MDE9557AYA Maytag Dryer - Instructions

If you are cursed with owning a Maytag product then you'll be glad PartSelet.com is in business. I get all my parts here.

My dryer motor burnt a phase. The tear down was very straight forward since there isn't much to a dryer. I did the tear down in the driveway. The dryer was full of lint so I blasted it with compressed air to clean it up. Keep all your parts in labeled baggies as you do the tear down. Reassembly goes much faster. The hardest part about changing the motor was getting the motor clips off. They are tough buggers. I used slip-joint pliers & finally popped them off. This job is simply enough for the average monkey. Just use the diagrams on partselect.com if you forget where something goes.

I shipped everything via fedex 2-day. It took 5 days to get here. partselect shipped it fast. fedex was the problem. I guess the boys at fedex have a public education is they think 5=2.

It was very simple. I removed the fromt cover on the dryer. The heating element was easy to get to and after removing all the attached wires and 4 nuts. The new element was installed, reattached the wire correctly and put the screws back in place. It was extremely easy to complete.

Ohmed coils and both had continuity so I changed radiant heat sensor. No bench test for Radiant Heat sensor. Same problem. Changed both coils and dryer works fine. Weak coils were my problem. I read thru the same issues in Parts Select forum and it said Radiant Heat sensor was problem 25% of the time. With coils having continuity and no ohm value specified for coils I made wrong choice but, I have spare parts and look for another 10 years of life in the dryer. Nice to have this forum to research appliance repair. Very helpful for parts location and installation. Dishwasher is next!

loosened two screws on back of top,lifted top away from front panel.it just lifts off front corners,removed two screws at top corners.lift front panel up and out,this panel supports dryer tub,remove slowly,unplug door switch parts are located left side bottom two screws holding in had to have wife hold drum up to put front panel on

Press in the new female latch part with thumbs. Took about two seconds!

I used a flat screw driver to pop out the old female portion and snapped in the new one. Dryer stays shut. That's it!

A year or so ago I replaced one drum wheel. The dryer worked fine for months until it started sqeaking again. When I removed the wheels again the shaft was no longer round but half moon shaped. this allowed the drum to drop lower than it's supposed to. consequently the drum ate through the back drum support. I replaced the back drum support and the roller shafts, in addition to two new rollers. It works great now. The more difficult part of the repair was replacing the rear drum support. It is screwed in from the back and requires two people. Everything else I did by myself. The lesson: If you replace the rollers, be sure the roller shafts are not worn. An asymetric shaft eventually causes more parts to wear out.

I watched the video

Verified timer as faulty with use of schematic and ohmmeter, Element, motor switch, and thermostats within specs, no continuity on pink/black timer leads on any cycle.
First remove the back cover consisting of three phillips screws and two 1/4" hex head sheet metal screws. Then pull timer knob straight off and subsequently remove the two 1/4 " hex head self-tapping machine screws. Then remove each spade terminal, one at a time, connecting them to the terminals on the new timer. Note- the timer has the wire colors imprinted on the body if you do not replace one at a time.
Reverse the above procedure for assembly, noting the position of the timer knob will align with the "keyed" shaft.

I followed the advice posted by other customers. I took the front off the dryer, put the door back in place and ran a cycle. I could see that the igniter was heating properly, but no gas was flowing. Based on what I read I concluded that it was a problem with one of the gas valve coils. It was relatively inexpensive to replace both (and the dry is 10 years old), so I didn't go to the trouble of determining the bad one. I replaced them both. Obviously I unplugged the dryer (no need to turn off gas). There were 2 screws that held the bracket in place which holds the coils. I disconnected the coils, removed the bracket screws, replaced the coils, reattached the bracket screws and reconnected the coils. I then reattached the front plate to the dryer. It was very easy and took about 20 minutes and I had never worked on a dryer before.

After taking one last look through the access port prior to ripping the back off the dryer in order to access the heat exchanger fuse, I noticed I had inadvertantly un-plugged the gas solenoid. I reapplied the plugs to the solenoid and, voila, I had flame.

I am thankful to know I have a source in case I encounter other appliance problems, though. This one was a no-brainer but the next one might be more difficult. Thank you.

First changed the ignitor, which did not fix the problem. Unpug Dryer. Removed the front panel by taking out the 2 phillips screws and pulling the bottom of the panel out first, releasing the top clips. Remove the clip holding the coils on and replace them. Plugs just pull off, each are different so cn't mix them up. Both sensor and thermostat are pretty easy to get to using 1/4" drive socket. the screws can be a bit tough to get back in, but be patient. Wiring is pretty straight forward, remove from the old part and put on the new, same orientation. This is a good time to vacuum out the bottom of the dryer to get any loose lint out. Return the front panel, tilting out at the bottom to engage the top clips. Plugged it in and worked like a charm

Removed four philips screws, two holding door on and two on opposite side of door in order to remove front cover. Then removed two 5/16 screws holding clips that lock the top cover down. Then the top cover hinges up with open access to the drum. The baffles are held into place with two #10 x 1 1/4" screws with 5/16" head each. These had pulled through the drum. Installed new baffles (do NOT come with screws / you'll have to buy some). Had to put small washers (also had to buy) on the screws to hold it onto the drum since the other screw heads pulled through the drum. Closed lid, installed retaining clips, installed door onto frame, installed front cover around door, then screwed door hinges into front cover and screws to other side. Took about as long to write these directions as it did to actually do the work... EASY job!!

The replacement part just snapped into place. (The old part had fallen out) It took less than 30 seconds to do the repair.

Unplug dryer--remove back panel of control console--swap out buzzer--cover back--plug in--good to go.