resistance across the thermostats as indicated in previous postings, but I found the results and technique to be more confusing. A bypass worked the best for me and much more reliable. The heat started immediately. I highly recommend downloading the schematics of your unit for part number and location identification.

Made sure the Dryer was unplugged. Removed the screws from the back of the Dryer. Removed the screws that held the heating element in place. (mine was located on the bottom right side)Disconnected the the wires leading to the heating element. The connectors holding the wires in place were very snug, I had to use needle nose pliers to remove them. Then I just simply reversed the process. The edges are very sharp also.

It went as I expected opened the back with the nutdriver about 6 screws. And the element waste right infront detached the wires and pulled it out cut myself on the sharp edge but not to bad the only trouble I had was getting the thermostat off the old element