MLG23PDFGW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

First thing to do. . . . Unplug the machine. After that, remove the top 2 screws from the cover from between the washing machine and the dryer and remove cover. Then remove the 2 screws from the top of the front dryer cabinet, pull front cover out slightly and gently let it lay forward. From this point, you can look in and see the drum rollers. Behind the rollers on the roller shaft is a 1/2" nut. Use a 1/2" gearwrench to remove the nut, and pull the shaft with roller attached out forward. Use snap ring pliers to remove snap ring, take off old roller with bushings, and replace with new. To re-install shaft with new roller, you will have to lift the drum slightly to give yourself enough room. Re-assemble the front of machine (note: be careful of the wiring on the control panel, as some connectors may have pulled loose. Make sure they are all connected before replacing front of machine). Plug machine in and test it out. While you have the machine open, use a good vacuum cleaner and remove the lint that you will find inside the machine. Depending on how old the machine is, you should find quite a bit.

First I removed the two screws on the front panel that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3" and disconnected the two wires. Find out the roller broken. Place an order with Partselect from friend recommendation. Fast delivery, replace the broken roller, reverse the process and test the sound of the dryer. Very satisfied with the parts. Thanks!

repairmen said to buy a new dryer! or replace the motor! DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT IT!

It was the spring washer that was rubbing against the metal that was causing the very loud noise. The fiber washer that is used on the shaft on both sides of the roller had worn though and allowed the metal-metal contact. The fiber washer wore out! The fiber washers are very cheap!!!! in comparison to a motor or new dryer!


The drum rollers that support the rotating drum eventually wear out the fiber washer.
UNPLUG THE DRYER, DISCONNECT THE VENT
Remove the two screws on the lower front of the dryer panel, probably after you have tilted the unit backward. Remove the front panel by tilting out the bottom as there are two clips at the top. AFTER DOCUMENTING the CONNECTIONS - Disconnect the wires from the switch which is mounted on the front panel.
Carefully put the dryer on its back - be careful of the dryer vent to avoid damaging your floor or dryer vent!
Carefully pull the dryer drum up out of the dryer - as this is done the belt which moves the drum will fall away from the drum. I suggest before you remove the drum to eyeball the way the belt is tensioned and wrapped around the motor driveshaft, guard and tensioner. This will be the most difficult part of reassembling the machine. Some visual understand, maybe even pictures will help you later to get it installed correctly back into proper position... and it is NOT intuitive!
Once the drum is removed, the rollers are accessible. Rotate each and find the squeaker!
I recommend you replace the fiber washer on both, even though only one may be squeaking at this point (the other will be close to being worn out as well!).
I will not document the replacement of these parts as the assembly seems well documented elsewhere. I suggest you remain using the spring washer if there - as the after factory replacements do not seem to provide spring washers.
I would also suggest replacing the dryer drum belt, it is worn, after this many years, and putting in a new one will keep the dryer running for many more years. KNOWLEDGE IS POWER - USE IT

