MDG21PDAGW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

We could not find directions for the brand that we have. First we took the back off, which we did not need to do.
lift the top of the dryer, remove the front remove drum. Place belt on front of motor, wrap double belt around support on bottom of dryer, open the remaining belt and stretch around drum. Hold drum in place, replace front and top.
Need at least 2 people, not at all intuitive.

Others have described how to remove 4 screws and remove the front panel of the dryer. The problem I saw is that some screws broke off and fell inside while others remained on the separated baffle. The old screws that I found were 1 1/4 inch. The parts manual indicates a replacement screw that is 1 inch long and a number 10 width. One set of holes for the baffles has slotted holes. It appears that wear in the paint indicates movement before breaking off. My solution to the slotted holes was to use washers on the screws and to tighten the screws in the position where any force was not going to move the screws to the center position of the slots. The force of the separation caused the slotted holes to expand.

Removed power and front panel, removed broken latch, pushed in new latch and replaced the front panel and power. Done

AS it turned out the problem was not the igniter but the timer of which we figured out how to force it to work but now we will be ordering the part from your great company.
Thanks for everything.
Carolyn Richrath

I took out the old worn out part and replaced with the one I order.

Replaced igniter, then the two coils on the gas valve. I'm not sure which actually fixed the problem as I was not testing the repair correctly. I needed to attempt to dry an actual load of wet clothes.

Remove front door and remove Old Igniter and Installed new Igniter that fix the problem.

Replace the igniter. Access thru small door in front of dryer. Loosen screw securing igniter, slide igniter toward back of dryer to free it from screw, disconnect wiring at plastic connector and remove unit from dryer. Reverse for installation.

Sent package back was obviously the wrong part sent . Was a small electronic part and wha t was needed a burner tube . Thanks anyways went elsewhere and no problem getting part and installing.

I unscrewed the door catch and pried out with some resistance the strike part. Screwed in the catch and pushed in the strike. Closed door. Voila!! Back in business with assurance.

First thing to do. . . . Unplug the machine. After that, remove the top 2 screws from the cover from between the washing machine and the dryer and remove cover. Then remove the 2 screws from the top of the front dryer cabinet, pull front cover out slightly and gently let it lay forward. From this point, you can look in and see the drum rollers. Behind the rollers on the roller shaft is a 1/2" nut. Use a 1/2" gearwrench to remove the nut, and pull the shaft with roller attached out forward. Use snap ring pliers to remove snap ring, take off old roller with bushings, and replace with new. To re-install shaft with new roller, you will have to lift the drum slightly to give yourself enough room. Re-assemble the front of machine (note: be careful of the wiring on the control panel, as some connectors may have pulled loose. Make sure they are all connected before replacing front of machine). Plug machine in and test it out. While you have the machine open, use a good vacuum cleaner and remove the lint that you will find inside the machine. Depending on how old the machine is, you should find quite a bit.

Removed the door then removed front panel then removed 8 screws that held the drum in. At this point reached in and removed the snap ring on the wheels and replaced the washers and wheels. Then reassembled it.

first, i removed two screws at the bottom of front panel. then lifted from the bottom removing it. next, removed drum surround and drum. next , removed right roller and roller shaft. then installed new shaft, slide roller back on shaft. next reinstalled drum, drum surround and front panel. Now so quiet you can hardly hear it run, also my sister says it drys much faster.

Unplug unit turn off gas, remove only bottom front panel first tried radient flame sensor was not the problem it was the coils which were infront easy to acess with small screw driver remove two prong coil and replaced then the three pronged coil being sure to line them back before tigtening left off cover and watched for ignition once it turned on and ran replaced cover and done.

i took off the door and the front of the drum and removed the drum. I removed the locking clip from idler pully and replaced and lubricated the shaft and slid the new idler pully on. I hung the belt over the back and put the drum back in and aligned the belt and turned by hand to get the belt in the correct position. Belt came off a couple of times because i think the belt was twisted. installed the front panel and the door, plugged the cord in and started it up and it was perfect.