SE1000T Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I followed the directions in the package and the wonderful video tutorial that part select had posted for my appliance. My dryer was about 13 years old and had never been repaired. I opted to replace all the wheels (2 drum and one pulley for my machine) as well as the belt, and while the machine is taken apart, why not vacuum the interior. It went back together nicely. Parts cost: just under $100. Labor saved: about $175.

I googled the model number and partselect.com was the first hit. I picked the the correct parts and it even showed me a video on how to replace the parts. Pretty easy to do and saved me from buying a new dryer:-) The repair was done in 20 minutes.

looking and listening more closely . i determined that the noise was coming from the idle wheel pulie bearings

remove door screws on both sides of door opening. remove front panel. replace thermostat

MOved all my wifes stuff, disasembled the dryer based one the instructions I found on Google. Located the worn out parts. Reassembled the unit with the new parts, which were an exact match, immagin that. Hooked the power back up. (Note: Safty First allways disconect the power source first. And it is recommended to give the unit and the vent system a through cleaning when you have it disasembled.) Gave trhe unit a quick smoke test. Job complete, wife almost happy,(Question ? if it was that simple to fix the Dryer why did you wait so long. Life is good once again.

This repair can be made entirely from the front of the unit, so long as access to the front of the unit is good. Unplug the dryer. Remove the two front panel screws (bottom front of the panel). Hinge the front panel upwards along the top seam until the clips disengage. Unplug the door switch and remove the wires from the wire guide on the front panel. Set the front panel aside. Remove the wires from the wire guide on the front drum support. Remove the four 5/16" headed fasteners for the front drum support. Lift the front drum support upwards slightly and remove it front the unit. On a workbench use a 1/4" drill bit to drill the heads off the rivets that hold the drum slides (or glides) to the front drum support. Remove the slides and cork pads, or what's left of them. Thoroughly clean any residue from the mounting areas with solvent (brake clean, goof off, etc). Instal the new cork pads and plastic slides lining up and riveting one side, then the other. Now is also a good time to scrape any hard to get lint out of the exhaust well. Compressed air and a plastic scraper work well for this. Reinstall the front drum support, taking care to line up the holes. Place the door switch wires back in the wire guide on the front drum support. Reinstall the door switch wires in the wire guide on the front panel and plug them back into the switch. Reinstall the front panel and fasteners. Plug in and test run the dryer. Note: given the age of these machines it is a good idea to replace the drum rollers and washers at the same time as the drum slides. If one side of the system that keeps the drum running true has failed the other side has likely been damaged as a result. Having the parts on hand and at least inspecting them will save you the frustration of not fixing the issue and having to take the machine apart again. Also, noise related to the drum guidance system tends to start 10-20 minutes after the machine is started, and get worse as it runs. If the noise starts immediately the problem is more likely the belt. Again, given the age of the machine if you want to make sure you fix all possible weak points at once having a belt and tensioner on hand while doing the repairs is a good idea. I find you can fix all the age related failure issues at a cost much less than 1/2 that of a new machine of comprable quality.

I watched the vidio but after begining the repair,I realized that the drum roller could be replaced without removing the tumbling drum. This made the replacement go even faster & easier. Great website. Great vidio. I'll be back,given the age of this dryer.

I followed video, took out two screws from bottem front of dryer. removed door set a side, used a nut driver to remove the 4 nuts holding the front drum panel, I used a 1/8 drill to remove 4 pop-rivets holding what use to be front glides,I put the new glides in cork parts first then the plastic parts, than used my poprivet gun to but in the new rivets. I put it all back together and now no more holes in my underwear!!!

After watching the video on this web-site it was very easy. I took the time while I had the drum out to vacuum out everything inside the cabinet and sprayed the sealing felts with silicone spray before re-assembling the unit. Wallah!! No 'mo' squeaks. Tommy

I followed the instructions

I disconnected the power. Then I removed the two screws on the front of dryer, lifted front panel to the side. Installed part with the two screws included. Plugged in two wires. I put the front of the dryer back in place and replaced the two screws holding it. I'm a 67 year old women not a mechanic and if I could do it so can you.

followed the simple instructions

What sounded like a drum roller problem, actually turned out to be a blower fan problem. Replacing the plastic blower fan which is mounted to the motor shaft is simple easily accessible from the front of the machine.

I bought a washer and dryer from a coworker several years ago. The set was already probably 15 years old. I used them for a few years, then ended up putting them in storage for about 4 more years. When my wife and I bought a house, the dryer came out of storage making a squeeking noise. It would go away after running for a few minutes, but those first 30 seconds sounded awful. I ordered the part from Partselect.com and it arrived on schedule. I followed the video that was posted on the page of the part and everything went as planned. I'm not sure how old this set is, but I easily gained a few more years! Thanks!

replaced both roller supportsstill sqealing need advice to proceed