CE8407W2-PCE8407W2 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

The old door catch broke and fell into the unit. Ordered the new part which arrived fast and snapped it into place. Perfect fit and the door now closes/latches correctly - like new again. Would recommend your web site to all do-it-yourselfers. Loved browsing your site, especially seeing all of the schematics and parts list for my unit.

removed the front of dryer panel below the door. Cleaned out all the lint. Pulled two screws with an extended nut driver. slid out the old element. I dentified the part . ordered, when the part came in I put a few simple componets on the new, slid it back in. Turned on the power to make sure it was working then reinstalled the front cover. works fine

Loosened the screws, took out the old one. It shorted out to back. Inserted the new one attached wires, Installed screws and it worked

I used a screwdriver to pry out the broken door latch and inserted the new one in the same slot. Perfect fit. The picture of the part in the order page was a big help to identify the correct part.

replace rollers

once I found where the heat element was, it took me a few mintues to remove the bad one and replace it with the new one that came before the due date. very good instruction in kit. Be sure and leave the old one hooked up until the new unit comes in so you can do a easy exchange of the wiring.

After reading about the things that can cause a dryer not to heat - clogged vent leading to thermal overload, heating element burned out, I took a look at the vents to make sure they were clean. The vent door on the outside of the house was frozen shut, sealed by frozen lint. After popping off the lower panel (2 nuts) and taking out the heating element panel (another 2 nuts) I visually inspected the "spring" heating wire for a break and didn't see one. I checked the thermal fuse for continuity and it was open, so I ordered a new one. After it arrived, it took 10 mins to get the drer back together. Easy repair, recommend doing it yourself and getting the parts from these guys because they're so quick and the prices are good. For $50 I could have had the complete heating assembly if I needed it - which is less than a call out from Sears or an appliance company by itself.

I had to disassemble the whole thing and figure out what I needed. The new guide wheel and belt installed easy. The only hard part was trying to figure out how the dryer went back together.

I'm work in biomed/maintenance field, so I'm used to taking things apart. This was the 1st time I've tackled somthing like this. If your reasonably handy you could do this too. It only cost $30 to repair which was much less than buying a refurbed one.

You have to take apart the whole dryer to get to the belt.Nut driver with cordless drill make it go so much faster.Unplug dry, take apart dryer and replace with olr belt with new belt.Takes about 20 minutes to do.plus I took off the two guide wheels on back of cabinet and greased everything.Works like brand new.I had a repair guy tell me I needed a new motor.If you can spin the drum by hand replace belt first.

Lifted the top of the dryer removed two screws and pulled the front of the Dryer forward. Slipped the new belt over the drum and over the motor pulley.
Pushed the front back in place and snapped the top of the dryer down and the job was complete.
I thought the part would take three days to get here.
It was delivered the day after I ordered it.

I dismantled the dryer and replaced the thermostat and the heating element. The online videos are excellent. Thanks

removed the lower cover, tipped the dryer on its back for easier access, unscrewed the 2 mounting screws removed the heating element, installed the thermostat and and high tempt relay on new one replaced the wires reinstalled the new element, very simple

I ordered the part. ( I should have ordered just in case it happens again.) When it got here it took less than a minute to snap it in.

Removed the heat coil and checked for continuity with ohm meter. Coil was good. Then checked for continuity across thermal fuse (located on the heater coil unit). Fuse was bad.
Ordered fuse and replaced. Problem solved.

Online research ... found PartSelect ... pointed to High Limit Thermal Fuse being most likely culprit ... bought Limit Thermostat just in case to save shipping ... turns out probably didn't need it, but replaced while the heater assembly was out in open. Only had to remove bottom "kick-plate," then Lint Duct Assembly (good thing ... was half full with debris) ... then heating element ... total 11 screws ... easy ... half time research, half work.