MDE16PDAZW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I followed the Part Select tutorial on Instant Repairman and retrieved the missing screws at the base of the dryer as described in the tutorial and after trying to reassemble the original baffle notice the baffle screw holes were stripped. I decided to fill the holes with a strong glue before reinserting the screw to temporarily keep the machine running until the new baffle arrived as it was just ordered the night before. When the new baffle arrived I decided to hold onto it as a spare if or when the original baffle broke off again.

I removed the front of the dryer and the drum support plate. I drilled out the old rivets and installed the Glides with the enclose rivets. The Glides came loose in a few days! The holes in the glides are larger than in the old Glides. I disassembled the dryer again and reassembled with my rivets. This time I held the rivet gun inside the perimeter of the dryer so that the head of the rivet is opposite the initial installation. So far, so good, except the dryer still squeaks. The idler pulley is now the culprit. White grease burned up. I reassembled with high temperature grease. If that does not work, I will need another idler pulley. The journal looks very worn. the dryer is 30+ years old.

I watched Steve the repairman on u tube then opened up the front of the dryer and noticed the part in my dryer was a little different than the one on the video. So I called in and I was reassured it was what I wanted. When I got the replacement part and before I removed the old part I took pictures of the wiring noticing the wires where changed from left to right I had to make up one of the 12 gauge wires and connectors with parts from the hardware store and the new part was shorter than the old part, but the machine all ready had screw holes where I needed them. I looked at my photos and wired the new part the same way I took the wires off the old part and put it back together and it works like new! saved money! the local guy is $150 to show up and start the clock. I also fixed the blower,EASY!

Unplug the dryer and pull it away from the wall so front and back can be accessed. Remove front panel. Remove front drum support. Remove rear access panel. Disengage drive belt from idler wheel. Make careful note of course of belt and which side is "outward". Remove drum through front. Remove Rollers using circlip pliers. Remove nuts behind shafts. Remove shafts. Clean-up area and parts before re-install.

Install new Shafts and nuts. Grease shafts. Install new Rollers, washers and clips. Drape drive belt over drum while reinstalling from front. Remount drive belt over drive and idler pullies from the rear access. During this step it helps to have a helper to position the belt around the drum in correct fore/aft position, lying flat and without twists, smooth side against drum. Install front drom support. Rotate drum to seat belt before closing up. Install rear panel cover. Install Front panel. Plug it in and turn it on for a test.

Removed front panel and tumbler, replaced roller axle,
wheel, and front glides. Anybody can do this.

Removed four screws from the door hinges and front panel. Removed the front panel by pulling forward from the top and found two screws. The part does not come with screws which are #10 x 1 and 1/4" long hex head sheet metal screws. I believe that the screw size is critical as the part may break loose again if the screws width is too large or small for the predrilled holes in the baffle. One set of holes in the drum had slotted screw holes which would allow for installing the baffle with the screws partially installed in the baffle. I would recommend washers for that installation. Check all three baffles to ensure that all screws are tight.

By watching a video I disassembled the front and took the dryer tub out and replace the two rollers and it took about 60 minute.

Really easy to replace. All I had to do was remove the screws on the hinges and two on the other side. Used a nut driver to remove the brackets that hold the lid down. Secured the lid open and used the nut driver to remove the screws that hold the baffel son (two on each) and replace the baffel and secure with the screws. Reversed the the process and was drying clothes my first load of clothes in around 30 to 40 minutes. Process is really easy and I was able to do it by myself

take screws out of front of dryer, pull front off to expose drum and replace baffle

Removed Dryer Door and front face of dryer, total of 4 screws, turn dryer drum to position broken baffle screws, remove screws, install new baffle, attach front face of dryer and reattach dryer door. Time 15-30 min. total. Real easy. Thank You PartSelect. Maytag told me my part was no longer available, but I fold it at PartSelect.com.

Others have described how to remove 4 screws and remove the front panel of the dryer. The problem I saw is that some screws broke off and fell inside while others remained on the separated baffle. The old screws that I found were 1 1/4 inch. The parts manual indicates a replacement screw that is 1 inch long and a number 10 width. One set of holes for the baffles has slotted holes. It appears that wear in the paint indicates movement before breaking off. My solution to the slotted holes was to use washers on the screws and to tighten the screws in the position where any force was not going to move the screws to the center position of the slots. The force of the separation caused the slotted holes to expand.

We could not find directions for the brand that we have. First we took the back off, which we did not need to do.
lift the top of the dryer, remove the front remove drum. Place belt on front of motor, wrap double belt around support on bottom of dryer, open the remaining belt and stretch around drum. Hold drum in place, replace front and top.
Need at least 2 people, not at all intuitive.

replaced

The video was excellent and made for an easy repair. Would highly recommend.

Unscrewed door and front panel. Pulled and took the, off. Used standing flashlight to illuminate the area underneath the dryer barrel. Tried various tools to take out broken plastic remnants. Then, used small electric nutdriver to screw the tall baffle into place with newly purchased metal screws. Was a bit hard to reach and tight but finally worked once I found an appropriate tool and top.