BDG810 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I followed the instructions with the new parts. Thank you very much for including these tips.

When the dryer stopped working, I checked the two switches to see if they were good. The start button checked out OK but the switch on the door read bad. Ordered the part with the part number and put on when it arrived. Just a matter of disconnecting and reconnecting three wires. Very simple

I removed two screws from the bottom panel,pulled bottom out, and lifted front panel off. Took pliers to back of the old latch to compress the expansion tabs, squeezed and removed. Pushed new one in untill it went through metal backing plate and snapped in place. Replaced the cover and screws. Opened door and took out two screws on the edge and one for the knob. Spread out door halves,used pliers to work out other latch part. Pressed in new part and reassembled. Works great for another twenty years!

easily pried out the old catch. Removed one screw from the door, with pliers pushed the old striker out. Easily snapped the new catch and striker in place, then replaced the screw in the door. Done in about 5 minutes.

Sooooooo easy! Ordered the part on-line and it arrived the very next day! Watched the 'how to' video on-line and the fix was a breeze. Bought my Maytag dryer back in 1989 and this is the only problem it's had. For a repair just under $5.00 plus shipping? I'll take it!

I pried out the old one slightly and grabbed it with pliers. Quite possibly the metal catch dropped into the door section, but no problem. I pushed the new one into place with the side of the pliers. Probably 3 minutes time.

Installing the new switch was a snap. With the dryer unplugged, open the top using a putty knife to release the 2 clips - one on each side. Lift the top and support it to stay open. Next, note the wire color and location for each of the 3 wires. Remove each wire from its prong on the bad switch by gripping the connector with pliers and pulling off. Next remove the bad switch by squeezing the tabs on the sides of the switch to release it. The switch removes to the front of the dryer. Install the new switch in the same method and reconnect the wires as before making sure the colors go back on the same prongs. I had to replace one of the connectors with a larger one (that came with the switch) since one of the prongs on the new switch was larger than the orginal (bad) switch. To do this, I cut the old connector off, stripped the end of the wire, and crimpted on the new connector. I had to be careful not to waste too much wire since there was very little slack to work with.

Too simple to describe.

The older latch was removed and the new one was inserted in to the same opening. It was great! We had the new latch within a couple of days after ordering the part. This worked out really well. Thanks!!

The dryer latch had fallen into the dryer door itself and the door no longer stayed latched shut. I purchsed a replacement latch and simply popped it into the hole. No tools! I did leave the old latch to rattle around inside the door whenever it opens though.

Used nut driver to remove front cover/door assembly. Used screwdriver to pry broken latch receiver out of front cover. Snapped new latch receiver in cover. Old striker/latch nub retained. Reattached cover/door assembly.

Researched the common problem with "dryer not turning on", and tested the top three problems. Removed the dryer front casing and door, unbolted front dryer plate. Used a volt meter on two of the temp gauges, which were fine. Removed the upper back plate of the dryer to the wiring for the knobs and buttons. Used the volt meter on the dryer start button, which was also fine. Went back around to the front and removed the door switch. Tested it with the volt meter and bingo. Replaced that part, dryer works like normal.

The video that this website provided made the replacement of the door latch a breeze. Thank you for the instruction. Mary.

easy