LDG710 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I did it the hard way from the back by removing the motor. The easy way is from the front. From the front there are 2 screws about 5 inches above the floor. Also, remove the 4 screws in the tumbler behind the lent filter. Swing out the front panel from the bottom and it will release at the top. Remove 2 screws on left and right side of the front tumbler cover. It will come out now and you can get to the blower wheel which in my case was just spinning on the motor shaft.

Turned off breaker, then unplugged it anyway. I need some room to attack this old dog! Pulled out of its hole beside the washer and went to work. Opps, don't forget the flexible vent, I broke it off about a foot from the dryer. Four screws on back, lower right to remove acccess panel. Next two screws under front panel, pull bottom out about a foot and it unclips at top. Read the 5 repair stories about replacing the motor as I took everything apart, all were helpful. Had to put motor in a vise to loosen set screw on pulley, lucky I had a 3/16 allen socket, that was the only hard part, unless you count getting screws out from under the freezer where I kicked them. Be careful. Still ended up with belt in v-groove on back part of drum (where it does NOT go) so had to reach in from front and pull it out about 4 or 5 inches. Things a quiet now and I am a hero around here. Thanks for the good help fellows.

Found step by step instructions on your website, they were posted by another do-it-yourselfer. The exact make of dryer that I have, and the drawings with part numbers listed was quite helpful. The bad motor came out easy enough and the new one was just like the old so it fit right into place. Strung a new belt around the tumbler drum and dryer is just like NEW. Thank you so much. Probably saved a couple hundred dollars.

After taking one last look through the access port prior to ripping the back off the dryer in order to access the heat exchanger fuse, I noticed I had inadvertantly un-plugged the gas solenoid. I reapplied the plugs to the solenoid and, voila, I had flame.

I am thankful to know I have a source in case I encounter other appliance problems, though. This one was a no-brainer but the next one might be more difficult. Thank you.

I followed the videos on your website, but had to clean 30 years of dust and lint out in the process. Cleaning took the longest time.

Removed and replaced both the thermostat sensor and the ignitor. Tested thej dryer and it worked. Replaced the front panel and it was good to go.

No big deal about replacing a lint filter , take the old one out and put the new one in.

No manual on this so had to remove about 12 screws to figger out disassembly,after locating the right ones[front]the job was easy.Remove front plate,remove drum bearing,remove blower front cover,remove snap ring,remove broken fan,clean fan shaft,slide new fan onto shaft[there is a flat in the bore of new fan]instal fan retainer on stub of fan,reinstal snap ring,reinstal the rest of the parts,test drive system[all sat]The part was exactly as ordered,thanks,Jim Thompson

Replaced all the parts per the very good video provided on the website.
I recommend watching the video very closely several times. BE SURE THE BELT IS NOT IN THE DRUM'S GROOVE. The video mentions this very very briefly; I caught it on my third viewing. If your belt is not the correct location, it may still turn the drum for you - and eat the belt up in about an hour.

After replacing the cycling thermostat failed to fix the problem, I jumped the Dampness sensor, overtemp sensor and flame sensor - no change, flame went out after 15 to 30 seconds. Ordered the replacement coils for the gas control and reconnected all sensors: solved!

1. Removed two screws from front panel.
2. Removed panel.
3. Removed four bolts off tumbler face.
4. Removed face.
5. Removed drum and belt.
6. Vacuumed.
7. Replaced idler spring assembly.
8. Replaced drum.
9. Replaced belt.
10. Rotated drum to make sure belt was properly seated.
11. Replaced tumbler face.
12. Replaced front panel.

I opened the back acess panel and started the dryer. Looking at the motor and idler pulleys it was obvious by the frequency of the squealing noise that it was coming from the idler pulley.
I pulled the retainer clip and tension spring from the idler pulley and removed it. I applied some grease to the shaft and reinstalled the idler pulley.
The squeal was gone confirming that the pulley bushing was dry. I ordered the new idler pulley and when it arrived the next day I cleaned the grease off of the shaft and installed the new idler pulley. Problem solved.

Installation of drum support kit was difficult because my snap ring pliers would not fit in the snap ring holes. Had to use pliers and screw driver to get them off and to put them back on. That took much patience and time. Installation of front guides was a bit difficult because the rivets were loose and turned when trying to drill them out. Also they were bigger and I needed a larger drill bit than the 1/8 told about in the video. Used drill, screw driver and pliers to get the rivets out. Also took more time and patience to do this. Belt did not need replacement but felt it a good idea to do it as long as I was in there. Belt installation was easy because my dryer has a rear view opening and I could use it to thread the belt. Tried it from the front as shown in the video just to see if I could and found it impossible. Could not even get my hands to hold the belt. Also vacuumed out 20 years of lint and dust that was inside the dryer. The videos were excellent in showing what to do and how to do it. Not sure how well I would have done without them.

I took the access panel off the back, realized that belt was in very bad shape. Ordered a belt when I got that changed I put it back together and it still had a clunking noise. Found out that the blower wheel was rounded off where it goes over the shaft. So to change that I took the two front screws off, then the four hex screws off of the tumbler guide. There were eight or so screws over the blower wheel, took those out and the clamp on the blower wheel then used the snap ring pliers for the snap ring, then changed the wheel. Problem solved. This website is very helpful I would not have attempted to fix my dryer without this website.

From the noise level and info on this site, I assumed I needed to replace the drum rollers. I ordered two, along with the Roller Shaft, and a replacement belt (I assumed that would eventually need to be replaced so why not now).
No need for me to repeat the excellent reviews/instructions already on this site. Basically, it was an easy job that took about 2 hours, mostly because I took the time to clean every nook and cranny I could find.
Once I assembled it back up, the shriek was gone but the rumble noise was still there. I now realize that the blower wheel must have a worn out d-hole that mates with the motor shaft. So, I will have to order that part, get it installed and I am confident that I will have a "new" machine once that is in place.