GDE482 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

If I had waited until I reviewed the pack-up date that came with the part, the disassembly would have gone much faster. The part arrived in record time, several days before anticipated. Outstanding website, parts and repair experience!

Found step by step instructions on your website, they were posted by another do-it-yourselfer. The exact make of dryer that I have, and the drawings with part numbers listed was quite helpful. The bad motor came out easy enough and the new one was just like the old so it fit right into place. Strung a new belt around the tumbler drum and dryer is just like NEW. Thank you so much. Probably saved a couple hundred dollars.

Removed the front panel by removing two front screws. Removed screws from front panel holding tumbler drum. Cleaned interior with a vacuum cleaner. (dryer is at least 16 years old). Removed what was left of rivets on damaged glides with a drill, and cleaned area well. Attached new glides with rivet gun, and also applied glue to make glide and cork more secure. Replaced belts, and decided to reverse drum due to damage to drum from allowing glides to deteriorate to the point of putting scratches on the drum itself, allowing the new glides to rest on drum where there was no damage at all. This process was easy, and fast. We did make one error however, in not noticing that with our model, that there were TWO glides to be replaced. Luckily a local repair shop had one more glide so the job could be done the same day. The dryer sounds like it did when it was brand new. Very quiet! The comments from other home repairs helped very much in clairifying any possible errors. Fast delivery of parts, and the extra help was great. Thanks!

No big deal about replacing a lint filter , take the old one out and put the new one in.

I removed the old element and replaced it. There were only two screw to deal with once I had the front panel off of the dryer. The electrical hookups were easy and the part I got fit exactly like the old part. I had to work at it a bit to get the back end to fit into the exhaust hose, but once that was taken care of this was one of the easiest appliance repairs ever. I agree with the repair man that first told me to fix it, these old machines are worth a few dollars to keep running. They work great!

After replacing the cycling thermostat failed to fix the problem, I jumped the Dampness sensor, overtemp sensor and flame sensor - no change, flame went out after 15 to 30 seconds. Ordered the replacement coils for the gas control and reconnected all sensors: solved!

No manual on this so had to remove about 12 screws to figger out disassembly,after locating the right ones[front]the job was easy.Remove front plate,remove drum bearing,remove blower front cover,remove snap ring,remove broken fan,clean fan shaft,slide new fan onto shaft[there is a flat in the bore of new fan]instal fan retainer on stub of fan,reinstal snap ring,reinstal the rest of the parts,test drive system[all sat]The part was exactly as ordered,thanks,Jim Thompson

Took it apart according to the videos, replaced about all moving parts (almost). Put it back together and still made noise. It turned out to be the blower wheel. Ordered a new blower wheel and installed it. Works great and has mostly all new parts. The website was great!!

Replaced all the parts per the very good video provided on the website.
I recommend watching the video very closely several times. BE SURE THE BELT IS NOT IN THE DRUM'S GROOVE. The video mentions this very very briefly; I caught it on my third viewing. If your belt is not the correct location, it may still turn the drum for you - and eat the belt up in about an hour.

I followed the videos on your website, but had to clean 30 years of dust and lint out in the process. Cleaning took the longest time.

The 2 screws that hold the front cover to the dryer was hard to see because they are facing down.
After the 2 front screws were removed from the dryer, the heater was easily accessed. All I had to do was to remove the old heater assembly and transfer the limit sensor and wire on the assembly. The hardest part to the repair was fitting the rear end of the heater assembly to the back duct. I just bent the edges to conform to the rear duct where they mate together. Once I got the heater to line up, the rest was easy. Remember to use a shop vac to clean up the inside of the dryer since you have it all opened up. You'll be amazed at what you will find!
My dryer was up and running in no time and my wife was happy and so was I that we didn't have to buy a new dryer!!!

I opened the back acess panel and started the dryer. Looking at the motor and idler pulleys it was obvious by the frequency of the squealing noise that it was coming from the idler pulley.
I pulled the retainer clip and tension spring from the idler pulley and removed it. I applied some grease to the shaft and reinstalled the idler pulley.
The squeal was gone confirming that the pulley bushing was dry. I ordered the new idler pulley and when it arrived the next day I cleaned the grease off of the shaft and installed the new idler pulley. Problem solved.

Insure the double pole breaker in the breaker box is functioning properly.

Using a "Fix it Yourself book" and following a simple test method (measuring ohms) to determine if heating element or if it could be a heat sensor or something else was bad. Going slow the heating element was ID'd to be the problem in about one hour. Searched on line and found your site, ordered the part and in 1 day had the part. It took about an hour to install. Wife is very happy. Overall an easy task. Thanks much.

1. Removed two screws from front panel.
2. Removed panel.
3. Removed four bolts off tumbler face.
4. Removed face.
5. Removed drum and belt.
6. Vacuumed.
7. Replaced idler spring assembly.
8. Replaced drum.
9. Replaced belt.
10. Rotated drum to make sure belt was properly seated.
11. Replaced tumbler face.
12. Replaced front panel.