NE6813W43831 Speed Queen Dryer - Instructions

Unplug dryer. Remove lower panel.Remove dryer lent duct. Remove Thermostat fm fan housing. Remove Fan.Remove Fan housing. Remove Motor assy by sliding out, wires lay toward front, allowing room to replace idler pulley and spring. Use lock ring pliers to remove pulley from shaft. Grease pulley/shaft w/high temp grease [I used ultra-hi temp ceramic brake grease-can get in small packets at auto stores].Noise/slippage has all but stopped. Lesson: replace rear rollers and front felt/glides. Belt looseness also caused by worn rear rollers [smaller overall diameter from age]-even though they spin freely

undone 2 hoses and popped off brackets

First unplug washer and turn water off (both hot and cold) You only need to pull washer out away from wall about 1 1/2 feet. Take a putty knife and slide under the front corner of the control panel ( both sides one at a time) lift up corner as you slide putty knife under the corner. After both sides are released on the control panel slide control panel forward( about an inch) to release rear of panel and flip panel over the top. Unplug the lid safety switch then with a screw driver unsnap the cabinet straps one on both sides that were under the control panel. Put screw driver into the spring strap end closest to you and push screw driver back which will release the straps( one on each side). Next tilt the cabinet toward from the back( about 6 ") and lift up about 2 " the cabinet can now be removed. Undue the two hoses on the water pump that is located at the bottom of the washer in the front ( make sure you catch the water from the hoses in a small pan). Undue the two spring clips that hold the pump on. Pull pump straight out (about 1 ") discard old pump and install new one in reverse order. When reinstalling the cabinet there are two stubs on the bottom bracket on the washer that have to put into the slots in the lower front corners of the cabinet ( the hardest part of the whole project is putting the cabinet back on, the trick is what I described above with the slots in the lower front corners. Good luck it very easy to do.

Of course I tried to determine where the leak was from. There wasn't a solid flow of water and was confined to the front. Pulled the washer out and laid it down. Noticed that a metal clip had a little corrosion on it and followed it back to the water pump seal. Removed two hoses and unclipped the pump. That's it. No screws or nuts. Looks like it was expected to fail and was easy to replace. It did last for 20 years though.

Flip washer on its back, Undo/flip the clips/clamps off the water pump, remove the clamps from the hose and remove hoses from water pump, slide the pump off the direct drive, line up the shaft/drive with the new water pump and slide into position and return the clamps to secure water pump in place and reattach water hoses and clamp to the water pump. There should be two hoses going to the water pump, flip washer back upright and run a cycle to make sure the problem has been fixed

The round exhaust duct in the back my dryer can be removed simply by pulling straight out. This gives full access to the belt tension wheel. Slip belt off the wheel, remove snap ring with snap ring pliers, remove washer and wheel. Install new wheel, attach belt, and reinstall duct by looking right down the middle to line up properly. Dryer sounds like new again. 10 minute job.

I unscrewed the door catch and pried out with some resistance the strike part. Screwed in the catch and pushed in the strike. Closed door. Voila!! Back in business with assurance.

The door switch was easy to replace. It is located in the right bottom of the door and I popped out with my fingers. Follow the wire connectors from the old switch and remounted back in.

I began by removing the two screws at the lower part of the front panel. After removing the panel I was able to access and remove the broken switch which was located on the front panel. I popped out the old switch and replaced it with the new one, reattached the wires and put the front panel on and the jod was done.

Unscrewed front panel. Pulled off unbroken wire connecter and popped switch and put new one in. Replaced front panel.

Installed the new part. Worked great!

My husband pulled drum out of dryer and replaced the idler pulley wheel and decided to replace the belt while he was in there. It's good to have a snap ring tool as it's a pain to replace the snap ring without this tool. Goes alot quicker!

Frist I removed the two water hoses going to the pump. Second releaseed the two clips holding the pump , it came right off the motor shaft.
Third, put the new pump on the shaft, put the clips on last the hoses good to go.

Removed the 2 screws from the bottom of the front panel and pulled the cover up and out. Labeled the wires to the light and door switch and disconnected. Lifted the belt tensioner arm and unlooped the belt from it and the motor. Removed the 4 bolts that hold the front drum support on then held the drum up and removed the support. Pulled the drum out slightly and allowed the rear to drop, at this point you can get to the rear rollers without pulling the drum out of the machine. The roller shaft was so tight I had to put a straight-blade bit in a 1/4" socket to get enough torque to break it loose. Make sure to use a large enough driver or you will strip the slot out of the screw. This model had a nut on the back but I was able to just drag my finger against it to get it apart. Removed the washer and roller from the shaft and cleaned the shaft and washer with WD40 before reinstalling with the new roller. Vacuumed all the lint I could get to and reassembled, lift drum, push back, front support, 4 bolts, belt, wires, front panel, 2 screws.

Just follow the video. The hardest part is getting the top to disengage from the clips.