I've had this dryer since it was new It's over 25 years old. and it started to make a high pitch squealing sound when in use. Decided it's time to repair it. a new one is very expensive. So I ordered the parts from this site. When the parts arrived they where Inspected for fit, function and finish. So I proceeded with doing the repair myself. Short Phillips screw driver to remove the two sheet metal screws at the bottom front panel. tilted the panel from the bottom outward and removed it from the main tumbler cabinet. labeled the door switch wires one was yellow & one white. so I would not reinstall them incorrectly upon assembly. removed the front panel. set it aside. then removed the bulkhead panel 5/16" screw in each corner. removed that and set it aside. and there she was, the tumbler. I pulled the tensioner up to loosen the belt, and removed it. then grabbed the tumbler from the inside top slightly picked it upward and slid it out of the cabinet exposing the two rollers and axles one on each side that it sits on. at that point I noticed the drive belt was frayed and slightly worn. came back in the house and got on line ordered a new one from Parts Select it showed up a day later and a perfect match. the rollers are held in place by snap rings at the end of the axles. squeeze them they come off real easy, and on the back side there's a 14mm hex head nut. box wrench works good here to loosen the nut and remove the axles. the original washers are metallic and worn badly, they where making the high pitched squealing sound when they rotated so they came off and where replaced by the ones in the new roller kit and lubed with graphite not oil or grease. Graphite is dry and does not collect all the dirt and debris. put the new washers, new rollers & snap rings back on the axles grooves on the end, hand spun them and they where ready to roll. took the new belt placed it around the tumbler over the exact witness marks that where there so it would line up and lifted the tumbler back into the cabinet aligned the new belt over the motor pulley and tensioner lining it up exactly on the witness marks left by the old belt. slowly slid the tumbler back on to the new rollers rotated the tumbler a couple rotations clockwise to set the belt put the bulkhead back on the front with 5/16" sheet metal screws. in 4 corners, reinstalled the from panel along with the door switch wires and it was done. now the moment of truth. plug the machine in and turn it on!. Bingo! it runs so well you don't know it's even running. after this repair the machine performs even better. it actually takes LESS time for clothes to dry! AJS

I followed the repair videos which were very helpful and made the job easy to do. Anyone of average handyman skills should be able to perform the repair without difficulty.

Replaced the roller

Watched video then followed directions in the package. Installation wasn't difficult but it would have been easier if I had a set of snap ring pliers (cheep at Harbor Freight). I was surprised by the amount of lint buildup. I feel much safer now that everything is nice and clean. Clean and quiet, worth the time to make the repair.

looked at video on your web site my wife and I decided to try it ourselves we are 70 and 71 And I am in a wheelchair just had surgery so we ordered parts. received parts looked at repair video a couple of times and went for it. during process we had some moments of frustration but we went back to video. end result, screech is gone. could not have done it with out video thanks.

As per video instructions we took off front and removed drum. We only changed one of the roller support wheel as I could not find any information as to how many I need for my type dryer and parts diagram was deceptive. Showed only one drum support roller.

I re-assembled, checked felts, and wear blocks,(good condition). I cleaned lint, removed coins from baffles, corrected several dents(minor), double checked wire condition and routing (good), finished re-installation, checked balance . all was good, and ran two loads of laundry. very quiet! Thanks

The hardest part was figuring out how to access the dryer mechanism. This Amana dryer has a lower front panel that is removed and not the top. There are few instructions available for this configuration. Then the part locations do not resemble the video instructions for trouble shooting. I discovered the broken part because when fiddling with the wire connections the metal tab disconnected due to fatigue or corrosion. Removing, identifying and replacing the flame sensor was quite simple. The dryer now works as before. The dryer is 23 years old. The most time in this repair was spent figuring out how to disassemble and identify a different configuration than in the videos.

Replaced high limit sensor, which tested as bad, hence replaced
Replaced both solinoids as one tested bad. Best to replace both
Tested flame sensor, was good
Igniter, functioning properly
Gas delivery good burner lighting
Most significantly, Cleaned 25’ verticals dryer vent with drill driven brush. Incredibly dirty. Suspect this was a huge contributing factor in dryer heating issues. 17 years of dryer usage resulted in significant lint buildup in vent.
Check your vent thoroughly!!
Dryer heating again

Read the instructions included with the parts, removed the 2 screws on the front of the dryer. Removed a couple of wire connections and 4 screws that held the drum in place. Moved the drum enough to have access to the roller supports. I removed the nut from the back of the supports with a 1/2" wrench. Placed the new supports on the old support pins and reinstalled them. Put it all back together. Probably the most difficult task was getting the drive belt back on the drum correctly. I was done in just over 1 hour.

followed your instructions and it was easy.Great help.

Followed directions provided in video which are very clear and helpful. Took your expert about 15 - 20 minutes, but in reality it takes about an 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 hours which included cleaning out the whole cabinet area. Did not need the idler arm but did not want to find out after taking everything apart that a new one was needed.Also suggest drawing a sketch of how the belt goes around the drum,idler and motor for reference when reinstalling.