EE2107 Speed Queen Dryer - Instructions

Took 2 screws out of the bottom of the dryer so the front face plate came off. This allowed access to the door latch catch, which was easy to pull out with pliers. Pushed in new latch catch until it "popped" into place. Easy, easy, easy!

It was so easy to repair that my wife did it. She used a screw driver to pop out the old, worn plastic part that the door latch goes into and snapped in the new part and it was all done. So nice to be able to fix it yourself!

A simple repair. Just a screwdriver was needed (and of course the latch parts), Took all of 5 minutes

removed old broken piece with screw driver and pliers...
replaced with new part with thumbs as pushers.

To remove and install the new parts, I followed the video instruction at whirlpool.com. Then removed the old knobs and put the new ones in. The new one created a rough contact and needed a little lithium grease to make a smooth insertion to prevent the friction from damaging the new part. It was an easy fix and took about ten minutes. Good luck in your repairs!

Replaced the Latch

My problem was that my AMANA dryer would not heat. The site suggested testing the two thermostats so I opened the dryer but didn’t follow the instructions in the video tutorial on the site since my AMANA is different. I used a nut driver and needle-nosed pliers for the whole job. Here’s what I did:

1. Unplugged the dryer.

2. Disconnected the exhaust pipe at the dryer.

3. Pulled dryer away from back wall about two feet.

4. Removed the two bottom panel screws (floor level) and removed panel.

5. Removed the two door panel screws and removed door panel by pulling out at the bottom until the two spring clips released from the top panel.

6. Noted the colors of the wires going to the door switch and removed (green, black and white from left to right).

7. Noted the colors of the wires going to the lamp and removed (bottom - black and top - red.)

8. Removed the two top panel screws, lifted up the top panel and leaned it against a support.

9. Removed the four bulkhead screws and carefully lifted up and removed the bulkhead being sure to support the drum. Took note of the belt path around the motor and idler pulleys.

10. Reached under the drum and took the belt off the idler pulley and motor drive pulley.

11. Used the belt to lift and remove the drum through the front opening.

I noticed that the internal vent pipe had become disconnected (which probably caused internal overheating) so I fixed that.

I then removed the wires to the thermostats and tested both for continuity. The limit thermostat was bad. I also saw that the belt was becoming cracked. I ordered a new limit thermostat and belt.

Installation of the new parts was a snap. I removed the old thermostat with the nut driver and replaced with the new one and pushed the wire connectors back on. Replacing the belt was a little trickier but not a problem. (Be sure to route the new belt correctly as noted on Step 9 and place ribbed surface next to drum.)

I closed up the dryer by reversing the opening steps.

The instructions that accompanied the part was extremely helpful. I removed two screws, lifted off the front panel, used the pliers to remove the old latch, pushed the new latch into the hole. I then replaced the panel (The part that is attached to the door was not broken). I tightened the two screws and the job was complete. I saved a very expensive service call. :)

Pop out with screwdriver and push in new part. easy

I followed the video on the site which was really helpful.I took the door off without problem. I had to take the bottom panel off the front and unscrew screws on large front panel.Replacing the latch was a breeze. Just as shown on video. Be careful that dryer drum doesn't fall down off wheels. My did and had to push it back up.Replaced all panels and screws and it works great.

as described in video. Very well done. Thank you

unscrew the screws at bottom front of dryer, lift outward, upward, the bottom of the front of the dryer. As the dryer front tilts outward/upward from the bottom, the area where its hinged at the top of the front will disengage from the main frame of the dryer and the face of the front of the dryer comes off. remove the old door latch by manipulating the plastic body of the latch (wiggle, twist pinch . . .) until, from the back, you can push the old latch forward through the front of the front of the dryer. At this point, you can put the new door latch back in from the front and push it in to place.

The dryer door on my mom's Maytag SG1000 (washer/dryer stacked unit) wouldn't stay closed; the latch had finally broken. The replacement kit includes both the female latch and the male striker. I replaced both even though the old striker was still good. The old parts were easily pried out and removed with a small flat-blade screwdriver. But what the PartSelect website, and the other "repair stories" found here, fail to mention is that the male striker is held in place with a small metal "door strike retainer" plate that falls down into the door as soon as you pry off the striker. You will need a small Phillips screwdriver to take the door apart and retrieve the plate. After snapping the new striker into the plate the door can be reassembled -- a simple job that only takes a couple of minutes.

Only needed half the parts. Installed the catch for the door and saved the other part.

After 20+ years of service, the plastic part that holds the dryer door closed, broke. I orderd the replacement part on a Monday and received it on Wednesday!
By applying constant pressure with my thumb, the replacement part 'snapped' into place - all of 4 seconds.
Fast delivery of parts and fast instal, made for a great day.